Correct Placement of Jackstands (Control Arms?)

[MBar]

The Chassis manual says "at the control arms"

I have been putting them at front of frame behind wheel well.

I want to do as the manual says but don't know at which point on the control arm..I ant to guess on the outer-most low point... Hmmmmm

Any drawing or specific as to where on the arm?

 

[CBODY67]

You need to put them under a part of the car that does NOT compress!!! Jack up the front end, raising it at the crossmember under the engine. NOTE how the wheels will move inward when the car is raised. They'll do the same thing, in reverse, when the car is lowered to the ground. Hence, if the jack stands are placed on the lower control arms, something will move when the weight of the car is put upon them! Not good! Unless you are using a twin-post chassis lift, which contacts and maintains "road load" on the lower control arms.

Look in the manuals for the "Jack Points" for the car, but NOT using a bumper lift jack. The front of the FSM has that listed in the "lubrication points" pages, in the front.

Lifting and jack-standing a UniBody-construction car can be different from a body-frame car, due to what is "unloaded" when the body is raised. Different force vectors involved and where they stop. Different for the '68 and prior UniBodies from the '69 and later cars, I suspect, Or might the real transition year be '70 and later? End result, the car should be a stable on the jack stands as if it's sitting on the ground--period -- no room for error. And the

CBODY67

 

[commando1]

Just put the stands on the stub frame.
Not brain surgery....

 

[jct]

When i do that my doors doesn't really want to close

 

[stubs300]

End result, the car should be a stable on the jack stands as if it's sitting on the ground--period -- no room for error.
CBODY67

So, tell me? What good does that do if your trying to replace the shocks or anything else with a now loaded suspension? You can't! I don't know where you get your info from, but your whole post is off the mark!
Depending on weather or not you want the suspension loaded or not! Position the stands where you want them, body or suspension. Lower the vehicle and give it a good shake and bump to see how stable it is before getting under it.

 

[jct]

 

[Wonderwagon]

be aware, depending on the stub frames metal thickness due to rusting, the area under the body pan where it bolts up may crush. I tried doing this and it started to dimple in where the jack stand made contact. Perhaps an incorrect placement or?

 

[jct]

Says nothing about jack stands, I'd use jack stands where the hydraulic lift setting would be

 

[CBODY67]

So, tell me? What good does that do if your trying to replace the shocks or anything else with a now loaded suspension? You can't! I don't know where you get your info from, but your whole post is off the mark!
Depending on weather or not you want the suspension loaded or not! Position the stands where you want them, body or suspension. Lower the vehicle and give it a good shake and bump to see how stable it is before getting under it.

I guess I've been fortunate to have good floor jacks that will stay up for extended periods of time. To do front shocks, I'd raise the car by the front crossmember and leave it there while I did the front shock replacement. I was "gentle" in lowering the car back down onto jackstands (in the same location as the body lift points in the service manual). Paying attention to body moans and groans from "flex" (as mentioned above!). On my '70 DH43, a different story due to the different style of front structure and how it relates to the underbody. Not unlike my '77 Camaro, for example. No issues with doors not closing well, either. THAT is why I made the distinction as to model year of C-body being dealt with! Our experiences, obviously, have been different, which I respect.

CBODY67

 

[mr. fix it]

Says nothing about jack stands, I'd use jack stands where the hydraulic lift setting would be
View attachment 316986 View attachment 316987 View attachment 316988

I've never felt comfortable placing the jack stands in this position with my convertible...

I have always used the lower control arms to mimic road load & placed a pair under the axle leaf spring plate in the back

I agree with Stubs on this but it can be done safely if you take your time checking the stands as you allow the suspension to drop onto the stands.

If any suspension work needs to be done then it's a whole other ball game depending on what you plan to do...

 

[jct]

Agreed, every car is different

 

[MrMoparCHP]

In the front I put them under the lower control arm socket (where the torsion bar goes).
In the rear I put them under the differential housing.




Alan

 

[ALRUI]

When did the stub frame start to be used? My 67 Fury doesn't have one & I don't recall my 69 Charger having one (but that could simply be I don't remember, it was years ago).

 

[Big_John]

When did the stub frame start to be used? My 67 Fury doesn't have one & I don't recall my 69 Charger having one (but that could simply be I don't remember, it was years ago).

Your '67 has one. Look in the FSM on 23-132 for a picture that will verify.

Your '69 Charger had a K frame and not a stub frame.

Here's a '66 Fury stub frame:

Typical B body (Charger) K frame

 

[ALRUI]

Your '67 has one. Look in the FSM on 23-132 for a picture that will verify.

Your '69 Charger had a K frame and not a stub frame.

Here's a '66 Fury stub frame:

View attachment 506319

Typical B body (Charger) K frame

View attachment 506320

Aha! Thanks for the pic, I see how it would come out now, I had a different attachment method in my head (not sure why)...So lifting by the 2nd crossmember with a floor jack under the oil pan is OK & place jack stands at the portion where the torsion bars would be in the photo (or as the manual says under the control arms) is proper?
Thanks Again!
ALR

 

[Gerald Morris]

be aware, depending on the stub frames metal thickness due to rusting, the area under the body pan where it bolts up may crush. I tried doing this and it started to dimple in where the jack stand made contact. Perhaps an incorrect placement or?

YEP! I discovered how RUST-ROTTEN the driver side stub frame on Mathilda was after watching it buckle around the jack pad! THIS was what inspired my search for a new stub frame for that car. Now that it's been damaged on the passenger side as well, any remote notion of saving that stub frame has been compacted and smelted.

Here is what the '68 FSM instructs folk on lifting points:

I use wood blocks between the jack pad and the lift points when I must place it any place other than under the lower control arm up front, or the rear axle. I do the same with jack stands, usually using the K frame up front, which makes a nice place to put a 2x4 on two jack stands beneath for support. Giving a greater surface area to distribute weight over lowers any pressure on any point also; which might save your vehicle from some very nasty damage!

 

[3175375]

YEP! I discovered how RUST-ROTTEN the driver side stub frame on Mathilda was after watching it buckle around the jack pad! THIS was what inspired my search for a new stub frame for that car. Now that it's been damaged on the passenger side as well, any remote notion of saving that stub frame has been compacted and smelted.

Here is what the '68 FSM instructs folk on lifting points:
View attachment 506777
View attachment 506778
View attachment 506779

I use wood blocks between the jack pad and the lift points when I must place it any place other than under the lower control arm up front, or the rear axle. I do the same with jack stands, usually using the K frame up front, which makes a nice place to put a 2x4 on two jack stands beneath for support. Giving a greater surface area to distribute weight over lowers any pressure on any point also; which might save your vehicle from some very nasty damage!

I buy used hockey pucks in addition to wooden blocks and use them as required. Cheap and work well…

 

[Gerald Morris]

I buy used hockey pucks in addition to wooden blocks and use them as required. Cheap and work well…

Damn good idea! I've VERY LITTLE exposure to hockey pucks, being a creature of latitudes far too southerly for that sport to pervade the culture. I suppose I could order up a half dozen and have them shipped here. They're not on any shelves.

 

[3175375]

Damn good idea! I've VERY LITTLE exposure to hockey pucks, being a creature of latitudes far too southerly for that sport to pervade the culture. I suppose I could order up a half dozen and have them shipped here. They're not on any shelves.

Used sporting goods stores