It never gets old seeing just how many electrical gremlins go away simply by doing nothing else but cleaning up the grounds.
I know OP wanted a stock look to it, but I can vouch for the FBO box, doing a 2 bbl to 4 bbl swap, engine starts and runs great, using it with a fresh mopar electronic dizzy from Rick Ehrenberg. I actually bought his electronic ignition kit which had the hi rev 7500 ECU, but sold that ECU and got the FBO box because it had an adjustable rev limiter. The ECU wiring and plug in Rick's kit was perfectly long enough that I could sit the ECU right next to the battery.
Unfortunately, if you do use the FBO box, you're basically locked to the Pertronix 40011 coil, which for you guys in the US isn't really a problem what with how many retailers sell them and how cheap they are there, but here in oz, the cheapest I've found so far was from Amazon, which means we have to be Bezos enablers for this one lol. Otherwise, any aussies reading this, you're looking at more than double if buying from a local retailer.
That being said, the FBO box does come with a five year warranty which is great, people have said that they do honour it and are very great to deal with too. I know a decade or two ago these boxes were rather iffy, as people have opened their older black boxes up to reveal what appeared to be a GM HEI unit inside, but it appears that the aluminium units use their own solid state circuitry since at least 2015 or so. It does seem to get updated or revised every now and then, as the pic on the website of the innards shows 'rev 4' in the corner and I've seen older posts on this forum showing pics from their website, but it said 'rev 2' in the same spot.
You can see the corrugated split sleeve tubing covering the wire going between the dizzy connector (just behind the radiator hose). I had initially planned on bolting the ECU to the firewall just between the brake booster and wiper motor in the above pic, but the length of wire that came with Rick's ECU kit meant that the only suitable spot was right beside the battery, as the lengths of wire could perfectly reach both the ballast resistor connectors, and the dizzy's connector. Was glad I bought their jumper wire kit too, as it also comes with piggyback spade connectors so it can stay held down to the ballast resistor for better resistance against vibration.
