Chads Yellow Polara thread, New dual exhaust, wheels on!Yee!

[Chad]

First Drive!!

 

[Chad]

What a tank! Everything feels great! It’s amazing how long 1st gear is. Everything is working fantastically minus the fuel gauge. Has a couple dings I noticed now that it’s washed. Just a quick wash at the DIY foaming brush car wash. Car needs some real attention inside and out. I’m going to condition the top now, install all the side trim, wipe out the inside, vacuum and clean glass, and I have a set of new wiper blades to install. I’m very excited. Tomorrow car is going for a new subtle dual exhaust. Needs it bad.

Also I have the front turn signal covers, they are being polished, and I’ll hit the tail lights and other plastic light covers as well.

I have lots of work to do, later when I wrap up I’ll post some more photos, videos, and I was curious if anybody saw the questions I posted last night. I figured out the vinyl top question, but regarding the others.... any insight?
Thanks gents

 

[Jon O.]

Lastly if you have a look at the engine bay you can see what I mean on the importance of cleaning and painting that monster A/C pump. Looks so much better, even though I cleaned up bay a lot, as well.

View attachment 198251


Wow, now that is a great job!

 

[Chad]

Wow the vinyl top came out beautiful. Lovin the green top. As I was told on this thread, I washed it twice with soapy warm water and a soft bristle brush. Then I cleaned it twice with Lexol Leather/ Vinyl cleaner. Lastly 2 coats of Meguiars vinyl protectant. It really soaked up the first coat, I’m sure it’ll soak up the second as well, so I’ll just continue applying it until it stops soaking it up and maintains its shine. I put the car on ramps to do another oil change, adjust the torsion bars (only slightly, maybe 1 to 1 1/5 full turns. I have experience with torsion bars on later model Chev pickups and SUV’s. I’m really excited to get the exhaust done. Right now the leak is hideous and sounds awful, down on power.
Lastly, when I went around a right hand medium speed turn last night I got an awful running type noise like a big chain was hitting the wheel. Once I straightened out it went right away. Anybody familiar with this? I thought perhaps it was Wheel or tire rub, but it looks as if the sway bar and torsion bracket might have been pulled on forward. I’ll look at it, but I was curious if anybody was knew exactly what it was or if it was a common issue.
More pics later!!! Here’s the top

 

[hemidart1]

nice

 

[Jon O.]

Wow the vinyl top came out beautiful. Lovin the green top. As I was told on this thread, I washed it twice with soapy warm water and a soft bristle brush. Then I cleaned it twice with Lexol Leather/ Vinyl cleaner. Lastly 2 coats of Meguiars vinyl protectant. It really soaked up the first coat, I’m sure it’ll soak up the second as well, so I’ll just continue applying it until it stops soaking it up and maintains its shine. I put the car on ramps to do another oil change, adjust the torsion bars (only slightly, maybe 1 to 1 1/5 full turns. I have experience with torsion bars on later model Chev pickups and SUV’s. I’m really excited to get the exhaust done. Right now the leak is hideous and sounds awful, down on power.
Lastly, when I went around a right hand medium speed turn last night I got an awful running type noise like a big chain was hitting the wheel. Once I straightened out it went right away. Anybody familiar with this? I thought perhaps it was Wheel or tire rub, but it looks as if the sway bar and torsion bracket might have been pulled on forward. I’ll look at it, but I was curious if anybody was knew exactly what it was or if it was a common issue.
More pics later!!! Here’s the top
View attachment 200147 View attachment 200148 View attachment 200149

Be careful that Meguiars vinyl protectant is water based and may streak when it rains. It's very hard to find anything for vinyl tops. I have a can of vinyl top wax that is probably almost 40 years old. Once I run out, i'm screwed!

 

[73 T&C]

Top looks great Chad. Glad to see you got her back up and running. Great Job!!!!

Keep us posted on the rest of your progress as you sort her out.

Javier

 

[Chad]

Top looks great Chad. Glad to see you got her back up and running. Great Job!!!!

Keep us posted on the rest of your progress as you sort her out.

Javier

Thanks I really appreciate it. I have an oil leak that crept up, and I’m getting a lightly flashing oil light at idle when I’m in drive against the converter. I’m going to have the exhaust shop source it on the lift.

nice

Thank you

Be careful that Meguiars vinyl protectant is water based and may streak when it rains. It's very hard to find anything for vinyl tops. I have a can of vinyl top wax that is probably almost 40 years old. Once I run out, i'm screwed!

Will do. I won’t be in rain much but I’ll try and find some old school petroleum based top stuff.

 

[Jon O.]

Will do. I won’t be in rain much but I’ll try and find some old school petroleum based top stuff.

Let me know if you find anything, I have been looking for quite some time.

 

[Chad]

Let me know if you find anything, I have been looking for quite some time.

Will do! Do you guys know much about my 4 bbl Edelbrock performer intake manifold and 4 bbl carb swap? My question is this. I have a Holley 650 with what looks to be a vacuum secondary, and I also have two thermoquads, one which is in good shape and another that’s complete but needs rebuilt or to be used for parts. I can either use the Holley or use the thermoquad and have plenty of parts if needed. On a 360 2v with 9.1:1 compression and stock cam I’m not sure which way to go. I know I can dial the fuel back, and I always hear Steve Dulcich praising the thermoquad religiously on Roadkill and RK Garage. I have no experience with either.

Also, I need a tech tip. I’ve noticed that after about 20 mins of driving, if I have the car idling in Drive against the converter the oil light begins to flicker. In N it’s gone. But the longer I drive the worse it seems to get. It gets to the point where I need to have the car at 11-1200 rpm to get the light out. The motor doesn’t knock or anything, but it’s definitely losing pressure the longer I drive. No lifter noise either. My thought was the screen is getting blocked and when I shut car off for a while whatever debris drifts away from the screen. I just don’t know what could possibly have gotten into the case/ pan since the motors never been open, except maybe a couple teeth from timing sprocket. Yesterday I changed the oil/ filter and same thing. Any ideas? Should I pull pan? Maybe sending unit? I don’t know the threshold for the dummy light in this thing...


And a few mins later...


so... Holley or thermoquad?
And increasing low oil pressure the longer I drive.
Thanks guys I appreciate it

 

[live4theking]

Check to see if your oil leak is at the sending unit. You may end up fix two problems at once. The sending unit will go bad and leak, which could also be causing your flickering light.

 

[polara71]

The only time I had a flickering light was low oil pressure , then the bearings went bad

 

[73 T&C]

I would put some STP oil treatment for the zinc regardless of the light. Helps with scuffing of the bearings and cylinders/pistons.

Then put an oil pressure meter into the sensor hole and see what you have at idle.

If less than 10 psi at idle, you have a problem with either the pump or just worn out engine. But I doubt it.

Can you see oil movement on the rockers through the filler hole? My money is on the sensor.

 

[73 T&C]

Will do! Do you guys know much about my 4 bbl Edelbrock performer intake manifold and 4 bbl carb swap? My question is this. I have a Holley 650 with what looks to be a vacuum secondary, and I also have two thermoquads, one which is in good shape and another that’s complete but needs rebuilt or to be used for parts. I can either use the Holley or use the thermoquad and have plenty of parts if needed. On a 360 2v with 9.1:1 compression and stock cam I’m not sure which way to go. I know I can dial the fuel back, and I always hear Steve Dulcich praising the thermoquad religiously on Roadkill and RK Garage. I have no experience with either.
View attachment 200293 View attachment 200294 View attachment 200295

Also, I need a tech tip. I’ve noticed that after about 20 mins of driving, if I have the car idling in Drive against the converter the oil light begins to flicker. In N it’s gone. But the longer I drive the worse it seems to get. It gets to the point where I need to have the car at 11-1200 rpm to get the light out. The motor doesn’t knock or anything, but it’s definitely losing pressure the longer I drive. No lifter noise either. My thought was the screen is getting blocked and when I shut car off for a while whatever debris drifts away from the screen. I just don’t know what could possibly have gotten into the case/ pan since the motors never been open, except maybe a couple teeth from timing sprocket. Yesterday I changed the oil/ filter and same thing. Any ideas? Should I pull pan? Maybe sending unit? I don’t know the threshold for the dummy light in this thing...


And a few mins later...


so... Holley or thermoquad?
And increasing low oil pressure the longer I drive.
Thanks guys I appreciate it

Your thinking the problem too hard regarding the oil light.

From your video we can see the temp is low so the oil should be good and thick. As the engine warms the oil also heats up and becomes much less viscous (thinner) so the oil pressure naturally drops. The sensor is there and set to a low pressure point where it makes ground and the light goes on. (Like when you first start the car, you should see the oil light on bright and go out quickly after the engine fires)

The sensors do fail and can misread the pressure; sending a false ground to the light. This can also be caused by debris or just plain old sludge where the sensor goes in. (Seen that several times)

Start with the sensor. It’s cheap and will tell you quickly if you have a problem. Make sure the passage the sensor goes into is not all fouled up before you put the new sensor in.

Let us know how it goes....

As to Thermoquad or Holley, I’m a Thermoquad guy.... they can be a bit fussy but tend to run a bit more economically than the Holley and produce the same result: air mixed with gasoline. But make sure it’s the small bore 1-3/4 secondaries version. Primaries are the same in both versions.

Even on the 360 the smaller bore version is more than enough. The 2” is way too much carb for that engine IMO without heavy breathing modifications to it. Just look up Thermoquad on google for the lists of carb numbers to see which one is correct for your year and engine size. This makes a big difference on tunability and performance.

Oh... and they sound great when the secondaries kick in.

Holley are good as are edelbrocks too. All should fit your manifold I believe. Ultimately, go with your gut.

 

[Moparwilks]

That’s a whole lotta dodge there! Should be badged a Chrysler due to the battleship treaty that restricts size.

 

[Fratzog]

Great thread and really like the car. Your work ethic is amazing but I'd suggest you pace yourself to avoid permanent damage. If not you'll pay for it as you age. BTW I don't think Road Wheels came 7" wide. Stock wheels are 5.5" wide and I think the Road Wheels are either 6 or 6.5". Someone here will know for sure.

 

[polara71]

Great thread and really like the car. Your work ethic is amazing but I'd suggest you pace yourself to avoid permanent damage. If not you'll pay for it as you age. BTW I don't think Road Wheels came 7" wide. Stock wheels are 5.5" wide and I think the Road Wheels are either 6 or 6.5". Someone here will know for sure.

I almost never disagree with Fred but apparently in the later years the 7" wide wheel was available

 

[cantflip]

I filled a gas can with premium, added some points booster, and a little sea foam.

Crazy deal after a week of coming back to car and trying to get running.
This was last weekend. I had a lot of other wrenches to turn this week, so I basically spent this week getting new parts (water pump, gaskets, couple Thermoquads in working order for $75!, 4 bbl manifold, and basically just throwing everything I could in parts washed, cleaning up the bay, sanding, priming, painting, etc to get mechanical overhaul where I’ll be content with for a while.
I would just take breaks from other jobs to keep progress.


I suffered my first heat stroke or exhaustion today and it was brutal. I was wrenching on the Polara in 90 degree weather and basically freaked out. Went from a little disorientation, then instantly went to nausea and chunks in drain pan, and capped off with full body cramps all at one time. Crazy scary! I was all over the cold h2o all day and still happened. Be careful overdoing it in the sun gentleman. Anyways so I took some downtime in shop to cool off and start this thread.

Thanks for the detailed write up... love the car and the deal you got on her. I can't help myself, I am going to give a little advice/food for thought based on your posts.

To start with, heat stroke is a funny thing... Once you heat stroke the first time, you have the tendency forever. Careful with water and electrolytes and also try to not overdo (or just avoid) stuff like coffee or alcohol which can be counter productive to hydration. I've had to be careful with this myself for the last couple of decades... working in the shade helps too... and a little salt helps, if your diet isn't restricted.

A friend with a concrete company, lets go of anyone who heat strokes... they are never the same afterward. It's almost like your body reprograms itself to continue to do so.

Then I realized something was wrong and I was feeling right done, and my goose was cooked. Heat stroke. Boo.I switched to a 180 deg thermostat from 195 for this reason as well.
The car has new tires, disc brakes, and all the lights are good. Radio even works all the speakers boom. I’m going to be cruising tomorrow night I hope.

Here she sits all pretty with her big voluptuous body

View attachment 198241

View attachment 198242

Lastly if you have a look at the engine bay you can see what I mean on the importance of cleaning and painting that monster A/C pump. Looks so much better, even though I cleaned up bay a lot, as well.

View attachment 198251

View attachment 198252

Technical stuff... careful using to many or too much of those miracle cure products. Their benefits are debatable and sometimes they cause more trouble than they cure.

The thermostat shouldn't affect hot weather driving... it only sets the minimum temperature. In cooler weather you can actually cause excessive engine wear running to cool... a slow death she doesn't deserve.

Regarding the carburetor... I'd recommend putting a little effort into a clean up rebuild of the 2bbl. I've had really nice running 2bbl Mopars and if the carburetor isn't damaged, you may decide you prefer it too. Careful not to over tighten the wingnut on the air cleaner... the stud doesn't go to the base (throttle area) of the carb and the body can be broken.

The 2bbl will drive nicely, without the feel/sound of secondaries coming on... but you'd waste a ton to time and frustration to get most universal Holley's to run as well. If you have to have 4 venturies... work on the Thermoquads. There is some potential to get the right one to deliver slightly better fuel economy, IF you drive with a light foot and stay in the primaries. I'm not a big fan of Holley's, and view them as a tuning PITA... but the same could be said for any non-stock carb.

 

[cantflip]

I almost never disagree with Fred but apparently in the later years the 7" wide wheel was available

The 7" Road Wheels are a tough find. He has new tires, according to a prior post and they look good... I'd drive them a while and search for the replacements or some nice wheel covers.

Your thinking the problem too hard regarding the oil light.

From your video we can see the temp is low so the oil should be good and thick. As the engine warms the oil also heats up and becomes much less viscous (thinner) so the oil pressure naturally drops. The sensor is there and set to a low pressure point where it makes ground and the light goes on. (Like when you first start the car, you should see the oil light on bright and go out quickly after the engine fires)

The sensors do fail and can misread the pressure; sending a false ground to the light. This can also be caused by debris or just plain old sludge where the sensor goes in. (Seen that several times)

Start with the sensor. It’s cheap and will tell you quickly if you have a problem. Make sure the passage the sensor goes into is not all fouled up before you put the new sensor in.

Let us know how it goes....

As to Thermoquad or Holley, I’m a Thermoquad guy.... they can be a bit fussy but tend to run a bit more economically than the Holley and produce the same result: air mixed with gasoline. But make sure it’s the small bore 1-3/4 secondaries version. Primaries are the same in both versions.

Even on the 360 the smaller bore version is more than enough. The 2” is way too much carb for that engine IMO without heavy breathing modifications to it. Just look up Thermoquad on google for the lists of carb numbers to see which one is correct for your year and engine size. This makes a big difference on tunability and performance.

Oh... and they sound great when the secondaries kick in.

Holley are good as are edelbrocks too. All should fit your manifold I believe. Ultimately, go with your gut.

A lot of good information here... That big 2bbl will be great if working correctly, though...

Regarding oil pressure. The sender is a known failure point... should be pretty cheap and easy if you want to hang a part instead of using a gauge first. If it's leaking... you need it regardless.

For low oil pressure at idle, I always recommend swapping the filter for a new one. The bypass in the filter can be defective or on a somewhat sludgy engine the filter may clog enough with the fresh oil to require replacement... the bypass WILL lower pressure at idle/lower speeds.

Because the timing gear plastic all went to the pan... It's possible, but unlikely, that the screen is getting blocked... it is more likely that smaller pieces made it into the pump (which is before the filter) and has caused scoring which will drop pressure. As @polara71 mentioned... it could be main bearings... but that gets into a chicken and egg conversation.

My advice... start with the filter (try something better than Fram, PLEASE) (WIX or Hastings are generally preferred by old timers). If the sender leaks, replace it... otherwise stick a gauge in the hole and see what she does at cold vs hot... might need a drive to get fully hot (oil is a coolant). I would want to clean out the pan... my superstition... but it will have to come down if the pump is diagnosed failed. Inspect the pump, and the mains... if the mains look wiped, the condition of the crank will tell if you can get away with winding in new bearings... if you do, replace the rod bearings too.

I'm all for heroic rebuilds, as long as I don't have to fund them...If the true mileage is 46k, I'd guess the bearings got too much ethanol fuel in the crankcase during her long nap and starting attempts... You should be able to get the bearings without pulling the engine... the cylinder bores will be self cleaning and may seal themselves back up nicely, but if you pull the engine and heads... you'll wind up in a full rebuild.

 

[Chad]

Check to see if your oil leak is at the sending unit. You may end up fix two problems at once. The sending unit will go bad and leak, which could also be causing your flickering light.

I’ll replace the unit. At $9 it’s a quick fix. Last night I drove the car around and basically listened to the engine and disregarded the light. Seemed as if the motor was fine, and the light was just a symptom of another issue. Thanks for the information! I’ll replace the unit and update here later.

The only time I had a flickering light was low oil pressure , then the bearings went bad

Dang, yeah I understand that. If it’s the bearings or anything major, I’m just going to yank motor and swap in a 383 4 bbl or a 440 4v. Hopefully it’s not that bad, but if so, it’s easier for me to R&R with big block than tear this one down.

I would put some STP oil treatment for the zinc regardless of the light. Helps with scuffing of the bearings and cylinders/pistons.

Then put an oil pressure meter into the sensor hole and see what you have at idle.

If less than 10 psi at idle, you have a problem with either the pump or just worn out engine. But I doubt it.

Can you see oil movement on the rockers through the filler hole? My money is on the sensor.

I did watch rocker movement. Everything looked great, so I know the lifters/ rockers are getting full motion. Hopefully it’s not a serious issue. As I said if I have a really oil pressure issue I decided to toss in the 440 out of the D200.

Your thinking the problem too hard regarding the oil light.

From your video we can see the temp is low so the oil should be good and thick. As the engine warms the oil also heats up and becomes much less viscous (thinner) so the oil pressure naturally drops. The sensor is there and set to a low pressure point where it makes ground and the light goes on. (Like when you first start the car, you should see the oil light on bright and go out quickly after the engine fires)

The sensors do fail and can misread the pressure; sending a false ground to the light. This can also be caused by debris or just plain old sludge where the sensor goes in. (Seen that several times)

Start with the sensor. It’s cheap and will tell you quickly if you have a problem. Make sure the passage the sensor goes into is not all fouled up before you put the new sensor in.

Let us know how it goes....

As to Thermoquad or Holley, I’m a Thermoquad guy.... they can be a bit fussy but tend to run a bit more economically than the Holley and produce the same result: air mixed with gasoline. But make sure it’s the small bore 1-3/4 secondaries version. Primaries are the same in both versions.

Even on the 360 the smaller bore version is more than enough. The 2” is way too much carb for that engine IMO without heavy breathing modifications to it. Just look up Thermoquad on google for the lists of carb numbers to see which one is correct for your year and engine size. This makes a big difference on tunability and performance.

Oh... and they sound great when the secondaries kick in.

Holley are good as are edelbrocks too. All should fit your manifold I believe. Ultimately, go with your gut.

Last night I spent almost an hour enjoying driving the car, just from this post. I paid attention to the noises up yonder under the hood, but drove the car basically with my arm in front of the light, and enjoyed the pillarless coupe cruising on a summer night. I love being talked down. Now after the posts this morning I’ll have he radio off and be stressed, but after I replace the sensor I’ll get back to you guys.

That’s a whole lotta dodge there! Should be badged a Chrysler due to the battleship treaty that restricts size.

Lmfao. Yeah she is quite the pig! I am surprised the waves and nods I get with this big boy. Even granny gave me the double Nixon peace signs at the pharmacy yesterday. Random granny with the rollers in her hair and all.

Great thread and really like the car. Your work ethic is amazing but I'd suggest you pace yourself to avoid permanent damage. If not you'll pay for it as you age. BTW I don't think Road Wheels came 7" wide. Stock wheels are 5.5" wide and I think the Road Wheels are either 6 or 6.5". Someone here will know for sure.

Prob hard to source. I found a site called Coker tire cokertire.com and the have best prices, complete inventory and fast shipping. I’ll keep looking for legit originals locally, but that’s doubtful.

I almost never disagree with Fred but apparently in the later years the 7" wide wheel was available

Noted. Always agree with Fred! Thanks!

Thanks for the detailed write up... love the car and the deal you got on her. I can't help myself, I am going to give a little advice/food for thought based on your posts.

To start with, heat stroke is a funny thing... Once you heat stroke the first time, you have the tendency forever. Careful with water and electrolytes and also try to not overdo (or just avoid) stuff like coffee or alcohol which can be counter productive to hydration. I've had to be careful with this myself for the last couple of decades... working in the shade helps too... and a little salt helps, if your diet isn't restricted.

A friend with a concrete company, lets go of anyone who heat strokes... they are never the same afterward. It's almost like your body reprograms itself to continue to do so.


Technical stuff... careful using to many or too much of those miracle cure products. Their benefits are debatable and sometimes they cause more trouble than they cure.

The thermostat shouldn't affect hot weather driving... it only sets the minimum temperature. In cooler weather you can actually cause excessive engine wear running to cool... a slow death she doesn't deserve.

Regarding the carburetor... I'd recommend putting a little effort into a clean up rebuild of the 2bbl. I've had really nice running 2bbl Mopars and if the carburetor isn't damaged, you may decide you prefer it too. Careful not to over tighten the wingnut on the air cleaner... the stud doesn't go to the base (throttle area) of the carb and the body can be broken.

The 2bbl will drive nicely, without the feel/sound of secondaries coming on... but you'd waste a ton to time and frustration to get most universal Holley's to run as well. If you have to have 4 venturies... work on the Thermoquads. There is some potential to get the right one to deliver slightly better fuel economy, IF you drive with a light foot and stay in the primaries. I'm not a big fan of Holley's, and view them as a tuning PITA... but the same could be said for any non-stock carb.

Mind... blown

That’s amazing info. Actually you’re very correct. After the heat stroke Monday, I’ve had a really hard time dealing with the heat all week. As if I’m already almost there. I had dinner with friends at a nice restaurant Wednesday night, and I couldn’t eat because my hands were cramping. Yesterday after I finished rebuilding the Holley 4160 (hint) I was famished. That’s really funny you mentioned that. I almost do feel predisposed to it now. I’ll have to be more careful. Also as you mentioned, yesterday I had beef jerky and a lunchables for lunch with my water, to make sure I had sodium intake. Thank you a lot for the caring position and ideas. That’s extremely kind of you.

The 7" Road Wheels are a tough find. He has new tires, according to a prior post and they look good... I'd drive them a while and search for the replacements or some nice wheel covers.

A lot of good information here... That big 2bbl will be great if working correctly, though...

Regarding oil pressure. The sender is a known failure point... should be pretty cheap and easy if you want to hang a part instead of using a gauge first. If it's leaking... you need it regardless.

For low oil pressure at idle, I always recommend swapping the filter for a new one. The bypass in the filter can be defective or on a somewhat sludgy engine the filter may clog enough with the fresh oil to require replacement... the bypass WILL lower pressure at idle/lower speeds.

Because the timing gear plastic all went to the pan... It's possible, but unlikely, that the screen is getting blocked... it is more likely that smaller pieces made it into the pump (which is before the filter) and has caused scoring which will drop pressure. As @polara71 mentioned... it could be main bearings... but that gets into a chicken and egg conversation.

My advice... start with the filter (try something better than Fram, PLEASE) (WIX or Hastings are generally preferred by old timers). If the sender leaks, replace it... otherwise stick a gauge in the hole and see what she does at cold vs hot... might need a drive to get fully hot (oil is a coolant). I would want to clean out the pan... my superstition... but it will have to come down if the pump is diagnosed failed. Inspect the pump, and the mains... if the mains look wiped, the condition of the crank will tell if you can get away with winding in new bearings... if you do, replace the rod bearings too.

I'm all for heroic rebuilds, as long as I don't have to fund them...If the true mileage is 46k, I'd guess the bearings got too much ethanol fuel in the crankcase during her long nap and starting attempts... You should be able to get the bearings without pulling the engine... the cylinder bores will be self cleaning and may seal themselves back up nicely, but if you pull the engine and heads... you'll wind up in a full rebuild.

Sounds expensive.... lol

I did rebuild the 4 barrel Holley yesterday. I used a universal kit, tore the carb down to nothing, cleaned it up, and replaced every seal, gasket, and spring. The old gaskets were a total PITA to get off, and the whole process took Maybe 5-6 hours, but I’ll be comfortable knowing it’s done and any issues will be unrelatable to the carb.

As I mentioned above, if the oil pressure issue is anything major (mains, pump, etc) I’m just going to yank the 360 and 383/440 the car. I have a 75 D200 with a good running 440, and If you have seen the pics in this thread, you’ll notice there are lots of old muscle and even more old 8 holed iron. I wouldn’t run a 413 because of scarcity, but I’m not at the point of giving up on the 360 yet. I’m going to get into the oil pressure issue today. The same time I swap the 4bbl stuff I’ll have easy access to the sending unit.

Thanks everyone for ALL the information. It’s priceless and I feel Way more confident with any info dropped here than other places I ask or look online. You guys are real studs for chiming in. A nickels worth the free advice. More to come later. I’ll post pics of the mani/carb setup when I get into the shop here shortly .
Lastly...