carb gets rich when closing the throttle on hw

You should really ck the balancer like Dave suggested, If you had 40 degrees at idle plus dist advance it should spark knock under load that would be too much timing
 
Yeah, i got a pretty good list from you guys. I have to get the 1 1/4 socket this week and then ill be on it!
 
I need a 2 3/4" socket 1" drive non-impact if anybody happens to have one they know they are never going to use and want to part with, just putting that out there since sockets came up.
 
Alright, did the TDC test. The harmonic balancer did not slip. TDC lines up with the "0" mark on the timing cover.

Next time i start it up and have the engine warm ill do the vacuum tuning. But I remember doing thst before and i ended up even more advanced, wanna say it was like...28 or so degrees.
 
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I would set the initial timing at 12 BTDC and get the rest from the dist for a total of about 36 all in by 3000 RPM. is the motor stock or a performance rebuild? stock usually can take more timing because of poor compression ratios
 
Well, i assume the motor has 100,000 miles on it.... idk what was done to it other than the intake and carb. I think its got a mild cam but not sure about specs. My concern with 12° is, that i loose too much vacuum and idle speed and i have to open the throttle too much for idle...
 
So much work!!!
I just keep advancing the timing up to the point it would ping under acceleration and be hard starting when hot.
No timing light. No vacuum gauge.

The downside: I'm setting the timing to the current conditions of the rest of the engine and something elsewhere may not be 100% perfect.

But if it runs smooth, then...........
 
Ok so, i checked the totat timing at 2500rpm. It was 34° and idle timing was at 20°. I bumped it up 2° and the idle is way more smoothand stable now. I think i will leave at this and see how it behaves for now... i have read that for a performance cam, thats not too far off.
 
Big thing is the starting and the pinging. If you're not having issues with either it shouldn't hurt to run it. Normally I like to run around 15-18° initial, another 18-22° centrifugal with it all in around 3K, and the vacuum advance plugged into a ported vaccum source. In terms of stockish-to-mild street car that covers 80-90% of them.
 
I agree if it has no starting and pinging/knocking issues give it what it wants, nothing wrong with smooth idle and running strong that allows the throttle plates to close down further closing transfer slots and eliminating any signal in the venturis therefore not pulling any fuel over on deceleration which is were this thread started.
 
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