Hi there, currently my car motor is in bits at my local garage. The mechanic isn’t convinced the engine is a 383 as we’ve always thought. He reckons the number in the pic reads 2408518 10.... any ideas would be really appreciated. Thank you.
Engine Identification Help Please?
- Thread starter DJAstral
- Start date
Hi there, currently my car motor is in bits at my local garage. The mechanic isn’t convinced the engine is a 383 as we’ve always thought. He reckons the number in the pic reads 2408518 10.... any ideas would be really appreciated. Thank you.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
That looks like the cylinder head. If so, here are the head casting numbers...
Mopar Casting Numbers - MyMopar.com - Mopar Part Numners
Check the numbers more closely. The casting for a '67 B/RB head is 2406516 (there are sixes where you have eights 2408518), and because they are used on all the B/RB blocks, you won't be able to tell specifically what they were on.
The block casting numbers are here...
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Engine Casting Numbers 1959-1978
Also check the block ID pad. Look at this post to see where they are...
Big Block Engine Identification through pics
Newport 66
Old Man with a Hat
If it's a 383, there is an ID pad to the left (passenger) side if the distributor. A 440 will have a ID pad to the right of the distributor.
patrick66
Old Man with a Hat
The displacement is also cast into the driver side of the block, behind the starter location. Example - 2536430 440 (casting number then displacement)
@patrick66 that casting style started in the mid 70’s. I’ve never seen it on a 1972 and older block. There is no block From the 60’s that has the cubic inch cast after the part number.
DCMC
Active Member
Ok I'll mention it, great looking wagon!
Nice looking car.
When all else fails, check the piston/bore diameter. IF the carb and distributor are the ones the car came with, those numbers can possibly be easy to track in a factory service manual or other service/parts literature.
What's going on with the engine in pieces? Just curious.
Welcome,
CBODY67
When all else fails, check the piston/bore diameter. IF the carb and distributor are the ones the car came with, those numbers can possibly be easy to track in a factory service manual or other service/parts literature.
What's going on with the engine in pieces? Just curious.
Welcome,
CBODY67
Hi everyone, the mystery continues but your response has helped us establish it definitely is a 383..... thank you so much...
I stopped driving her a couple of months ago after hearing a localised knock & coaxed her gently the rest of the 2-3miles home. She is normally a really strong, quiet engine that doesn’t smoke or rattle & is regularly serviced.
The oil flow isn’t strong, and the main connecting bearing has given up on one of the pistons, number two back on driver side. Rest have no play.
The timing gear is pretty dry & gunky, and the nylon(?) teeth have started breaking up on the big cog & ended up in the oil strainer impeding flow.
To start with - I am looking for replacement shell bearings, the crankshaft journal measures 60.4mm (2.6 inches) across.
What size do I need please?
I know you usually get them in Std., 0.010-0.040”
Many thanks, Simon.
I stopped driving her a couple of months ago after hearing a localised knock & coaxed her gently the rest of the 2-3miles home. She is normally a really strong, quiet engine that doesn’t smoke or rattle & is regularly serviced.
The oil flow isn’t strong, and the main connecting bearing has given up on one of the pistons, number two back on driver side. Rest have no play.
The timing gear is pretty dry & gunky, and the nylon(?) teeth have started breaking up on the big cog & ended up in the oil strainer impeding flow.
To start with - I am looking for replacement shell bearings, the crankshaft journal measures 60.4mm (2.6 inches) across.
What size do I need please?
I know you usually get them in Std., 0.010-0.040”
Many thanks, Simon.
Greetings Simon, I would imagine that American station wagons from the 1960s aren't too common in your part of the world.
First thing I would recommend is the purchase of a factory service manual specific to your '67 Dodge. Then perhaps a measuring device with a finer resolution. Rod journal specification for a standard crank is 2.374 inches, which my inch to mm convertor calls out 60.2996mm.
Unfortunately my experience has been that there is no cheap and easy lasting repair for a failed bearing. In such a case if you had a knock and rod bearing failure, it likely the crank will need to be removed and reground to one of those bearing undersizes you mentioned, and then the connecting rod housing bore resized to factory specifications. John
First thing I would recommend is the purchase of a factory service manual specific to your '67 Dodge. Then perhaps a measuring device with a finer resolution. Rod journal specification for a standard crank is 2.374 inches, which my inch to mm convertor calls out 60.2996mm.
Unfortunately my experience has been that there is no cheap and easy lasting repair for a failed bearing. In such a case if you had a knock and rod bearing failure, it likely the crank will need to be removed and reground to one of those bearing undersizes you mentioned, and then the connecting rod housing bore resized to factory specifications. John
Hi John, thanks for this. No, there aren’t any ‘60s American cars at all here in my part of the world - just mine. I’ve had a love of them since I was a kid in the 1970s when they weren’t that old themselves!
I have all the manuals in searchable .pdf which are from MyMopar.com so will have a look & have said to my mechanic friend to do the same.
Funny how the journal measurement is slightly bigger than standard... we don’t know why.
I am struggling a bit financially just now so need an economic repair if possible, but in an ideal world I’d love a full rebuild or even a replacement motor.....
Thanks again for your advice.
The only reason I could think of the journal being larger is if the bearing transferred material as it failed, building it up, but that would be an irregular mess. Or we could be talking about different journals, the main line vs. the rods. The mains are 2.625 inches in diameter. Usually the rod journals have a tendency to start knocking and fail much more frequently than the mains.
In either example, the crankshaft journals will have to round within less than .001 of an inch variation and polished for there to be a lasting repair. The rod housing bore, round and within 2.5000 to 2.5005 inches and we would hope that there main housing bore is undamaged. With your mention of low oil pressure sounds like you may also be needing a new oil pump once you start gathering parts.
In either example, the crankshaft journals will have to round within less than .001 of an inch variation and polished for there to be a lasting repair. The rod housing bore, round and within 2.5000 to 2.5005 inches and we would hope that there main housing bore is undamaged. With your mention of low oil pressure sounds like you may also be needing a new oil pump once you start gathering parts.
OK, I'm not sure how your mechanic is measuring the journal, but when I see stuff like this, and how he seems to intend to fix it, my advice is always to find someone else to fix your car.
It's possible that there's some confusion doing the conversion back to imperial units from metric, but that shouldn't be that big a deal, but first and foremost, if you spun one rod bearing, the others aren't going to be far behind. The oiling system on those cars is pretty good, and if you have some sort of failure with a bearing, there's a reason (and we know the clogged oil screen caused it) and that reason is likely to be across the board on all the cylinders.
In other words, fix the one cylinder now, be prepared to not have it go well, if at all and if it does, also be prepared to do it all over again in the near future, only this time, doing it correctly at more expense.
I understand that it's tough financially, but somethings are a little tough to get through. It's really time to rebuild the engine.
It's possible that there's some confusion doing the conversion back to imperial units from metric, but that shouldn't be that big a deal, but first and foremost, if you spun one rod bearing, the others aren't going to be far behind. The oiling system on those cars is pretty good, and if you have some sort of failure with a bearing, there's a reason (and we know the clogged oil screen caused it) and that reason is likely to be across the board on all the cylinders.
In other words, fix the one cylinder now, be prepared to not have it go well, if at all and if it does, also be prepared to do it all over again in the near future, only this time, doing it correctly at more expense.
I understand that it's tough financially, but somethings are a little tough to get through. It's really time to rebuild the engine.
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