Hello, everyone. New to this site, but not to this vehicle. In the family since new. Hasn't seen much action in the last few years. Sainted mechanic/friend of 20 years passed and I've been in mourning since. Driven it rarely of late. COVID hasn't helped. Have a new mechanic, who seems good. Will rebuild the carb if needed. Monaco stumbles now on acceleration and will stall if I'm not careful. He suspects it could be the accelerator pump in the carb, which 'feels' right to me. Challenge is that unlike just about everything else I never purchased a spare carb when these were much easier to find. Original was Carter 4423S. Looking now at aftermarkets. Working closely with my new mechanic. Have read about the Uremco 5-559 - which certainly reads as a bolt-on, out-of-the box fit. Photo on Uremco's site certainly matches the unit on the care - last changed 23(!) years ago; tag is gone. I have the one it replaced, which does still have that 4423S tag. Any thoughts about this Uremco, or the AutoLine C652? I found the receipt from that 1998 replacement which listed the reman as "CR CH216C," but darned if I can figure out that code. Also, any views on reman kits or Uremco's reman service? All thoughts welcomed, with thanks.
Carburetor for '68 Monaco
- Thread starter EFinMD
- Start date
If all that is wrong is a bad accelerator pump, put a kit in the carb and drive it, no need to spring for a new carb. Uremco is a long time rebuilder of vintage carbs but I probably would not go that route unless the throttle plate is worn out or there is another serious defect with your current unit. As a matter of principle, most rebuilt carbs sold thru Auto-Bone are a POS, I won't use them.
Dave
Dave
Welcome! Does the accel pump "pump" when the throttle is openned manually? The Carter BBD 1.5" (throttle bore size is 1.56" each) is a simple carb to rebuild. A quality kit to rebuild it with should be available somewhere. I suspect the accel pump has shrunk or similar. If the car has sat a lot, then a new fuel pump and filter would be advisable, too.
Reason is that even with the ethanol-resistant diaphram material, if it should dry out, then it allegedly becomes brittle and can fail/leak.
Unless there are some other issues with the carb, no real need to spend well past $100.00 for a reman carb when yours can be rebuilt. IF your new mechanic can rebuild it.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Reason is that even with the ethanol-resistant diaphram material, if it should dry out, then it allegedly becomes brittle and can fail/leak.
Unless there are some other issues with the carb, no real need to spend well past $100.00 for a reman carb when yours can be rebuilt. IF your new mechanic can rebuild it.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Thanks, Dave. Trying to figure this out while I have too much else going on. I know I can't tackle this myself. The carb may have other issues. Not sure what that little vent is at the top, but some gas may have let out there at one point. Really uncertain as to my best course. But you probably guess that.
That is a bowl vent and if it is puking fuel out of there you probably have a piece of crud under the seat for the needle valve.
Dave
All good thoughts. Car has sat a lot. Too much, and that's been my fault. Fuel pump isn't all that old but I have one if needed and a fuel filter is a given. There was a time when I had nothing but trouble with carbs, mostly in the 1980s. I trusted folks when I should have asked more questions. Checked my records. Once had someone put in a BBD-6134 - which was meant for trucks! Part of me is inclined to work backwards. Get the Uremco reman and then have the one I have rebuilt. As for the one I have, there's less hesitation when I accelerate while parked or if I move the throttle manually. It's when I drive it and accelerate slowly that the car will either come close to stalling or stall.
It isn't puking fuel. But there was a fair bit of grime around the vent. I'll post a few photos I took earlier. Maybe they'll mean something. Maybe not.
There is a small puddle of fuel below the fuel line connection, probably a bad gasket between the fitting and the carb body, Carb should be taken off and soaked in carb cleaner, disassembled and a rebuild kit installed. Modern ethanol blend fuels pick up moisture and leave a lot of residue as the fuel evaporates. These fuels also eat up the leather accelerator pumps found in these older carbs and corrode the lead seams on the carb floats. I think this carb, once cleaned up will be good with a new float and kit.
Dave
Dave
EurekaSevven
Active Member
I would say, if you're feeling adventurous, take the carb apart and put it in some acidic soaking agent for 30 minutes or so and see how it cleans up. Reassemble with a new kit, accelerator pump, and look at the specifications if any of the carb's linkages or choke equipment needs adjusting. If you can, also adjust the idle mixture, since that looks like the BBD design that had the blocked off idle screws - those were set lean for emissions purposes.
Attached the PDF I used for looking over to see if my adjustments were right on the new BBD I bought, the old carb I had was junk.
Attached the PDF I used for looking over to see if my adjustments were right on the new BBD I bought, the old carb I had was junk.
Thanks. He made a similar point about ethanol.
EurekaSevven
Active Member
For whatever reason, I had to use eBay to find the right one, RockAuto didn't have the one I bought a while back. Looked like this.
Carter BBD 2B Carburetor Repair Kit Chrysler Dodge Plymouth Marine 15479 | eBay
Carter BBD 2B Carburetor Repair Kit Chrysler Dodge Plymouth Marine 15479 | eBay
Most of the Carter BBD 1.5 carburetors have the same gaskets in them. Maybe even a few more gaskets than you really need for your carb. So one kit part number will cover the vast majority of carb numbers. What usually made the carburetors specific to an application was the fuel calibrations in them, by observation.
The "tag" was an easy to see ID for the carb at the engine plant, but the same number should be stamped into the base of the carb, near where the base gasket seals against it.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
The "tag" was an easy to see ID for the carb at the engine plant, but the same number should be stamped into the base of the carb, near where the base gasket seals against it.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
What if there's no stamp?
Found that here - 15479B - https://www.stockwiseauto.com/walke...MI4py6oNP48wIV1N7ICh0tIwBPEAYYAyABEgJeAPD_BwE
EurekaSevven
Active Member
That one looks like it'll work fine.
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