Do they make a trunk floor pan for a 67 Chrysler?

Im scared when I read all of this metal epoxy, POR 15 and fiberglass use. In my opinion thats only a lazy mans way of hiding the rust. I have seen it so many times on cars from US and it looks like S!&#t. Its like poeple are thinking.. if i dont see it its not there....But the rust it is there and they know it...
If you should do it right you have to cut and weld in an new piece of metal, thats the only way.
Fiberglass is for boats not for cars...
 
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Hansson72 said:
Im scared when I read all of this metal epoxy, POR 15 and fiberglass use. In my opinion thats only a lazy mans way of hiding the rust. I have seen it so many times on cars from US and it looks like S!&#t. Its like poeple are thinking.. if i dont see it its not there....But the rust it is there and they know it...
If you should do it right you have to cut and weld in an new piece of metal, thats the only way.
Fiberglass is for boats not for cars...
Click to expand...
That's pretty much where I'm at
 
What's the purpose of all the Holes in the pans? Drain holes? Doesn't make sense to me... Access holes? But there is nothing to access underneath!?
 
I'd give it either a Treatment with whatever sort of primer and paint that's recommended here after you already brushed out the rust, not familiar with your products. I like to have an unobstructed first Hand look on the metal without covering up the spots with fiberglass etc. to observe how it lasts to find new issues in an early stage.

The other and better way due to the many pin holes and thin scared metal I'd go for putting in one large section out of a salvaged trunk pan, putting in many smaller patches takes the same time at least and you'll run into new holes you burn in while welding leading to more puzzle work.
 
Neutralize the rust, drive and enjoy. This isn't always my advice but for this car that's what I suggest.
 
detmatt said:
Neutralize the rust, drive and enjoy. This isn't always my advice but for this car that's what I suggest.
Click to expand...

Agree, this is much better than using fiberglass or something else just to hide it..

Not even this car would do better with fiberglass :icon_lol:
Bilen.jpg

Bilen.jpg
 
This one is a tough one for me. God knows I am neurotic about doing repairs the right way. If this was the New Yorker, what to do would be a no-brainer.
Regardless, the rust is getting stopped and neutralized.
 
Hansson72 said:
Im scared when I read all of this metal epoxy, POR 15 and fiberglass use. In my opinion thats only a lazy mans way of hiding the rust. I have seen it so many times on cars from US and it looks like S!&#t. Its like poeple are thinking.. if i dont see it its not there....But the rust it is there and they know it...
If you should do it right you have to cut and weld in an new piece of metal, thats the only way.
Fiberglass is for boats not for cars...
Click to expand...

For this application, I don't agree. You run the risk of doing more structural damage by cutting and welding patches, besides it looks ugly. You just want to seal the trunk from rodents and more road moisture. Once it is finished and top coated, I doubt anyone would be able to tell the difference, especially if you use speckle paint, but I'm not sure if that was available in 1967. I don't care what 40+ year old car you look at, a number one 3 million dollar Hemi Cuda, or that barn find with 1000 original miles, there is rust somewhere. Seal it and forget it.
 
While new metal is the only right way to do rust. On this one, there's alot of exfoliation corrosion (splitting and lifting of the metal) , and deep pitting. A: its going to require alot more prep to be rid of that type of rust for a clean surface to put any primer and paint on. This being said, if its a temp patch... go for it. I would suggest dropping the tank and doing the same to the underside as well. If money is the issue maybe locate someone who can manufacture a new pan and at a later time spend the $$ to have it installed, or DIY, yes, I read DIY is a limiting factor. JMO.
 
OK, here's my offer.
If there is one person here that will remove the old pan, fabricate a new duplicate floor pan, , weld it in perfectly, prime, paint, and seal my floor, step up to the plate with a price that is realistic for this car and the present condition it is in....
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.
.
.
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Still waiting....

I can weld but butt welding ~20 linear feet of 18ga sheet metal in cramped conditions and not looking like a ghetto repair is pretty F■•○⊙-ing hard!!
 
I can't see doing that when 90 percent of your floor is solid... If I had to hazard a guesstimate around 800 to remove, and reinstall. Maybe talk to 75monaco the guy building the bluesmobile. He's been doing a bunch of welding and could probably get you a deal.
 
I would check the trunk seal and rear glass seal, moisture is going to continue to do more damage.
 
I would guess closer to 1500...

Removal isn't that difficult, thought it is time consuming.. might save some $$ doing this part of the build.
 
To properly cut out and install a complete trunk floor with extensions is about 24 hours labor. That includes cleaning the frame rails and all other mounting surfaces and using weld through primer on them and then dressing all the welds, caulking, priming and painting. You can flat rate one in quicker but it would mean cutting corners.
 
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