Dashboard Woes
- Thread starter Isaiah Estrada
- Start date
Making some progress, I was able to separate the harness from the frame. It was a badly tangled mess. There are some crunchy wires in here, but for the most part they are still very nice and malleable.
I will have the dash frame sand blasted and possibly powder coated. Debating on if it's going to be worth it to powder coat or shoot it with Rust-Oleum Satin Canyon Black (with the correct prep work of course.)
An intimidating mess, but it's gotta get done!!
Evidence of an ammeter bypass being done
Where can I get a new plastic end for this? Is this evidence of melting?
Also, I have a new bulkhead connector. Isn't there a special tool to use for removing those spade connectors from the bulkhead terminals? I wouldn't mind reusing the original if it was nice, but this is garbage .
If you've been following along, you'll know I had my cluster converted over to an voltmeter in place of the original gauge while retaining a factory appearance. I'm planning on just connecting the 2 wires that would've been connected to the ammeter together and wiring the new voltmeter like any other modern voltmeter.
Also wondering if this would be a helpful aid in addition to my FSM?
I will have the dash frame sand blasted and possibly powder coated. Debating on if it's going to be worth it to powder coat or shoot it with Rust-Oleum Satin Canyon Black (with the correct prep work of course.)
An intimidating mess, but it's gotta get done!!
Evidence of an ammeter bypass being done
Where can I get a new plastic end for this? Is this evidence of melting?
Also, I have a new bulkhead connector. Isn't there a special tool to use for removing those spade connectors from the bulkhead terminals? I wouldn't mind reusing the original if it was nice, but this is garbage .
If you've been following along, you'll know I had my cluster converted over to an voltmeter in place of the original gauge while retaining a factory appearance. I'm planning on just connecting the 2 wires that would've been connected to the ammeter together and wiring the new voltmeter like any other modern voltmeter.
Also wondering if this would be a helpful aid in addition to my FSM?
Interesting side note, I work at a large cable manufacturing plant here in Santa Maria. You may have seen our enormous spools of Cable that say "O K O N I T E" strapped to a flatbed on the freeway before. These wires are just a very very small scale version of the insulated wires and cables we make for industrial applications. Very cool to see it on my car. Apparently back in the day we used to make wire that small, but that work has since been relegated to the other Okonite plants on the East Coast. Would've been cool to be able to source new wiring from my work!
Yes, that's an overheated connector that caused that.
How many do you need? I've seen them for way too much money on eBay. Rhode Island Wiring has a GM insulator that I think is basically the same.
But if you only need a couple, place a want ad here.
The particular female connectors have a pop-up tang on their topside that locks into a recess in the plastic item. When locked-in, they don't leave. To remove, a thin flat spade tool or similar is inserted on the top edge of the connector (from the connection side) and slid between the connector and the plastic, depressing the tang so the connector can be pulled out of the plastic holder by the wire.
The tang points toward the wire end of the connector. As you can tell, the terminal is inserted from the backside of the bulkhead connector item. So it pushes into the plastic from that direction.
Hope this helps,
CBODY67
The tang points toward the wire end of the connector. As you can tell, the terminal is inserted from the backside of the bulkhead connector item. So it pushes into the plastic from that direction.
Hope this helps,
CBODY67
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