traintech55
Senior Member
Now you know how everyone else feels. Maybe that is why the posts have dropped of on the site.
Friggin brakes. Air getting back in the system
- Thread starter 67Monaco
- Start date
I would try opening the bleeders one at a time and see which circuits give air. don't do a full gravity bleed JIC it's the master. You can crack the line fittings loose there to see if that's where the air is after you've checked at the wheels.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
At this point I suspect the calipers. But I'll do what you suggest. We'll see.
Done did some research today. Scarebird brackets with a slight modification to fit the disc balljoint bolt pattern, and I'll be good to go with the rest of their suggested parts. If I go that way.
Done did some research today. Scarebird brackets with a slight modification to fit the disc balljoint bolt pattern, and I'll be good to go with the rest of their suggested parts. If I go that way.
67Monaco
Old Man with a Hat
Well I ordered a new test mule rotor for mock up. 1970 T-bird rotor. Change the races to set2 and set6, like scarebird does. So far it's cost me grand total of $6.34. I'm looking at a caliper and bracket from a '05 Magnum RT. I'll need another adapter from the factory spindle caliper mount to the magnum's bracket. But it should get me there fairly quickly and inexpensively.
On another note. I was out for a spin today. No loss of brakes. No need to pump. Did a 90mph-0 stop and no issue, pedal stayed firm and no gradual fall to the floor. If this holds I'm going to abandon the rotor/caliper/bracket nonsense.
The issue? Bleeder valve(s). Or more specifically cheap Chinesium bleeder valves. Noticed the fluid in the reservoir for the front was getting milky. I know that's water. so moisture was/is getting in somehow. So some google and bing foo later someone had the exact same symptoms I am having and it was traced back to bad bleeders. Since I didn't ship the old ones back for the core charge yet I pulled em and cleaned up. Swapped them out and this is what I saw;
Bleeder on the right was gouged all to hell. Matter of fact internal hole was also dry when I pulled it. The left, the drivers side, the internal hole was wet. The factories were still smooth so what the heck. Bled the brakes and went for a drive. Felt nice, no fade.
So now I'm off to get new fluid and flush the whole thing again. Then I'll let it sit and see if the symptoms return.
If it works I'm going to be ecstatic.
On another note. I was out for a spin today. No loss of brakes. No need to pump. Did a 90mph-0 stop and no issue, pedal stayed firm and no gradual fall to the floor. If this holds I'm going to abandon the rotor/caliper/bracket nonsense.
The issue? Bleeder valve(s). Or more specifically cheap Chinesium bleeder valves. Noticed the fluid in the reservoir for the front was getting milky. I know that's water. so moisture was/is getting in somehow. So some google and bing foo later someone had the exact same symptoms I am having and it was traced back to bad bleeders. Since I didn't ship the old ones back for the core charge yet I pulled em and cleaned up. Swapped them out and this is what I saw;
Bleeder on the right was gouged all to hell. Matter of fact internal hole was also dry when I pulled it. The left, the drivers side, the internal hole was wet. The factories were still smooth so what the heck. Bled the brakes and went for a drive. Felt nice, no fade.
So now I'm off to get new fluid and flush the whole thing again. Then I'll let it sit and see if the symptoms return.
If it works I'm going to be ecstatic.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
The bleeder scews. 
Sonnovabich.
Sonnovabich.
At least the ChiCom quality control is up their usual standards of excellence. Lol!.
Dave
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