75LandYacht
Yank Tank
76 and up I think.. or maybe 77 and up.
Fed up with the set up !!
- Thread starter 75LandYacht
- Start date
Dobalovr
Being on the Cbody diet SUCKS!
77 and up is correct. I think they changed the name to Advanced Spark Control Computer in 1980??
cbarge
World Famous Barge in a Budget
From my personal experience..
Summit distributor with orange box.
Summit distributors already have a re-curve in them.
Your parts jobber one may have a very generic/stock advance that may come in way too soon limiting your engine's potential and efficiency.
Parts jobber ECU's are based on stock dwell-which is OK to get you out of a jam but the orange box is better for your application (big motor,big heavy car need good dwell & advance to make torque)
Edelbrock carb with electric choke. Get a tune up carb kit while yer at it.
You may have to fatten up the primary jet sizes since they are set lean right out of the box.
Ditto for the metering rods.
Play with the accelerator Pump rod adjustment for a quicker shot of fuel.She will tell you when she is happy or not.
Any aluminum dual plane intake will do as long it has the provisions for the A/C.
Block the heat crossover passages when replacing the intake to stop heat boiling the fuel out of the carburetor. Jam some new insulation in tin foil atop the turkey pan/intake gasket.Today's corn swill evaporates very quickly! Don't need heat with electric choke anyways. Insulate the fuel line with heat sheathing while yer at it.
1975 440's already have the 452 heads-that's good.
Shaving them to increase compression and doing a real good 3 angle valve job,back-cutting, opening up the bowls and port matching really help--if you want to pull the heads that is..
If your engine is healthy it should get 18-20 inches of vacuum at idle.
440's like a lot of ignition timing and should be happy at 11 degrees initial and 38 to 41 degrees all in at 2500/3000 rpm. If you get ping,you can adjust the vacuum pod on the distributor to slow the advance down, or turn down the timing until no ping.
Sometimes a good recurved distibutor may not need any vacuum advance.
Never mind what the factory specs call for-that's when they had REAL gasoline.
Test and tune,test and tune.
Bottom line.
Oh,and try to find a premium fuel supplier that has no ethanol in it...period.
Hope this helps.
Summit distributor with orange box.
Summit distributors already have a re-curve in them.
Your parts jobber one may have a very generic/stock advance that may come in way too soon limiting your engine's potential and efficiency.
Parts jobber ECU's are based on stock dwell-which is OK to get you out of a jam but the orange box is better for your application (big motor,big heavy car need good dwell & advance to make torque)
Edelbrock carb with electric choke. Get a tune up carb kit while yer at it.
You may have to fatten up the primary jet sizes since they are set lean right out of the box.
Ditto for the metering rods.
Play with the accelerator Pump rod adjustment for a quicker shot of fuel.She will tell you when she is happy or not.
Any aluminum dual plane intake will do as long it has the provisions for the A/C.
Block the heat crossover passages when replacing the intake to stop heat boiling the fuel out of the carburetor. Jam some new insulation in tin foil atop the turkey pan/intake gasket.Today's corn swill evaporates very quickly! Don't need heat with electric choke anyways. Insulate the fuel line with heat sheathing while yer at it.
1975 440's already have the 452 heads-that's good.
Shaving them to increase compression and doing a real good 3 angle valve job,back-cutting, opening up the bowls and port matching really help--if you want to pull the heads that is..
If your engine is healthy it should get 18-20 inches of vacuum at idle.
440's like a lot of ignition timing and should be happy at 11 degrees initial and 38 to 41 degrees all in at 2500/3000 rpm. If you get ping,you can adjust the vacuum pod on the distributor to slow the advance down, or turn down the timing until no ping.
Sometimes a good recurved distibutor may not need any vacuum advance.
Never mind what the factory specs call for-that's when they had REAL gasoline.
Test and tune,test and tune.
Bottom line.
Oh,and try to find a premium fuel supplier that has no ethanol in it...period.
Hope this helps.
Mr C
Senior Member
Dobalovr
Being on the Cbody diet SUCKS!
Thanks for the clarification I forgot about the 76 BB as I was recalling my SB Doba days..
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I was going to say I had LB on my 76 Cordoba.
I would check the EGR system, vacuum hoses for cracks diaphragm for leak and clean out the ports in intake and to the heat crossover if this is all blocked it will definitely cause a problem in the winter or anything below 40-45° can have carburetor icing conditions. The intake is a good one as Kevin mentioned so a overhaul of your TQ or just get a 1806 Eddy and adapter. There is a lot of vacuum lines under that hood all of which are probably shot after 40 years, I can't remember what you have left. Kinda sounds like you have a thermostatic vacuum problem.
I would check the EGR system, vacuum hoses for cracks diaphragm for leak and clean out the ports in intake and to the heat crossover if this is all blocked it will definitely cause a problem in the winter or anything below 40-45° can have carburetor icing conditions. The intake is a good one as Kevin mentioned so a overhaul of your TQ or just get a 1806 Eddy and adapter. There is a lot of vacuum lines under that hood all of which are probably shot after 40 years, I can't remember what you have left. Kinda sounds like you have a thermostatic vacuum problem.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Slight clarification on LB introduction.
Mid year for 1976.
My 76 NYB's were early production 440's. No LB.
Mid year for 1976.
My 76 NYB's were early production 440's. No LB.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
John, I went back and reread the problem and you may have two issues.
1 the stall after a run period and no restart, with Napa dist. My bro in law's dad had a problem with a Napa pick up coil car would not start so my bro in law having known extra parts started swapping when he swapped dist car started and ran good, so he puts new pick up coil in original dist and back in car starts fine runs a while then shuts off no restart day or 2 later car starts right up with battery charge he decided to go get gas car dies no restart batt dies cranking, this goes on for a while and nobody suspects pick up coil because it's new. After the umpteenth time of watching car die and nothing left to check we swap dist boom it fires up instantly, the pick up coil was basically bad out of the box. I would suspect if your car starts after sitting overnight etc. and then stalls again your pick up coil may be bad.
#2 your drivability issues may be related to EGR and exhaust crossover and or thermostatic vacuum leaks I mentioned earlier.
1 the stall after a run period and no restart, with Napa dist. My bro in law's dad had a problem with a Napa pick up coil car would not start so my bro in law having known extra parts started swapping when he swapped dist car started and ran good, so he puts new pick up coil in original dist and back in car starts fine runs a while then shuts off no restart day or 2 later car starts right up with battery charge he decided to go get gas car dies no restart batt dies cranking, this goes on for a while and nobody suspects pick up coil because it's new. After the umpteenth time of watching car die and nothing left to check we swap dist boom it fires up instantly, the pick up coil was basically bad out of the box. I would suspect if your car starts after sitting overnight etc. and then stalls again your pick up coil may be bad.
#2 your drivability issues may be related to EGR and exhaust crossover and or thermostatic vacuum leaks I mentioned earlier.
75LandYacht
Yank Tank
I've heard that these reman distributors/pick up coil's can go bad. I replaced The distributor last summer after the pick up coil went bad and everything's been working fine up until this past weekend. With the crappy weather/heavy snow we've had I haven't had a chance to go out and try to restart the car.. i'll keep you guys updated once I've attempted. You mentioned the manifold/EGR and exhaust crossover, which is why I was thinking replace the manifold and carburetor with something new and current vid hit and miss diagnosis with the OE. My question is if I replace the manifold and carburetor with the Eddie, can I delete the EGR? Or what I still need it? Also that valve on the passenger manifold, what do I do with that?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
The heat riser on pass manifold I would leave just make sure it turns freely.
The EGR can be blocked with a piece of sheet metal sandwiched between the valve and manifold or if you remove EGR valve you will need a thicker plate. The EGR valve does not hurt performance at WOT or low vacuum, it may cause drivability issues at part throttle and idle if it is not working properly, it does help suppress detonation at light load by supplying inert gas to combustion chamber (exhaust) leaving less oxygen to burn too fast and too hot making bad exhaust emissions. Your call I would block the EGR. The TQ is your choice, spend the bucks to have it done by a place like Harms, get a kit and make sure you spend the extra on brass floats be cause the plastic ones accumulate particles and start to weigh more and cause wrong float bowl level and DIY. Buy a Eddy 1806 and follow the manual to get it set well.
The EGR can be blocked with a piece of sheet metal sandwiched between the valve and manifold or if you remove EGR valve you will need a thicker plate. The EGR valve does not hurt performance at WOT or low vacuum, it may cause drivability issues at part throttle and idle if it is not working properly, it does help suppress detonation at light load by supplying inert gas to combustion chamber (exhaust) leaving less oxygen to burn too fast and too hot making bad exhaust emissions. Your call I would block the EGR. The TQ is your choice, spend the bucks to have it done by a place like Harms, get a kit and make sure you spend the extra on brass floats be cause the plastic ones accumulate particles and start to weigh more and cause wrong float bowl level and DIY. Buy a Eddy 1806 and follow the manual to get it set well.
moper
Well-Known Member
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It sounds simply like it needs an actual diagnostic and repair. When these cars were on the road in great numbers the carbs were rebuilt every few years, or every 30-40K miles. From what you describe you don't know if it has no spark. You do know the carb was misbehaving. The choke stove is only one peice of the carb's cold-start system. There are also pull offs that assist in the not-at-running-temp-yet situations. You don't need an intake. You don't need a new ignition. You may only need basic repairs. But what you definately need is a mechanic, or a factoey service manual, or both. You can pull the coil wire from the cap and lay it near something metal, leave the key on, and jump the fender relay to check for spark. You can check the resistor by jumping it. A volt meter will tell you if the ignition switch is working. A hand-held vacuum tester will tell you if the pull offs are functioning. And if it's never been done - the carb needs a rebuild "just 'cause".
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