Convertible boots 1969 Fury - correct clips

[Welder guy]

There should be a metal strip channel right at the top edge of the seat, if you have a bit of rubber in there (mine had rubber and one half of a zip) just slide it out and the front edge of the boot should slide in.

I agree. There is a small aluminum channel attached to the back of the seat that the boot attaches to. You can see it in the pic of my boot at the start of this thread, you can also see the rubber tearing away from the boot in the same spot. My boot is about 15 years old now, I should get that repaired.

 

[bnz84]

I agree. There is a small aluminum channel attached to the back of the seat that the boot attaches to. You can see it in the pic of my boot at the start of this thread, you can also see the rubber tearing away from the boot in the same spot. My boot is about 15 years old now, I should get that repaired.

Ok, so I'm slow and never paid attention at car shows. I have the aluminum trim with the channel. And in the channels is rubber trim strip about 1" wide. And on this rubber trim I have holes with old thread still stuck in them. It was obviously sewn to something. Are we saying the boot/cover should be sewn onto the rubber strip which then slides into the channel? Is a zipper involved at all in this assembly?

 

[Welder guy]

Yes on my 69 fury my boot has the rubber sewing to the front of my boot then the rubber slides into the Chanel attached to the seat. No zipper on my boot.

 

[system11]

Your boot should have the rubber part already sewn to it - at least my new one came with it. I'm going to guess that the snaps & zip may have been an aftermarket repair kit when boots shrunk and snapped the clips / tore the seat rubber stitching.

 

[bnz84]

Got it. Nothing was sewn to mine but that makes sense and is what I expected. My rubber piece is toast and does not slide. My plans were to try something like this - below - for a replacement. Used for boat upholstery to do just that...sew onto vinyl, and then slide into fixed channels. They even make black plastic flexible channels to hold this "keder" in case the existing aluminum one doesn't work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PI9HIF...colid=33Q9VQZUA5YT&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[Welder guy]

 

[Welder guy]

Got it. Nothing was sewn to mine but that makes sense and is what I expected. My rubber piece is toast and does not slide. My plans were to try something like this - below - for a replacement. Used for boat upholstery to do just that...sew onto vinyl, and then slide into fixed channels. They even make black plastic flexible channels to hold this "keder" in case the existing aluminum one doesn't work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PI9HIF...colid=33Q9VQZUA5YT&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Hey that looks perfect, I don’t have the dimensions of the aluminum trim it would fit in to but I like the way your thinking.

 

[Welder guy]

Got it. Nothing was sewn to mine but that makes sense and is what I expected. My rubber piece is toast and does not slide. My plans were to try something like this - below - for a replacement. Used for boat upholstery to do just that...sew onto vinyl, and then slide into fixed channels. They even make black plastic flexible channels to hold this "keder" in case the existing aluminum one doesn't work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PI9HIF...colid=33Q9VQZUA5YT&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I’m thinking that this strip would be stronger than the original rubber one is.

 

[system11]

Your sunroof retracts better than mine - one side of mine ends up half an inch or so higher. You can't even push it down more, just seems that the top itself won't squash down, the part where it attaches to the lower body gets very tight. I blew the fuse (again) trying to do it while the engine was off (someone replaced my fusible link with a 30A fuse holder - I keep a box in the glove compartment...)

 

[Welder guy]

Your sunroof retracts better than mine - one side of mine ends up half an inch or so higher. You can't even push it down more, just seems that the top itself won't squash down, the part where it attaches to the lower body gets very tight. I blew the fuse (again) trying to do it while the engine was off (someone replaced my fusible link with a 30A fuse holder - I keep a box in the glove compartment...)

Can you show us a short video of the roof going up and down or maybe some pictures. It would help figure things out

 

[system11]

Yeah I'll make a video next time I'm at the storage place. All I have to hand is this, what's interesting is it's down slightly more than it seems to want to go now, just on the left side of the picture below - I wonder if the roof is just folding incorrectly - I haven't taken apart or adjusted anything in this area since the below was taken. I've been storing the car with the roof up - is this the right thing to do? I saw another while looking at this and the roof was so stiff it was still about 5 inches poking out of the top.

 

[Big_John]

If it were me, I'd drill those fugly snaps out and replace it with some pan head or similar stainless steel screws that didn't stick up far. Then you wouldn't have to have the snaps installed on the new cover.

I'd also replace the fuse with a fusible link like it was originally set up. The fusible link works quite differently than a quick blowing fuse.

 

[system11]

Fusible link is on the 'to-do' list. There's a lot on there, most of it will have to wait for the summer now as my only "workshop facilities" are my driveway and this is definitely not the season to have it outside in the open. Until then, they at least had the decency to use one of those rubberised fuse holders and standard automotive 2 blade fuses and it was £1 for 10. I can do small odd bits of interior work and fluid top-ups but that's about it for the moment - it's actually unusual that the storage place lets me do that much on site, it's carpet tiled like a showroom.

I have a very "British" garage from the 60s, so you could probably get the Fury in there if you braced the walls and used a bulldozer to shove it, but it sure as hell wouldn't come out again.

Do you know what that piece of trim/molding is called so I can search for another?

 

[Big_John]

Do you know what that piece of trim/molding is called so I can search for another?

There's probably a dozen names that people are going to call it. An eBay search is probably going to be something like "Fury convertible trim" or some generic searches like that. Post a want ad here and you might get some hits. A email to Murray Park might be a good place.

One thing... The molding clips are fragile and I have not found a good replacement. Be careful with them. Very careful.

 

[1970cat]

if your top sticks up too high on one side ,either the top was installed incorrectly or the mechanism is out of adjustment. does it raise and lower evenly or does it want to twist? this might be enough of a difference to keep the boot from fitting correctly.
the idea is to slide the boot into the channel on the rear of the seat. next you fold it over the seat and when the top is down, over the stack ( the lowered top assembly). then attach it around the perimeter with the plastic clips and snaps on the interior panels. in order to raise the top, you would unfasten the clips and fold the boot over the rear seat. when the top is up, fold the boot over the seat and lay it on the well liner while still attached to the seat.
having said that, i wouldn't suggest doing it that way unless you are absolutely sure everything is dry. any moisture in the well liner or under the boot will cause mold or mildew. at the least, an unpleasant odor.

 

[Fury440]

Here is a picture of the rear side of my rear seat. You can see the alum strip with the tonneau cover slid into the top facing channel. You can also see the dome fasteners on the rear face of the strip whee the well liner snaps n place.

Note also, when the top is lowered into the well, the folds should be smooth and the roof stack should finish with the side rails horizontal.

My car has a glass rear window and the weight of the glass helps to form the roof folds as it lowers. I had a '68 Fury vert with a plastic window and it was a bit of a bear to get it to lower especially if it was cold.

 

[system11]

Nice car man!

 

[William Heckler]

There should not be snaps on your trim somebody drilled holes and installed them . The clips snap on to the stainless steel trim and give the boot a nice flat , tight , clean look . Here is a picture of my 69 sport fury boot with the plastic clips View attachment 244080

 

[William Heckler]

My boot is from legendary. It is a very snug fit. It has to be stretched on while clipping it to the trim. It’s best to do it when it’s hot out, it’s much easier. The proper way is to start clipping the clips on the trim from the middle of the back ( center of the trunk ) and work your way to the sides evenly from the center 6 or 7 clips at a time. If you clip one entire side before the other side it will pull the boot over to that side and it will make it difficult to clip in the other side.

I recently acquired a ‘69 Newport ragtop - sans boot - which I received. It didn’t have plastic clips that everyone talks about. Where can I get these clips? It came with hardware to punch/drill snaps, but that can’t be correct. Thanks! Billy H @ William.heckler@yahoo.com

 

[Big_John]

I recently acquired a ‘69 Newport ragtop - sans boot - which I received. It didn’t have plastic clips that everyone talks about. Where can I get these clips? It came with hardware to punch/drill snaps, but that can’t be correct. Thanks! Billy H @ William.heckler@yahoo.com

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May have to call them. Your boot has to have the correct "pockets" for the clips to set into.

Please don't drill the trim for the snaps. Get the right boot and hardware... Too many of these cars have been done incorrectly.