Considering lowering my '68 Newport. Best method?

FinallyGot1

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I'm thinking of dropping the ol' girl down a little. Nothing extreme.....like maybe an inch or 2.
Anyway, I've heard that the rear of SOME Mopars can be lowered 1 1/2" or so just by flipping the front spring mounts over and bolting them back on. Now, this did NOT work on my '79 Volare'. Upper & lower bolts were spaced a little differently so you couldn't do it. Does anyone know if this little trick will work on any of our C-bodies?
I've considered lowering blocks too but not sure that's the best plan either.

Basic plan is to drop the rear a little and then adjust the front bars for the stance I want. Tires will remain the same for the foreseeable future since I spent about $800 on those suckers just last summer and I do like the look of the wide whitewalls.

Any thoughts?
 
I always give my opinion on this when every first time C-body owner wants to do that:
Lowering?
Don't do that!
Wide whites?
Don't do that.

1. It's been done so much because it "looks cool" that it no longer is cool.
2. It affects your handling, steering, and ride, negatively.
3. Is every other mechanical part of your car working like new?

But it's your car. Enjoy.....
 
If you really want to lower the car (I don't recommend it) look into lowering blocks for the rear leaf springs. At least then you won't change the leaf spring geometry.
 
If you really want to lower the car (I don't recommend it) look into lowering blocks for the rear leaf springs. At least then you won't change the leaf spring geometry.
Then the shocks will be stretched so you would also need shock extensions.
 
I always give my opinion on this when every first time C-body owner wants to do that:
Lowering?
Don't do that!
Wide whites?
Don't do that.

1. It's been done so much because it "looks cool" that it no longer is cool.
2. It affects your handling, steering, and ride, negatively.
3. Is every other mechanical part of your car working like new?

But it's your car. Enjoy.....

Too late on the wide whites. First whitewalls I've ever bought actually. Always been a blackwall fan meself but that just didn't seem right on this car.
Actually, I think "lowering" might be too strong a term for what I plan.....maybe "stance & attitude adjustment" might be better. Ride quality is a more subjective thing. Some people want to float along, isolated and insulated from the road. I like to feel more "connected" to things. Ditching those horrible radials and putting on some proper bias plies got me pretty close to where I want to be. Better shocks front & rear will do the trick, I think.

That's what makes this car hobby so great. There's plenty of room for all of us to do whatever appeals to us.
 
Ross must really be busy with this latest buisness venture. These cars look great a little closer to the ground imo.
 
My Newport came with a sagging front end. I will be the first to admit I am hesitant to make it right. My right brain says, Fix it, but my left brain..



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All cars are like Women,, How Sexy they are or how beautiful they look , is definitely in the eye of the beholder, Some like tall some like short etc ,, etc,,, My thoughts,,,, Catfish-65
 
I hear you Stan, my Imp is riding low with sagging rear springs and spongy torsion bar isolators but those are off being refurbed and the leaf springs are next so I think I'll be riding at the factory height by spring.

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It's really expensive to heat the big space in back where the cars are. I just make sure to keep it above freezing back there and it usually is closer to 40 on most days. The cold doesn't bother me while I'm working on the cars or welding, I just dress for it.
 
Cranking the front down is easy - just turn the torsion bar adjustment bolt a few turn until you are happy with the front height. Then get the front end realigned!!! This is not just a "good idea", it's mandatory for a good and proper alignment. Also, do this after you've lowered the rear, so everything is right. I recommend lowering blocks NO MORE than one inch! You can also remove one leaf off each spring for additional lowering, but be mindful that the bottom of the shock is now lower than the bottom of your wheel rim. The edge of the rim is your scrub line. NO PART of the car should extend below this point! If you have a blowout on the road, the shock and mount will hit the ground first, rather than the wheel rim, resulting in one hell of a problem when you start ripping parts out from under the car! Do you have 14" or 15" wheels? If you have 14s, you are going to have to go to 15" or even 16" wheels to avoid this issue.
 
I've seen c bodys that are supposed to be at factory front ride height, and the front end looks higher than the back end with enough room to throw a soccer ball there. I think there's a fine line in to low, and to high.... In my honest opinion.
 
I have to give the car a little nudge with my shoulder to get the pads on the front arms of my lift to slide under the frame.
 
My Newport came with a sagging front end. I will be the first to admit I am hesitant to make it right. My right brain says, Fix it, but my left brain..



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Just my opinion but I'd rebuild it and get the ride height correct and riding like it should
 
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