Thanks very much il take a look
Chrysler Newport Brake Issue!!
- Thread starter Cianmini1
- Start date
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Soooo right! Yes, stopping a couple tons of Detroit Steel from hurtling to perdition without hydraulic brakes SHOULD BE part of any Driving Exam! That's when folks learn what the phrase "EMERGENCY BRAKE" means. Using the engine to brake also helps plenty here. That's another aspect of the old 2 pump design early Torqueflight trannies had; that the rear pump helped a transmission work sans the engine MAKING EMERGENCY BRAKING MORE PRACTICAL!
Yes, get what you have working first.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
At least in the driveway for testing the rest of the brake system.
When they were working previous they were fine! It was terrible brake fluid and Brakes cooked that caused it
wyrmrider
Member
been there done that in my 65 Imperial towing a trailer, went across a 4 lane highway and up the other side replaced the shoes with metallic VELVETOuCH
you had to warm them up by dragging the brakes for a block
for them to work the work better hot and do not fade You can get your drums red hot if not careful , can melt the wheel bearing grease
Veletouch is not "fully metallic" like the Corvette Race drum shoes I do not think they are still available. Velvetouch also made clutch lining
wyrmrider
Member
Name brand brake fluid DOT4 flush yearly if in a humid climate or at least use a turkey baster suck out the resavour and refill, check the colour of the removed fluid and if brown do a complete flush boiling water in your fluid is deadly
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
I didn't experience quite such an event as that.
It was more of a look for an opening and then wait for the long roll out on the emergency brake.
The first 5 seconds was a very nervous time.
SuperDave
Member
Been there, done that. Short of removing the master and bench bleeding it, this next part requires 2 people: one to watch the pot under the hood & a 2nd person to work the pedal. You want to soft tap the pedal and only "Bump" it, no more than an inch of travel, repeatedly. Don't use your foot, use your hand 
.
What happens is there is a bubble of air that parks directly behind the piston. When you bench bleed, you short stroke it and you can see little bubbles leak up from the tiny fill hole in the bottom of the pot. Once it's on the car it's difficult to get that bubble free, but not impossible. Being how it's right behind the piston, it doesn't want to travel the length of the brake line to the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. You are going to want to park it on a level surface and bump it repeatedly until no more bubbles come out. This can take as much as an hour, so be ready and patient. Once you think all the bubbles are out of it, keep at it for another 5-10 minutes more, just to be sure! Brakes are mission critical, everything else can be half assed functional and still get you home again but brakes have to work good no matter what or you (or someone else) may DIE!!!
Short stroking it is key and it helps tremendously if you have a spotter provide a second pair of eyes as you tap the pedal a couple thousand times to work that cursed last bubble out. You might have to move it slowly to get that last bit of air out. I've had this process last as much as an hour, so it may be necessary to bribe your mate with a beer or three to hang with you long enough to complete the job.
Good luck!
.What happens is there is a bubble of air that parks directly behind the piston. When you bench bleed, you short stroke it and you can see little bubbles leak up from the tiny fill hole in the bottom of the pot. Once it's on the car it's difficult to get that bubble free, but not impossible. Being how it's right behind the piston, it doesn't want to travel the length of the brake line to the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. You are going to want to park it on a level surface and bump it repeatedly until no more bubbles come out. This can take as much as an hour, so be ready and patient. Once you think all the bubbles are out of it, keep at it for another 5-10 minutes more, just to be sure! Brakes are mission critical, everything else can be half assed functional and still get you home again but brakes have to work good no matter what or you (or someone else) may DIE!!!
Short stroking it is key and it helps tremendously if you have a spotter provide a second pair of eyes as you tap the pedal a couple thousand times to work that cursed last bubble out. You might have to move it slowly to get that last bit of air out. I've had this process last as much as an hour, so it may be necessary to bribe your mate with a beer or three to hang with you long enough to complete the job.
Good luck!
Last edited:
Hi guys thought I’d update you!
Turns out I had a faulty master cylinder and 1 faulty wheel cylinder from rockauto,
Changed to a new master cylinder and 2 new wheel cylinders with flexi hoses.
Bench bled the master, had to adjust the length of the pushrod as it was too short, bled all 4 wheels and now the brake pedal is nice and firm, very happy to say that issue is solved, onto the new!
Thanks guys!
Turns out I had a faulty master cylinder and 1 faulty wheel cylinder from rockauto,
Changed to a new master cylinder and 2 new wheel cylinders with flexi hoses.
Bench bled the master, had to adjust the length of the pushrod as it was too short, bled all 4 wheels and now the brake pedal is nice and firm, very happy to say that issue is solved, onto the new!
Thanks guys!
James Romano
Well-Known Member
Hi. Amazing that you have such a huge car in Ireland with how small some of the streets and roads are there...not to mention the cost of Petrol!
Can you post a pic of your engine compartment, brake side? I'm not 100% sure those Centrix units are good to use with these cars, even though they say they will. I originally was going to go with one as well, but decided to go with a rebuild of my original Booster.
Brake fade is a little normal on these old cars. I have it as well at times and I have all new lines, booster, dual master and wheel cylinders. It sounds like the booster is not giving enough boost because of exactly what you said... out of adjustment.
You may have air in the system still. Get a simple hand pump vacuum/brake bleeder. They work great especially if you can't find someone to help you bleed them. Start in the rear right, and work to the left rear, then to the right front, to the final left front.
Also...if you don't already have one, consider a dual master cylinder it will save your *** big-time if you loose a wheel cylinder.
Hi, yeah it’s a big enough car over here and yes fuel is not great, but I enjoy it very much so it’s worth it. I actually got sorted with the issue, I got a faulty master cylinder so ended up getting a replacement in a different brand and I adjusted the pushrod length with the correct tool also and it was perfect thanks
James Romano
Well-Known Member
I see that....I replied to what I thought was an open thread and didn't realize the issue was sorted... Lol.
Yeah man, drive that beast with pride! Good to see these cars out and about in Ireland as well. Cheers!
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