Exactly What Wheels & Tires Fit C Bodies?

for me, I had 15x8 3.5 bsp Center Line Auto drags on this car, same tire, 235/70and same thing happened. hard right, sidewall rub on inner quarter edge, passenger side. same thing tho on sharp lefts. i chalked it up to be more likely a little body roll changing the angles between sheet metal and tires.

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even now, with 4.0 in bsp, i can get my fingers to my knuckles between sidewall and inner lip on pass. side. on driver side, I can get my palm in there, so about 1/4 in more clearance.

oh yeah, it aint just Mopars. 235/70, 15x7.5, 4.0 in bsp, rubbed on skirt on passenger side.
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Is that a 73 Mercury? My parents had a 73 Colony Park wagon with a 460 / C-6. It was quite the barge.
 
Is that a 73 Mercury? My parents had a 73 Colony Park wagon with a 460 / C-6. It was quite the barge.

'72 Marquis, 429 "Thunderjet" 4V, by then decompressed/smogged out shadow of itself at introduction, but still with some torque left.
 
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another good example to learn from, but again maybe owner will chime in with backspacing.

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Per the specs on the American Racing website my wheels have a 4 inch backspace. They are part number VN50177012500 if that helps. Again, they are 17 X 7 and I have no issues with any interference on the body or suspension front or back.
 
for me, I had 15x8 3.5 bsp Center Line Auto drags on this car, same tire, 235/70and same thing happened. hard right, sidewall rub on inner quarter edge, passenger side. same thing tho on sharp lefts. i chalked it up to be more likely a little body roll changing the angles between sheet metal and tires.

View attachment 411081

even now, with 4.0 in bsp, i can only get my fingers to my knuckles between sidewall and inner lip on pass. side. on driver side, I can get my palm in there, so about 1/4 in more clearance.

oh yeah, it aint just Mopars. 235/70, 15x7.5, 4.0 in bsp, rubbed on skirt on passenger side.
View attachment 411080

I hate to ever admit to liking any fomoco product but that car is stunning.
 
8 inch wheels on front

just tryin' to help out with this thread.. but we do seem to like this topic all over the forum. :)

a lot of things fit our C's and many more things do NOT. and as we know, just becuase it "fits", don't make it "safe"

seems that the further we stray from OEM specs, regardless of the "look" we want, something (unless mitigated by countermeasures) is gonna get sacrificed - tire wear, driveability, safety, mechanical stresses, etc. to a trivial or possibly dangerous extent.

be safe out there.
 
In aviation it's called "the envelope", short for performance/design envelope. You will know immediately that you have pushed it too far, and usually in a very unpleasant way.

Cars are different because you can pull over and get towed home...unless you're a total ******* that races on public parkways and highways, weaving in and out of traffic like you're some kind of Formula 1 expert. I love cutting them out with the Hurst Tool. Always fun.

Back on point... You can push the envelope a little with anything, as long as it's within range of OEM. OEM is always given a plus or minus on both sides anyway. Remember, these cars actually raced NASCAR back when they were sold to the public...they used wider tires and slight mods to the original design, much like we do. So there is room...BUT.. as is human nature... I can go bigger...I can be better...I can be stronger... And I can be dead faster..

Stay in the envelope and you'll have a cool look, an eye grabber, a little better performance and be safe as well.

Trees don't make good crash barriers...
 
Figured some you you guys would get a kick of this. 275/40 r20. Friend let me borrow his wheels to see if I could get them to fit. Almost no room on the outer lip, but they physically fit. Need a bigger offset to get 295's. Yes, I have issues:realcrazy:

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Need to buy tires for my '66 Polara 500 Convertible (383) and would appreciate experienced input. Car runs well, but will need work on interior, top, paint, etc., so just try to drive it when possible to keep everything working until I can take care of that. Current tires are BF Goodrich P225/70 R14. Love the look, still have good tread, BUT at least 7 years old, possibly 12 if I'm reading date code right. Some sidewall dry rot. Just started getting vibration at 30-50 mph, and over 60. Don't want to spend $600+, just want to get safe, decent tire I can drive (in town and interstate) up to 2,000 miles/year until I get things sorted. Later will get good tires, size depending on what I do with brakes, possible upsizing of wheels, etc. Discount Tires has a 205/75 R14 GT Radial for $48 each; Walmart a 215/70 R14 for about same price. Any reason not to buy those? Thanks!

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my $0.02 chief -- only from safety point of view and my experience.

If you can see "dry rot", you do not have a "safe at any highway speed (55 mph plus)" tire. You definitely dont have any safety margin for any resemblance of lower speed "performance" (burnouts, tight turns, etc) driving. Lose a tire, you can lose much more ... not to mention sheet metal/material things. Useful life of a tire usable to its full performance spec is 6-7 years tops.

Other people set it 180 degrees from what I just said. They will go rippin/runnin' on 9-10 year old tires like nuthin. I beg them -- if strangers to in my mind .. not to do that. I am more vocal with friends/family :)

all that said, any tire newer than five years old, that (1)a esthetically appeals to you eyes, (2) meets your performance needs, and (3) your wallet should fit the bill on the safety front too. the ones you mentioned seem fine IMHO if they are meeting the three criteria above.

bon chance.
 
Appreciate that, and have been feeling a bit uneasy lately after I realized how fast 6 years has passed since I bought it and the small margin of error where I live. Will get this done this month, a cheap form of insurance and peace of mind!
 
I didn't have a spare tire and was going to get one possibly a Cooper or something that was in good shape. Talking to a buddy who has a 66 Belvedere 440 six pack 4 speed car and he asked me would you be interested in these? He pulled out 2 BFG 255/60/15 tires. He said they rubbed the outer fenders [rear] with his wheels and had very few miles and few burnouts. He said try them on the front of your Fury. Did a little number crunching and yes the are not too wide for 7 inch rims I have up front. The diameter is 27.1 inches as compared to my rear 275/60/15's which are 28 inches. I said what do you want for them? 100 bucks for both mounted balanced and we put one of your 235/70/15's as your spare. He said if you want lets try it out ,drive it for a day and decide. Anyways they have been on for a few weeks now. No rubbing and the minor rubbing problem he had was on the logo side and I don't expose that side anyways. My car ain't no Billboard! It seems to track a little better but turn ins act quicker and much more immediate. I couldn't turn it down for a 100 bucks. Still have both 235/70/15's and using one as a spare. Here are a few picks.

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1969 Dodge Polara 500 Convertible - "Rear wheels are 20x11 -12 offset (5.50" backspace) Rear tires are 335/30zr20 (13.18" wide and 27.91" tall) Front wheel are 20x9 -19 offset (4.25" backspace). Front tires are 255/35zr20 (10.03" wide and 27.02" tall)"....source - some FB
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if these make it to the end of the project, the rears may pose a "body roll/bounce" challenge due to width.
 
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1966 300

245/60-15x8 in front, 295/50 -15x10 back.

Rear leafs moved inbound about an inch to accomodate a 12 inch wide rear tires (otherwise you cant get them out back in a slabbie without some structural modification).

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Love your ride. Can i get a side and rear veiw please?
My 65 has 14s and they need to go asap and a little rake would look sweet.

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nice '65 boss.

sorry though, thats not my car. member @James Romano owns that beauty. he might have other shots of it here or if you PMed him he might be able to send you something/direct you to someplace its posted.:)

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