Pressure tested...No. I have tested for combustion leaks, and it was negative.
Calling all Evan's Waterless Coolant users
- Thread starter Mike McGuire
- Start date
Fan is turning the right way. New aftermarket clutch fan, water pump, fuel pump, stock shroud, radiator, new plugs and points, timed, tested for combustion leaks, burped (that helped)..... I wonder if it is running too lean..??
Or if I need to burp it even more...
It turns over easy enough, so not excessive mechanical resistance. I also wonder if the tranny is weak and that could be causing the engine to work more...no, on second thought, it puts along too easy, there is not too much resistance..
If the cooling system doesn't hold pressure, the engine WILL overheat.
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
You need to verify what the operating temp actually is. I changed the guage sender on the Admiral because the guage was reading hot, although there were no other signs of overheating....... No change.
I bought an electric aftermarket guage at Carlisle and installed it. Now shows a steady 190 degrees, 200 when towing.
I bought an electric aftermarket guage at Carlisle and installed it. Now shows a steady 190 degrees, 200 when towing.
I agree that I definitely have a problem, just can't find it. The EWC is a band-aid. What other reasonable options do I have?
Thanks. I'll add it to my list.
Operating temperature is unstable. It climbs..
Wil: I believe, at one point, the OP did say the radiator boiled over. If that is so, I think he is looking at a temp well above 212 degrees.
saylor
Senior Member
got to do a leakdown test next...
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
This could be a problem, any carburetor changes from stock. The other suggestion might be to just time it by ear or vacuum, turn up the timing till it starts idling poorly then back off and check it with a light to stay below ~14° btdc on a big block and below 12° btdc on a small block. How do the plugs look? Don't go by factory gauge. The one in my car is wrong internally it will be by H on a 60° day I have changed everything else besides the gauge itself sending unit, engine, water pump, thermostat, radiator, fan, nothing changed guage. Like I said earlier 90+ day idling and top radiator hose was 216 guage was plastered up at H. Bottom hose was 156 so I was getting a 60° drop on a almost 100° day.
If the car was that lean you should feel some surging at steady state cruise.
yes.
leakdown... going to have to read up on that one..
saylor
Senior Member
basically an air pump hooked to a radiator cap, pump that sucker up to about 20psi and go make a sammich.
if that needle moved off of 20psi, you have leaky somewhere.
hope its not a head.
if that needle moved off of 20psi, you have leaky somewhere.
hope its not a head.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I've seen this on a few occasions..
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
I had a similar problem years ago with my Dakota. The original plastic rad sprung a leak so I replaced it with a aftermarket rad. The overheating continued. I chased it for awile, new therm, hoses, water pump, etc, and decided it had to be the replacement rad. Turns out it was a 6 cyl rad, I had a 318. They looked just alike. We replaced the radiator and all was well.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
What engine? What type of fan, flex, clutch?
LatPeahy
Active Member
Y'all aren't going to like hearing this but heard something that blew my mind. Had a conversation with a DD guy once that said the only motor he runs is a 440 and never uses a radiator
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Air-cooled 440, huh? Okee-dokie...
Was it the Hemi 440 or the /8 440?
Was it the Hemi 440 or the /8 440?
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
Maybe crank the torsion bars down a bit and lower the front. Running downhill might help.
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