Driving a C-Body as a daily driver.

Been doing it for six years now. I live in Edmonton Alberta Canada, where it's colder than a witches tit Six or eight months of the year. Only saving grace is that it's soo cold, salt doesn't work, so we slather the roads in sand and gravel. I bought my Moms 2000 grand prix gt when she got her buick verano, and still can't bring myself to drive it. Would rather drive my roached and rusted 71 Newport.
 
I have different C-bodys for the DD job.
Three seasons my black 1970 Imperial and a crusty 69 300 in the winter time.

I have to admit that I don't drive my 300 in the snow/salt (but in my area we had not a single day of snow this winter yet!). But we have salt on the roads as they are scared when temperatures hit 32F that it might freeze somewhere. Sometimes just on bridges. So it might get a little bit of salt occasionally.

My black Imperial does a great job as a daily and has never let me down in the last two years with more than 13.000 miles driven. But it was maintained perfectly when I bought it with everything working and or replaced as soon as it was not perfect anymore. It now has some small defects I will have to work on (passenger side window motor not working correctly anymore, motor for headlights doesn't work correctly sometimes) but mechanically it is still great.

Despite from that I always have a back up driver (other old Mopars) in three seasons.
In the winter I become sometimes a passenger in my girlfriends Mercedes

Carsten
 
and 4 drs ;)

Another thing about winter driving with a '60 car is that there is no vents pointing at the side windows to de-ice/defog them.
That's what vent wing windows are for..Open them up all the way and as you drive they clear right up.Or just roll the window down,lol
 
That's what vent wing windows are for..Open them up all the way and as you drive they clear right up.Or just roll the window down,lol
My problem is my heater controls aren't hooked up. I have wires and vacuum lines hanging under my dash and no idea what goes where. (66 Polara w/ ac if anyone has a diagram or can explain) I've driven it up til snow for quite a while so I can deal with it but it would seem like brand new technology to be able to defrost the windshield!
 
My problem is my heater controls aren't hooked up. I have wires and vacuum lines hanging under my dash and no idea what goes where. (66 Polara w/ ac if anyone has a diagram or can explain) I've driven it up til snow for quite a while so I can deal with it but it would seem like brand new technology to be able to defrost the windshield!
So maybe I should toss a 66 FSM in the trunk while I'm at it, huh? It's a big trunk but we're likely to fill it at this rate.
 
My problem is my heater controls aren't hooked up. I have wires and vacuum lines hanging under my dash and no idea what goes where. (66 Polara w/ ac if anyone has a diagram or can explain) I've driven it up til snow for quite a while so I can deal with it but it would seem like brand new technology to be able to defrost the windshield!
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
 
Wow thanks for all of the responses. I have been busy doing Army stuff the past couple of days. I wouldn't be doing this anytime soon (going on a little overseas vacation soon), unless I find a car that I absolutely like. I am just trying to weigh my options.

Depends on how reliable and safe the C-body is and it also depends on what inconveniences you're will to put up with having a C-body as a DD.
There is no answer to this question.

You can buy a $10,000.00 turnkey car, sink another 10 grand into it, and it still will never be a 2016 Camry.

I know that a C-Body will never be a new car and honestly I don't really care.


IMHO, an old car is fun to drive and there's no reason why it can't be as reliable as a new car.....
But..... There's drawbacks. First, do you want to drive that car all winter? Fort Drum has a harsh winter. You are going to kill that car pretty fast. The salt and cold destroys an old car much faster than a newer car. I remember seeing rust problems on 4 and 5 year old cars back when they were new. Rust will happen no matter what you do. The old vinyl interior cracks and splits in the cold. The old engine might not like turning over on a sub zero morning and suddenly you are laying on your back, in the cold, replacing the starter that you had to order because the local Autozone didn't have one on the shelf.

The other three seasons aren't too bad... as long as you understand that you are still driving a very old car... parts are going to be a little harder to come by and may be more expensive. The TBI system sounds cool... but you are going to be 100% on your own if something happens. Almost nobody here is going to be able to help with diagnosis and no local mechanic is going to touch it. A carburetor will be more reliable.

Don't get me wrong, I drive my old car a lot more than many folks do. I'll put 4000 miles on it every year and there are some that do much more... But I don't have to be at work at 7:00 any more either.... and when I did, it was in a newer car with heated seats and A/C. Show up late for work once because of your older car and you won't hear the end of it from your boss.

One other thing.... You will stand out everywhere. Everyone is going to know where you are and what you are doing. "Hey, I saw your Fury at Adult World last night" etc. Just saying.....

4111334990_6b68076850_z.jpg


Snow+salt=rust

I know your from the area and know what the winters are like. I know with growing up in Michigan that rust will take over any car. I would plan on driving it everyday. I drive a total of 12 miles a day and we drive my wife's kia when we need to go anywhere. I could grab a set of winter tires and some rust prevention might be in order to keep the car fresh.

Funny!! I'm looking for a Winter DD, I had an 07 Explorer and loved it. Whatcha ask'en for the 03? Got pics?

Shoot me a PM and we can talk.


Thanks
 
I'm with John on this one. You can drive a C year round but as he says expect to deal with what is required from it.
I am north of Fort Drum and you can kill any old car quick within a couple winters driving in our climate.
If you lived in the southern portions of the country--like other members here who have chimed in,go for it.
The only card you have is you are not far from Jack Forkey's in Depauvlille/Clayton where he has a gold mine of Mopar only parts.
If you insist,my recommendation would be a Formal (74-78) C body.
Being the newer C's of the bunch,cheaper to buy and typically in good running shape.
Mechanical parts are still easy to attain,plus the modern comforts of big disc brakes,and run on unleaded fuel.
Speaking from experience,they are awesome cars in the snow!!

I haven't heard of Jack Forkey's. I am going to have to check him out. Maybe I should look at the Formals.
 
So maybe I should toss a 66 FSM in the trunk while I'm at it, huh? It's a big trunk but we're likely to fill it at this rate.
I have a FSM, there isn't a diagram of the controls in my copy. I'll just have to kill my back and lay awkwardly and just get it done.
 
I haven't heard of Jack Forkey's. I am going to have to check him out. Maybe I should look at the Formals.
Private message me and i will give you his addy and cell number. Grat guy for the Mopar stuff.More into the A B E stuff butt does sell C stuff when it rolls in.
 
'66 300. best entry level hot rod money can buy. have a '65 non letter 300. 383 4bbl. engine is bone stock original everything. never misses a beat. upgraded to dual master for safety. changed 3.23s to 2.71s 'cause i like 'em better. otherwise wouldn't change a thing. winter beater: '93 s10 2wd with good old fashioned snow tires.
 
This is the TBI Setup that I am thinking about. The Company is located about 10 minutes from my parents house. Its pretty reasonable, for only $1400 for the complete set up.

MOPAR

"For converting an I6, V6 or V8 engine from carburetor to throttle body fuel injection. Uses remanufactured GM throttle body appropriate for engine size. Operates GM engines with or without ECM controlled ignition. Very popular for older street-driven vehicles or 4 wheel drive vehicles. Contains all sensors, components, wiring harnesses, ECM and fuel pump to install fuel injection on your engine. Custom calibration PROM for your engine. ECM installs under dash. Fuel pump installs in main fuel line, and bypass fuel is returned to the tank. Harness includes diagnostic connector, and diagnostic is similar to 1986-92 GM pickup." Thats from the site.

It seems pretty straight forward to install. This coupled with electronic ignition would make it a much more reliable car.


Still just got to worry about the whole rust thing....


Thanks

Eric
 
Link goes to a suspended account.

That aside... I looked at those once and they look like a decent way of converting to TBI.

But... What does $1400 buy you? I don't see as it's more reliable. There's sensors and wiring that's going to be added on and that gives more opportunity for problems. Better mileage might be debatable, but let's do some math. Let's say 10k miles a year and 13 MPG with a carb. TBI ups it to 15 MPG. We'll say $2.50 a gallon. Savings would be $256 annually. Almost 5 1/2 years of driving to pay for that. Is it going to run better than a carb?? Maybe... I was never impressed with any TBI equipped car back in the 80's, so I tend to not believe that claim.

Up to you, but I wouldn't spend the $$.
 
Link goes to a suspended account.

That aside... I looked at those once and they look like a decent way of converting to TBI.

But... What does $1400 buy you? I don't see as it's more reliable. There's sensors and wiring that's going to be added on and that gives more opportunity for problems. Better mileage might be debatable, but let's do some math. Let's say 10k miles a year and 13 MPG with a carb. TBI ups it to 15 MPG. We'll say $2.50 a gallon. Savings would be $256 annually. Almost 5 1/2 years of driving to pay for that. Is it going to run better than a carb?? Maybe... I was never impressed with any TBI equipped car back in the 80's, so I tend to not believe that claim.

Up to you, but I wouldn't spend the $$.

You couldn't have summed it up better. I did the math once and found it cheaper to drive an old car over a new car.

Alan
 
You couldn't have summed it up better. I did the math once and found it cheaper to drive an old car over a new car.

Alan

New car dealers count on everyone to not "do the math". The only time I've ever been able to even start to financially justify a newer vehicle (I never buy new) is when repairs start to exceed what a monthly payment would be. Then it's really more about reliability and convenience with some cost savings helping offset the outlay. I will admit that having something different and shiny comes into play also.... But I am a car guy.....
 
I love my classics cars but would never, ever, for one minute consider a '60's era car as a DD. New cars are more reliable, SAFER and get better mileage. Besides, my DD is pretty cool.

 
Mmmm......nah. I think the classic Dodge Charger looks way better..and always will. It was just the mentality that went into it. That same spirit isn't alive and kickin' in the modern Dodge Charger...it looks rather like a politically correct, environmentally squishy caricature of the real mcoy. Witness the extra doors in the "modern" attempt. Its like Chrysler didn't care one wit about the heritage of the car.
 
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What is a DD?
A 100 mile round trip to work each and everyday?
Back and forth to work 20 minutes away?
A jaunt to Walmart, the doctor's office, and CVS during the day and a weekend cruise?

I was the formerly the first scenario. Had to have late model cars ( nice ones, of course:p).
No matter what the conditions, I was REQUIRED to show up and be on time or there definitely would be consequences.
Now I'm the last scenario. Personally, I need a new car like I need a second *******.
 
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