CanCritter
Senior Member
autovalue rent these like their pullers ect?...think it was autovalue
For some reason my car hates heat!
- Thread starter Fury440
- Start date
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
@Fury440 Canadian Tire has a loan-a-tool program. Loan-A-Tool | Canadian Tire
General Service Tools | Canadian Tire
General Service Tools | Canadian Tire
Great idea, forgot about renting. I think they have an outlet around this end of town.
Been pondering this "steam" thing. If I had a crack in the block/head or bad head gasket or a holy heater core then would the system still hold pressure enough to make the overflow bottle work. Granted it takes 16 psi to get past the cap, easy to do if its boiling, but as the engine slowly cools it has to hold vacuum enough to suck the coolant back into the engine. Too much thinking and not enough action!
Meanwhile, my beer frig crapped out. The condenser fan died and there doesn't appear to be an easy replacement.
American made and it only lasted 43 years.
Found a guy about 6 blocks is selling a nice new 2011 Frigidaire made in Charlotte NC for $100. If he returns my email I'll have cold beer again!! We'll see if "new" made in America is as good as the "old" made in America.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Did you check the lower rad hose?
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
You gotta have priorities. You can't have cold beer without a fridge, but you can without a car, so get that fridge!Great idea, forgot about renting. I think they have an outlet around this end of town.
Been pondering this "steam" thing. If I had a crack in the block/head or bad head gasket or a holy heater core then would the system still hold pressure enough to make the overflow bottle work. Granted it takes 16 psi to get past the cap, easy to do if its boiling, but as the engine slowly cools it has to hold vacuum enough to suck the coolant back into the engine. Too much thinking and not enough action!
Meanwhile, my beer frig crapped out. The condenser fan died and there doesn't appear to be an easy replacement.
American made and it only lasted 43 years.
Found a guy about 6 blocks is selling a nice new 2011 Frigidaire made in Charlotte NC for $100. If he returns my email I'll have cold beer again!! We'll see if "new" made in America is as good as the "old" made in America.
rags
Senior Member
assembled in America with Chinese parts. you and wolfen should compare notes. he's a two steps ahead of you.
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
I'm watching....
It isn't... but the beer won't care so long as it stays cold.We'll see if "new" made in America is as good as the "old" made in America.
Don't know if I got the Frig or not, no response to my email yet! Seems these Kijiji and Craigslist sites are cruised by the used stuff dealers and they grab everything they can resell and make money. Goes against the grain to pay some dude $300 for a product he bought for $100 and hopes it runs until he unloads it. Might just as well buy a new one with a warranty.
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The chronicle continues.
Didn't get the Frig although I did find a replacement fan but it doesn't seem worth while to pay $100 for a $10 fan and put it in a 40 plus year old frig.
Went shopping for a rad tester and found instead a Drill Doctor on sale for half price. Over the years I've bought hundreds of drill bits that I chuck into box when dull. After a couple of days my box is empty and I now have 3 complete 64 bit drill index boxes and a whole bunch of loose bits all nicely sharpened. I even split-point all the bits over 1/4". Been meaning to do that for 20 years!
Back to the Fury, I've decided to eliminate the heater core and instead of trying to loop hose between the 1/2" and 5/8" waterpump fittings, I'll remove the fittings and insert plugs.
So question, what is the waterpump hole size 5/8" npt and 1/2" npt or are they both the same at 1/2" npt??
Didn't get the Frig although I did find a replacement fan but it doesn't seem worth while to pay $100 for a $10 fan and put it in a 40 plus year old frig.
Went shopping for a rad tester and found instead a Drill Doctor on sale for half price. Over the years I've bought hundreds of drill bits that I chuck into box when dull. After a couple of days my box is empty and I now have 3 complete 64 bit drill index boxes and a whole bunch of loose bits all nicely sharpened. I even split-point all the bits over 1/4". Been meaning to do that for 20 years!
Back to the Fury, I've decided to eliminate the heater core and instead of trying to loop hose between the 1/2" and 5/8" waterpump fittings, I'll remove the fittings and insert plugs.
So question, what is the waterpump hole size 5/8" npt and 1/2" npt or are they both the same at 1/2" npt??
Well 4 weeks later I'm still playing with this stupid heater! Before I do anything with shrouds etc. I need to either fix the leaking heater core or bypass it. The thought of pulling the old core out, but finding a replacement and getting it all back together strikes me as just too much work for a heater I'll probably never use. So I've decided to bypass the heater completely.
My first idea, pull the heater hoses from the water pump housing and jumper with a short length of hose. Ok so the silly hoses are a different size, 5/8" ID and 1/2" ID. So remove the nipples and insert plugs, which by the way is how Ma Mopar did it on heater delete cars. Anyhow I pulled the hoses and looked at the nipples.
Let me tell you, those babies are really tight, like welded tight. I tried a big washer and a crescent wrench, bent the washer. I tried penetrating oil and channel locks, wouldn't didn't budge. Did some Google research and found the plumber dudes use an Interior Pipe Wrench. So more searching found them at Home Depot.
Heck of a theory, but not quite. They are designed to fit inside 3/4", 1/2" or 3/8" pipe, but the nipples are 5/8" and 1/2" OD not ID. The small one, 3/8" ID pipe, fits into the 5/8" nipple, but not tight enough. I could get it to lock, but after putting as much load as I could get with a 1/2" drive ratchet without any nipple movement, I decided to quit before I broke something. However, before giving up I used a big pair of vice grips and a hammer also with zero success. I figure those nipples are rust welded. Any further down this rabbit hole and Ièll screw up the nipples and will have pull the who housing off the engine.
So now I'm looking a 5/8" 180 deg bypass hose connected to the 5/8" hose with a 5/8" to 5/8" connector and using a 5/8" to 1/2" connector for the other side. For anyone waning to do it this way, the NAPA part numbers are:
UNR 9904 - 5/8" to 5/8" connector
UNR 9910 - 5/8" to 1/2" adapter
UNR 10700 - 5/8" molded hose 180 deg bend
I think I'll insert the loop just past where the heater hoses are clipped to the wheel well.
Well off shopping again!
BTW I did manage to pickup a $50 Frig to keep my "pop" cool!
My first idea, pull the heater hoses from the water pump housing and jumper with a short length of hose. Ok so the silly hoses are a different size, 5/8" ID and 1/2" ID. So remove the nipples and insert plugs, which by the way is how Ma Mopar did it on heater delete cars. Anyhow I pulled the hoses and looked at the nipples.
Let me tell you, those babies are really tight, like welded tight. I tried a big washer and a crescent wrench, bent the washer. I tried penetrating oil and channel locks, wouldn't didn't budge. Did some Google research and found the plumber dudes use an Interior Pipe Wrench. So more searching found them at Home Depot.
Heck of a theory, but not quite. They are designed to fit inside 3/4", 1/2" or 3/8" pipe, but the nipples are 5/8" and 1/2" OD not ID. The small one, 3/8" ID pipe, fits into the 5/8" nipple, but not tight enough. I could get it to lock, but after putting as much load as I could get with a 1/2" drive ratchet without any nipple movement, I decided to quit before I broke something. However, before giving up I used a big pair of vice grips and a hammer also with zero success. I figure those nipples are rust welded. Any further down this rabbit hole and Ièll screw up the nipples and will have pull the who housing off the engine.
So now I'm looking a 5/8" 180 deg bypass hose connected to the 5/8" hose with a 5/8" to 5/8" connector and using a 5/8" to 1/2" connector for the other side. For anyone waning to do it this way, the NAPA part numbers are:
UNR 9904 - 5/8" to 5/8" connector
UNR 9910 - 5/8" to 1/2" adapter
UNR 10700 - 5/8" molded hose 180 deg bend
I think I'll insert the loop just past where the heater hoses are clipped to the wheel well.
Well off shopping again!
BTW I did manage to pickup a $50 Frig to keep my "pop" cool!
Yup tried pulling those nipples off a 360 intake ....FORGET IT!
Looped hose is the answer Im afraid. I'm going to Idaho next month if you need anything from Paul...
Looped hose is the answer Im afraid. I'm going to Idaho next month if you need anything from Paul...
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
I feel your pain. When I replaced the water pump on my 500, I wanted to reuse the nipples in the old one. Not a chance in hell that they would come out for me, even out of the car.
What are you having restored???
rags
Senior Member
could the pipes be tapped and plugged? also there are coolant by-pass caps.
I've seen some guys really heat up the area around the pipes with a torch and also apply a lot of PB Blaster. This usually works. . .
What are you having restored???
My sanity.....
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I sawed the nipples off flush and then used a screw extractor.
It was a do or die moment.
If the screw extractor didn't work, I was f****d.
It was a do or die moment.
If the screw extractor didn't work, I was f****d.
That's pretty gutsy! All I can envision happening to me if I tried that is a broken extractor and having the mess permanently sealed with brazing rod.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
A couple days of penetrant, heat, turning the extractor one millionth of an inch at a time, and going to church.That's pretty gutsy! All I can envision happening to me if I tried that is a broken extractor and having the mess permanently sealed with brazing rod.
