Firm Feel vs Steer & Gear

[Big_John]

That's pretty damn hard. Not a very knowledgeable hockey fan but yeah, I realize that freezing is part of a puck's life....as opposed to underhood temps!

Exactly. I don't have a durometer or even access to one now, but I'll bet that coupling is a lot softer and more pliable.

 

[saforwardlook]

Yeah, buy a car with torsion quiet ride, and then muck it all up with a piece of aluminum to transmit all the road vibrations/noise from the steering system every minute you drive. The Land Rover part is fully useable and not hard to change and inexpensive. I at least value a quiet, smooth car.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

That's all true and fine, but I didn't really buy the car for its 48 year old "torsion quiet ride". And frankly there's no NVH associated with the alummy part, at least not anything that can be discerned in an old car with plenty of other squeaks and rattles and bias tires and custom exhaust and so on.

Had I thought to order the Land Rover part ahead of time, that would have been great. But I got caught out and had to quickly procure the Bouchillion item. My impression is that it's just fine...my hands aren't bleeding from steering wheel vibration.

 

[saforwardlook]

That's all true and fine, but I didn't really buy the car for its 48 year old "torsion quiet ride". And frankly there's no NVH associated with the alummy part, at least not anything that can be discerned in an old car with plenty of other squeaks and rattles and bias tires and custom exhaust and so on.

Had I thought to order the Land Rover part ahead of time, that would have been great. But I got caught out and had to quickly procure the Bouchillion item. My impression is that it's just fine...my hands aren't bleeding from steering wheel vibration.

I guess we are just different individuals. I don't let squeaks and rattles exist in my cars, despite their age. I fix them, otherwise the car annoys me and is no pleasure to drive. Nor would I drive on bias ply tires either or have custom exhaust. You might as well just drive a Chevy. A Chrysler 300 Hurst deserves better!

 

[cantflip]

Yeah, buy a car with torsion quiet ride, and then muck it all up with a piece of aluminum to transmit all the road vibrations/noise from the steering system every minute you drive. The Land Rover part is fully useable and not hard to change and inexpensive. I at least value a quiet, smooth car.

I guess we are just different individuals. I don't let squeaks and rattles exist in my cars, despite their age. I fix them, otherwise the car annoys me and is no pleasure to drive. Nor would I drive on bias ply tires either or have custom exhaust. You might as well just drive a Chevy. A Chrysler 300 Hurst deserves better!

Steve, I completely understand where you're coming from in all this... but I have to say that I'm just thrilled to see a safe repair vs duct tape, chewing gum, hockey pucks, etc. IDK if I would say this is what everyone needs, but at least nobody will be swinging the wheel 180* trying to go straight because of one.

 

[NewportRbod]

I forgot to mention that Bouchillion sends Lollipops with their products!

View attachment 263283

Free suckers...now I'm sold. Getting serious though, I need to tighten up the steering on my (gasp!) R body Newport. Before going to a full box replacement I want to verify the box is adjusted properly, parts are serviceable, and seals are not worn or dried. The rag joint has always been the first place to look for me. It seems to always be worn, mushy, or cracked.

 

[NewportRbod]

I guess we are just different individuals. I don't let squeaks and rattles exist in my cars, despite their age. I fix them, otherwise the car annoys me and is no pleasure to drive. Nor would I drive on bias ply tires either or have custom exhaust. You might as well just drive a Chevy. A Chrysler 300 Hurst deserves better!

OUCH-drive a chevy?! THAT WOULD BE HORRIBLE PUNISHMENT. Myself, I'd like to just reduce the slop and make the system more durable.

 

[66polyfury]

I’ve got a ‘66 fury, and was disappointed to find out the Bouchillon part wouldn’t work for me either. I bought 2-3 Dorman replacement rag joints from O’Reilly’s and stacked them together for the fix.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I’ve got a ‘66 fury, and was disappointed to find out the Bouchillon part wouldn’t work for me either. I bought 2-3 Dorman replacement rag joints from O’Reilly’s and stacked them together for the fix.

Outstanding work-around. Cheap, too!

 

[66polyfury]

Thanks! I especially like where it says, “Part doesn’t fit 1966 Fury III” LOL

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Thanks! I especially like where it says, “Part doesn’t fit 1966 Fury III” LOL

Yeah, I thought it was pretty cool that Bouchillion makes it very clear regarding fitment:

Updated Steering Isolator
We Finally have an all NEW Replacement Isolator Design......After all the problems Chrysler experienced over the years with there original design, we recently made a new design from T-6 Billet Aluminum. Resembles the original in outward appearance, but does not flex. That is where most people get confused. They were not originally designed to flex constantly but act as an insulator/isolator of the road vibrations, noise and steering inputs. This recently released design bolts exactly back into the original location. Generally, the only modification required is just realign the base of the steering column lower jacket support (the plate that supports the lower part of the steering column to the firewall) so both steering sections/shafts are a straight , one peice assembly. Your Plunge Joint at the steering box becomes the steering shaft flex coupler, as it was designed to be.

NOTES:

1-Some Applications had a pilot on the firewall for the lower column support plate. Some applications , this must be removed or modified to accomodate true alignment of Steering Shaft.

2-Will not work on 1966 & earlier C Bodys or B Bodys that had the original Rubber design (#3575303)

3-This Item is intended and tested for OFF Road Use ONLY. All Liability for usage, other than the intended usage, is assumed by the installer and/purchaser.

4-This Replaces the Original MOPAR # 3575303, & BPE 2119, 2119A, 2119B previously made Isolators

5-Works well on 67 & later C bodies & 1973 and later B Bodies

 

[66polyfury]

Nice looking part though and Bouchillion produces quality parts. I bought their throttle/kick down assembly and have been very pleased with it.

 

[swisherred]

Somewhere I totally missed a post about land rover parts? What are you referring to?

 

[swisherred]

I'm curious...what about lares part 202? Might that be usable?

 

[saforwardlook]

Steve, I completely understand where you're coming from in all this... but I have to say that I'm just thrilled to see a safe repair vs duct tape, chewing gum, hockey pucks, etc. IDK if I would say this is what everyone needs, but at least nobody will be swinging the wheel 180* trying to go straight because of one.

Somewhere I totally missed a post about land rover parts? What are you referring to?

I was not advocating the alternative approach that you are glad didn't happen either Jeff (and the way the coupler was designed by Chrysler, even if the rubber sections became separated, the coupler could not come apart causing one to lose steering capability - slop yes, but not total lack of steering). I was only saying that the Land Rover part would be a better approach than the aluminum non-isolated part, at least for those who want to keep the original intention to isolate the passenger compartment from road shocks/noise. The steering column shafts as mounted in our cars using the Chrysler isolator were usually not aligned straight going into the steering box from the factory. But they need to be aligned using the Bouchillion aluminum coupler - not always easy or successful - see thread referenced below for others' experiences with them).

Why is Bouchillion claiming that their aluminum puck is intended for off road use only - maybe because if the steering column shaft is not aligned straight on with the steering box, there could be stress issues over time that might cause the steering system to fail?

All of these issues have been discussed previously at length in this thread including where to buy the Land Rover part (please note that in the 5th post in that thread, I was incorrectly cited as having for sale a Bouchillion billet - I did not):

Steering coupler needed

 

[cantflip]

I was not advocating the alternative approach that you are glad didn't happen either Jeff (and the way the coupler was designed by Chrysler, even if the rubber sections became separated, the coupler could not come apart causing one to lose steering capability - slop yes, but not total lack of steering). I was only saying that the Land Rover part would be a better approach than the aluminum non-isolated part, at least for those who want to keep the original intention to isolate the passenger compartment from road shocks/noise. The steering column shafts as mounted in our cars using the Chrysler isolator were usually not aligned straight going into the steering box from the factory. But they need to be aligned using the Bouchillion aluminum coupler - not always easy or successful - see thread referenced below for others' experiences with them).

Why is Bouchillion claiming that their aluminum puck is intended for off road use only - maybe because if the steering column shaft is not aligned straight on with the steering box, there could be stress issues over time that might cause the steering system to fail?

All of these issues have been discussed previously at length in this thread including where to buy the Land Rover part (please note that in the 5th post in that thread, I was incorrectly cited as having for sale a Bouchillion billet - I did not):

Steering coupler needed

Thank you, Steve. I think the "off road only" thing is the simple way around product liabilities... consumer protection is really more like just another industry for lawyers to specialize in.

I wouldn't beat up anyone for choosing the aluminum piece, but I can see where misalignment could be hard on bearings. The vibration issue is going to have to be an individual one in my opinion... there will be differences in similar cars, and different owner expectations as well. It may even help an owner who wants more "feel" in their wheel...get a little closer to the feel of their modern car.

I like the isolated part better too, the Land Rover piece wasn't an easy success for everyone either, if memory serves... it too will eventually rot and become obsolete. I would still go for it, if I was to have to deal with this problem. I just didn't want to condemn the aluminum solution, as you pointed out, due to alignment differences it could be more of a problem on one car than on another.