Circuit Breaker Problem

[cbarge]

The simplest way to determine if there is an open circuit at the ammeter gauge WITHOUT ripping the car apart is this;
With a test light,ground at negative battery terminal,under the hood check main feed for power at bulkhead before and after the fusible link.
Got light? yes?
Next step,keeping test light grounded, check BATT stud on back of alternator,Got no light? Ammeter NFG.
This is why I always run a jumper wire with fusible link between the BATT stud of alternator and BATT stud at starter relay.

 

[SPF Required]

So it looks like I need a test light... Off to the store in the morning.

Adding to the not working list:
-hazard flashers
-Convertible top

+Wipers do work

Thank you all again for your help. This saga is not over yet.

 

[Fury440]

I don't know, having a whole bunch of circuits go squirrely at once smacks of a common denominator. I would carefully clean all the contacts on the bulkhead connector first because virtually every circuit goes through it and no matter what it will not be time wasted.

The next common item is grounding. Mopar wiring systems depend on grounds. This saved wire and manufacturing cost, but as the car develops rust strange feedback can occur between unrelated circuits. I use a 20' length of hookup wire with alligator clips on both ends. One end clips to the battery negative post. With the other end touch it to the ground by each light. If the light starts to work, gets brighter, etc., fix the bad ground.

Be logical, pick one circuit and completely solve it's problem, then pick another until everything works. Randomly replacing switches or installing jumpers can make things worse, be methodical.

Before you are tempted to changed the headlight switch, check the high beam foot switch. If it's full of rust and crap it can produce some weird symptoms.

Have fun!

 

[Big_John]

Randomly replacing switches or installing jumpers can make things worse, be methodical.

^This^

 

[cbarge]

So it looks like I need a test light... Off to the store in the morning.

Adding to the not working list:
-hazard flashers
-Convertible top

+Wipers do work

Thank you all again for your help. This saga is not over yet.

Wipers run on their own circuit and is on the SWITCHED side
Your issue is on HOT (or battery) side that feeds everything else.
Either fusible link at bulkhead or ammeter gauge.

 

[SPF Required]

It turns out the wiring on my car is a bit of a dogs breakfast under the dash. However, at some point a previous owner did bypass the bulk head with a hot wire as suggested previously. And on that line they installed an inline fuse. But then shoved the fuse way up under the dash and I couldn’t see it. Found it...it was blown. Replaced it...lights, windows, brake lights work!

Also fixed what I think was causing the short (bad wire splice) and back on the road.

The repair list continues (bad window lift motor-passenger side), but at least this disaster has been overted. Thank you all for your advice!

 

[cbarge]

Good to hear.

 

[Davea Lux]

It turns out the wiring on my car is a bit of a dogs breakfast under the dash. However, at some point a previous owner did bypass the bulk head with a hot wire as suggested previously. And on that line they installed an inline fuse. But then shoved the fuse way up under the dash and I couldn’t see it. Found it...it was blown. Replaced it...lights, windows, brake lights work!

Also fixed what I think was causing the short (bad wire splice) and back on the road.

The repair list continues (bad window lift motor-passenger side), but at least this disaster has been overted. Thank you all for your advice!

Try removing the inner door panel. You will probably find the window tracks filled with conifer needles, algae, sand, dirt etc. Work the glass up and down carefully once the debris are cleared. Often this will get the power window working again. One you get movement, spray the tracks with silicone lubricant and test the assembly. The gears in these drive units sometimes strip out, but the little motors themselves usually do not fail.

Dave

 

[Mudeblue]

I am happy to report my '68 300 is back home! running great with the rebuilt engine, rebuilt transmission, and new brakes...BUT, I am having some electrical issues.

The brake lights were not working...$6 stoplight switch from the local Napa, problem solved! But that only last a little while. Now I have no tail lights, no head lights, and the windows won't move. It looks like the fuses are all still intact. Could this be a circuit breaker problem?

I have the FSM which tells me where the circuit breaker is behind the left front cowl and I do have a multi meter and will try see what the voltage tells me. I hate to sound dumb, but are these circuit breakers like the ones in my home where I can reset them, or do I have to find new ones? If I have to find new ones, where do I look? Thank you all in advance for your sage advice.

Dean

Yes there may be a fuse behind the driver side kick panel. Just had the same problem on my 65 Fury but and it did go thru the amp gauge. This may or may not be your problem but after much searching, it was mine. Here is a picture of the fuse and it may be 30 - 40 amps. O'reilly Auto had the replacement.

 

[SPF Required]

You will probably find the window tracks filled with conifer needles, algae, sand, dirt etc.
Dave

Thank you for this advice. I bet it is spot on. I can hear the motor trying to engage, but only the tiniest little click (stuck assembly) not like it’s spinning with no movement (stripped gear).

You guys are great (well... most of you!)