rags
Senior Member
yep, shroud. lot of overheat threads. as said above seems like factory cooling is borderline n.g. converted my '69 non a/c 440 car to larger a/c radiator, wall, fan, shroud from a new yorker parts car. runs cool.
For some reason my car hates heat!
- Thread starter Fury440
- Start date
I have yet to find a shroud for my 22" that is reasonably period correct or OEM any suggestions for make/model/application I can look for in my search?
Check the 1970-1971 parts book to see if a shroud was offered and if it was, do a Google search for the part number.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Check the lower rad hose is not collapsing
If it is you need a coil inside if you can flatten with your hand
I've had personal experience on this in the past
A quick test too is to rev the engine a few times really quick and watch the hose to see if it gets sucked flat
If it does this is the problem to start with
If it is you need a coil inside if you can flatten with your hand
I've had personal experience on this in the past
A quick test too is to rev the engine a few times really quick and watch the hose to see if it gets sucked flat
If it does this is the problem to start with
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
But he says it's at idle when the issue comes up, not higher RPMs.
Interesting, maybe I should buy a 22" rad for the carcass and get them to make it new.
Washer bottle - yes please!
I've never seen a 22" shroud, so it's either swap out the rad frame for 26" or go the bike tire/fibre glass route. Neither solution appeals to me.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I had a 66 Fury with the 22" radiator.
A 26" radiator bolted right onto the existing radiator frame.
Bill, what cars used a 22" shroud. I should definitely find one.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Well ... midnight shopper time ..
I just did some parts list digging and discovered ..
so they do exist but I don't every remember seeing one. I wonder where they were sold, maybe hot places where AC wasn't popular. Possibly fleet vehicles where the purchaser was too frugal for AC unless it was an executive ride.
Graham, what does your search computer say about 2998 330 ?
repro shrouds are made for a, b and e bodies. check ebay. maybe they can be made to work.
the trick is finding the brackets.
the trick is finding the brackets.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I would get on the phone or email Dante ASAP as he will be in Carlisle next week. Do you have anyone that can bring it home for you from Carlisle as he will not charge for shipping if he has one and it get's picked up in Carlisle. If needed, I can pick it up at Carlisle for you if you at pay for it and arrange it for me to pick it up. If you can't find someone to ship it to you, I would be willing to do that for you if Dante will not ship to Canada. Dante is great to deal with. I am already picking up 2 things from in at Carlisle.
Bill
Bill
I just emailed Dante to see if he has these in stock.
I use Paul's address in Athol, Idaho and have it carried to Calgary by one of the local guys running back and forth. Before I order from Dante I'll do some digging up here first, buying US these days is tough with our Mini-bucks.
FYI, Dante has one left in stock.
Thanks Bill
Well I got everything buttoned up and let the car sit at idle until the temp stabilized. My dash gauge reached about 1/3 scale and the external gauge read about 185-190 when the defroster vent started to "vent" steam like some kind of hot spring. At first thought, the freaking heater core leaking. The same symptom that I had at the start of this thread, except at that time the external gauge was around 230F. Initially I was happy with this conclusion and decided to just bypass the silly heater which I never use anyway. However, after sleeping on it, something ain't right. At roughly 230F steam can form in the engine, but not so much at 190F unless I've got some kind of water jacket issue in one of the heads or some localized hot spots within the block.
The exhaust looks normal, no white smoke. The new overflow bottle worked perfectly, when the engine was hot the level in the bottle rose almost to the "full when hot" line and after an over night cool down the level returned exactly to the "full when cold" level. So it doesn't appear like I've lost coolant. Looking in the rad, the coolant is clean looking with no oil. Looking at the engine oil, the oil is clean, clear, no water.
So where is the steam coming from? I'm thinking I should go buy a rad pressure tester and pump it up to spec and see how long it takes to bleed down. If it drops fast, I'll bypass the heater core and test again. However if it holds pressure then I'm not sure where to look next.
Breaking news.
It seems a rad tester is around $200, too much for one test. Anybody local got one that I could borrow, or just bring it over and we'll do a test, have a barley pop and swap a few lies.
Last edited:
