The hipo 375HP TNT motor in my 300 Hurst has those 'performance' factory manifolds so close to the valve covers that every few years they have to be changed just due to the heat which dries out the gaskets, makes them brittle, and then they start to weep. There is an exhaust manifold gasket which has an upper additional 'flap' that sticks up between the manifold and the valve cover that helps preserve both the gasket and also the paint on the valve cover itself. Can't remember who makes it. Looks a little goofy, but solves two problems.
Fel-Pro cork Valve cover gaskets SUCK!
- Thread starter Blue 300
- Start date
marty koirtyohann
Well-Known Member
victer reinds r the only ones i can get to seal on my 440 the rest leak way too fast
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
I use fel pro with no issues.
Be sure the valve cover flange is not distorted.
Glue the gasket to the valve cover, clean the mating surface on the head. No sealant on the bottom side.
A dab of red locktite on the cover bolts/screws.
Torque to spec. Re torque after a couple of heat cycles.
Same applies to the oil pan gasket.
I try to avoid using silicone sealers.
Be sure the valve cover flange is not distorted.
Glue the gasket to the valve cover, clean the mating surface on the head. No sealant on the bottom side.
A dab of red locktite on the cover bolts/screws.
Torque to spec. Re torque after a couple of heat cycles.
Same applies to the oil pan gasket.
I try to avoid using silicone sealers.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Trick is gluing gaskets to VC. I use the yellow 3M trim adhesive, some don't like that because too hard to remove from VC. Rtv needed when head casting is just that uneven.
ALRUI
Active Member
40 inch pounds, correct?
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
So far the Fel Pro cork valve cover gaskets I used last Fall are doing nicely. The trick is, TORQUE TO SPEC. Don't go OVER, lest you distort them. Don't go under, or the oil will slide out. If ONLY I had no other oil loss issues than that, but alas, valve guides are fukt WAY over....... BUT, my cork gaskets are good! 
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Those appear to be a VERY SENSIBLE means of blocking heat from rising to where it isn't of any use. I might have to get these next time I take the exhaust loose from the heads....
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Did you use the Moroso recommended 80"lbs torque?
Or did you go with the factory torque of 40"lbs?
Thanks!
I just snugged them down with a 1/4 ratchet and give it a half turn more . I don’t use a torque wrench . For me I do it by hand . No need for a lot of torque . After that, I’ll let the car idle for a while till it’s up to temp and check for smoke / leaks. Then I go for a cruise or two and check them again. Easy peasy
3175375
Senior Member
I have ditched all stamped steel valve covers for aluminum that have machined surfaces that mate with a steel impregnated silicon valve cover. Problem has vanished.
What covers do you use? Sounds interesting.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
1970 Fury Convertible 440/727.
I spent a lot of hours cleaning, priming, painting, and installing stock valve covers. Aluminum not an option, although pics would be cool to see.
Stock valve covers torqued at 40"lbs. I may have overtorqued, but Moroso generic directions are 80"lbs. Of course, that is all makes and models.
marty koirtyohann
Well-Known Member
i only used victor reinz gaskets Gaskets and Sealing Products from the Leading OE Supplier | Victor Reinz
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks, but Moroso 93055 are already installed on my car, so I am going to at least try them. I was asking Welder Guy about torque before I run the engine for the 1st time with the new valve cover gaskets.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
What gasket silicone did you use? Thanks!
I’ll check after work today and get back too you .
I've had these aftermarket covers on my 440 for almost 20 years. Never had any leaks.
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