I very briefly considered bonding the four pieces back together to get myself out of the jam I was in, but I figured 1) the old rubber would soon tear 1/128ths of an inch away from the bond, 2) I didn't want to do this again, and 3) with a phone call to them I found I could get the Bouchillion item before I actually needed to put the car back together. I also considered making one from a hockey puck (which I have several here in Florida as jacking pucks for my Vette), but decided the precision of the Bouchillion item was a safer bet.Did the other options include using some high-heat black silicone to put the old biscuit back together? Just curious.
What exactly is the purpose of this part and why is it rubber while the new one is aluminum?
If your lower steering column and the steering box aren't lined up perfectly-which most aren't, that aluminum puck will NOT be such a good thing.
Your head is on right, the aluminum version solves the problem permanently... I did use hockey pucks once, as cab mounts one an old P/U, long, long ago... they really don't hold up to alternate uses as well you'd hope, and NOS is likely to crumble pretty quick too. IMO, if you don't feel too much additional vibration through the steering wheel, this is a fully successful repair. If the vibration is more than you like, it's still a safe repair, but then you may as well enjoy the lollipop... sucker...I must disagree. This OEM biscuit was never intended to be a flex joint for a misaligned steering shaft. It is quite robust in its construction (think *hockey puck*) and would allow very little “u-joint” action, if any at all. That is the function of the pot coupler.
This biscuit is for vibration isolation at the wheel. Most other Mopars don’t have it at all.
The alumny item is just fine. If someone has shaft alignment problems, they have bigger problems than this joint.
It's a solid piece of metal, it should last five hundred thousand years.A while back, Bouchillion (they told me) made a rubber version, but they didn't like it. The alummy version should last approximately five-hundred-thousand miles. Or longer.
I did use hockey pucks once, as cab mounts one an old P/U, long, long ago... they really don't hold up to alternate uses as well you'd hope, and NOS is likely to crumble pretty quick too.
It's a solid piece of metal, it should last five hundred thousand years.
Well you see....that's where you're wrong. Haven't your heard? The world is going to end in 2030 if we don't embrace the Green New Deal.
At the top of AOC's target list is guys who own old Mopars....
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FWIW, at freezing, a hockey puck is 90-91 durometer on the Shore A scale.True about the pucks. You'd think they would last forever in any use, but even when used when jacking a car (to protect a Vette frame and the fiberglass rocker panel from the jack) they start to crumble a lot sooner than you would expect, given their apparent roubustness. I guess they're made for hockey....
The high-heat environment near the left exhaust manifold wouldn't improve matters.
Imagine what a sucker I would have felt like if I had cheeeeped-out and used a hockey puck, only to have it disintegrate in a year.
FWIW, at freezing, a hockey puck is 90-91 durometer on the Shore A scale.
We used to have to check the sample pucks for a company that tested goalie masks. They'd fire them out of an air cannon at the masks.