carter 2bbl OEM replacement PN# 5-599 manual or vaccuum choke ?

[theos911]

Mine doesn't change with/without the air cleaner. Maybe your filter is packed and it was making it run richer? Were you doing your adjustments with the choke fully open?

 

[saylor]

well, no luck today :/

I got it up to temp, and all the fuel went away. I undid the gas cap hoping to watch it come gurgling back, but alas, it did not.

I have it sort of idling, I can get out off the pedal and it will lope and stay running, but its all shaky and not smooth. until I have no gas. then it really surges.

I sort of kept an eye on my temp guage, at 160 I had fuel. when it was up around 190, I had no fuel.

if I wait 3 hours for it to cool off, the fuel filter will be totally full again. with the car off and sitting. at least that's how it was this morning.

wth?

how come I cant get some fuel flow at operating temp?

 

[saylor]

so i just went and looked. the fuel filter is about 1/4 full,, for sure has fuel in it again. i can only hope the new fuel pump pushrod helps. if it doesnt help, im not sure what else to do

 

[saylor]

I went out there again because im in a state of depression, and the fuel filter is almost totally full now. it looks like pee or mtn dew in there, , its really yellow colored. ive changed everything from the hard line at the frame forward. new rubber line to pump, new pump, new line from pump to carb, new filter, new carb. ill be trying a new pump pushrod this week, as soon as it gets here.

I haven't tried to blow air from the hard line backwards out the tank. haven't messed with the tank filter or anything like that. I don't see how any of that stuff would work when the motor is cold, but not when the motor is hot... how would the motor and/or operating temprature affect anything back there?

help!

 

[saylor]

I have the original snorkel air cover. it revved up so much I almost want a more free-flowing setup...the engine wants to breathe.

im guessing the choke is open, it had a manual choke rig on a wire mounted to under the dash with a pull knob before.

the replacement carb has a vacuum pot thing on it with a line going to a carb port - I haven't touched it from how it was shipped to me.

 

[detmatt]

Your problem maybe sediment in the tank clogging the sock style filter on the end of the pick-up. When there's no suction the sediment relaxes and begins to float in the fuel, ad suction and the sediment heads for the sock again slowly reducing the fuel flow. I'm not saying this is what's happening in your case but I'd pull the sender out for inspection and while out get one of those telescoping magnet tools and take a few dips in the tank to see if anything comes out. Of course not all sediment will be magnetic so....

 

[saylor]

Your problem maybe sediment in the tank clogging the sock style filter on the end of the pick-up. When there's no suction the sediment relaxes and begins to float in the fuel, ad suction and the sediment heads for the sock again slowly reducing the fuel flow. I'm not saying this is what's happening in your case but I'd pull the sender out for inspection and while out get one of those telescoping magnet tools and take a few dips in the tank to see if anything comes out. Of course not all sediment will be magnetic so....

right on, worth a try. this will be my next test. I heard that the easy way to prove/disprove everything from the fuel line backwards is to unhook the gas line infeed from the tank at the fuel pump, and get a piece of fuel hose running from the fuel pump IN side to a 1 gallon gas can laying on the ground, so its a nice clean unrestricted mini gas tank. See results, if it runs OK, something is wrong with your lines going backwards to tank, or in the tank itself. If it still shows same problem, its a pump / pushrod, vaccuum / pinhole line leak, or heat issue up front.

 

[saylor]

i cant get this thing to idle well. ive never adjusted a carb before. tried the settings as it came from summit. no good. tried adjusting all day long, still no good. I don't have a vacuum gauge, was trying by ear and smell.

can yall help me identify this stuff in the pictures and discuss settings? Thanks !!

 

[theos911]

The two upper screws in the first photo are your idle RPM screws. The two in the next photo are your idle fuel mixture screws. Tighter is leaner; looser is richer. They aren't currently matching (and should be) so a good place to start would be to finger tighten both of them all the way and then loosen them both three turns and tune to suit.

The hose that should be going to your vaccum choke pulloff is currently going nowhere and probably leaking a bunch of vacuum. This is bad because your choke isn't going to pull off ...and because it is probably leaking a bunch of vacuum.

 

[saylor]

The two upper screws in the first photo are your idle RPM screws. The two in the next photo are your idle fuel mixture screws. Tighter is leaner; looser is richer. They aren't currently matching (and should be) so a good place to start would be to finger tighten both of them all the way and then loosen them both three turns and tune to suit.

The hose that should be going to your vaccum choke pulloff is currently going nowhere and probably leaking a bunch of vacuum. This is bad because your choke isn't going to pull off ...and because it is probably leaking a bunch of vacuum.

thanks! the mixture screws don't line up when both seated one is \ and one is -
this is a new carb from summit... should I send it back? I figured as long as they were both 'out' the same amount of turns id be good.
the choke connection is where the screw-plug is ...plugged on the vacuum side, the dangler off the choke is just a dangler, I think it has to suck in (vacuum) to do anything?
and I sucked on that line, and it pulled in..but pulling in did NOTHING with the butterfly valve.. its like backwards or something.. I don't understand it yet.

 

[saylor]

the choke pulls off or pulls on? should I just hook it back to vacuum ? the old one was manual on a wire... so I have no idea

 

[saylor]

so the choke plate is the butterfly valve? its wide open. that means no choke correct?

 

[theos911]

Normally the choke is completely closed while starting and once it actually starts the vacuum pull off lets it come off just enough to idle. After that you should have temperature or electric pulloff that slowly opens the choke the rest of the way. Wide open means choke is fully off. You may need to adjust your initial pulloff. The choke should fully close and then open a little bit with the vacuum. There should be a rod you can bend if it is out of adjustment. (Some old timer feel free to chime and correct me if I'm saying something wrong: this is my best attempt at articulating my possibly limited understanding.)

As for your mixture screws, if they don't match then ignore what I said about them matching and just keep them the same number of turns from fully seated. (Now, if it were my carb and the screws didn't line up right... my selective OCD would probably be off the charts.)

 

[saylor]

when im idling in park, then put it in gear, the idle speed drops. what lever or screw makes this drop happen? I get it to idle OK in park, then put it in gear and it feels like it wants to drive away pulling, then dies.

 

[theos911]

The idle drops because the torque converter puts a load on the engine. How does it die? Does it get slower and slower and then quit with a raw gas smell or does it get rougher and rougher and then go kaput. The first would be too rich, the second too lean.

 

[saylor]

I tightened down the carb to the manifold more, I guess I was letting in some air there, it surges a lot less.

when I put it in gear, it feels like it wants to go, like my foot is on the gas. it doesn't go slower, or rougher, no smell, it pulls like it wants to take off, then just dies.

 

[saylor]

I put the choke pulloff hose back on.
yesterday I was trying, and just kept turning the mix richer and richer, it never died. I ended up smogging out my house

 

[saylor]

on the 2 mixture screws in front,,,

are they a left side air/fuel and a right side air/fuel ?

or is the left side fuel amount , and the right side is air amount ? or vice versa?

 

[saylor]

well, update.
for the question above ^^ they are equal screws both need to be adjusted fuel/air mix. one is not fuel only and one is not air only, they are both air/fuel mix.

so anyways - I got a guy over to the house that knows more than I do.

he messed with the timing and carb mix and idle and everything, then he pops up and says ' somethings wrong with this carb, get another one'.

some things happened with the first carb they sent me - the port nipples both fell out and we had to cram them back in with Teflon, and you could hear them leaking. also - the throttle plate would not cover the transfer slots, even if you backed the idle screw all the way out, it wouldn't cover them. and on top of that, something was up with the idle feeders, like it was clogged or something.

so Summit sent me a replacement free of charge.

I bolted it on, set the mix screws to 1 1/2, and presto - running car. holds idle. everything.

 

[saylor]

I also ended up taking off the vacuum choke pull off and throwing it in the trash. I hooked up the manual choke wire, and it is the shiz - works perfectly.