front end rebuild what brand?

Wonderwagon

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Starting the process of determining what brand to purchase for components, moog seems popular among the retailers, how does quality of Rare Parts compare. Obviously Rare Parts are more expensive, american made, better quality, what is collective opinions? plugging all this into a spread sheet to evaluate kits, what's included, price, alternative resources for components not included and the like
 
you got all the body work done and the stub frame ready to get done now.....?
 
What you can't get in Moog you go to Rare Parts and hope they have it.
 
Yes, body work is complete, paint is on time to make it a roller. Yes, been looking at Just suspension, PST, A Resto, and Rare parts. Per Stan been staring at FSM, to familiarize with it. Said spread sheet has mopar part #, FSM sections and vendor info and part numbers. Thanks in advance
 
Check out Canadian brand XRF chassis parts. The reviews on those were so good i went with those. They are not auto parts store junque. These are auto repair shop jobber only. I'd be wary of moog unless you are buying old made in U.S.A. MOOG in dusty old boxes.
 
you need the commando list. its here somewhere. he did it, then me and zmurgy or someone else did it, then a bunch of people, etc. its the best prices and everything you need.

try not to die -

- saylor
 
One of our members here, mobileparts, has a huge inventory of suspension, brake & several other parts for our cars. He has several of the brand name, older stock(before they were made in China) parts. I believe he is out of Long Island NY. I have bought from him in the past & it has been all good. Quality part, knowledge, & a good price. His name is Craig. Look him up & send him a message. Lets support one of our own when we can.
 
I'd be a little weary about buying old NOS rubber parts. I mean if that's all you can get then by all means but I think Moog is still providing a quality part in spite of where it's made. Believe me, I hate when things aren't made in the states but I'm not going to buy antique rubber parts of any kind if I can avoid it. Just my .02...
 
Moog has good quality parts.

I also bought NOS parts that were in excellent condition.
 
Why not go polyurethane on the upper and lower control arms? Its easier than replacing rubber with rubber, as the outer shells stay in the arms if buying polyurethane sleeve bushings. They will outlast your lifetime. Grease em on installation and no squeaking.
 
Why not go polyurethane on the upper and lower control arms? Its easier than replacing rubber with rubber, as the outer shells stay in the arms if buying polyurethane sleeve bushings. They will outlast your lifetime. Grease em on installation and no squeaking.

Polyurethane tends to make the front end of a "C" body ride kinda hard. I went with the poly sway bar bushings but the Moog rubber pieces everwhere else. Car feels great. Big car is fun to drive now.
 
Thank you, thank you, so PSt, Just Suspension, A- Resto kits/ parts are repackaged Moog or????. Down side to the XRF is they are North of the border, will still give em a look. On some of the chevfor sites, a very mixed bag on polyurethane bushings, namely squeaks even when lubbed. rapidtrans that was my thought too using poly only on the sway bar. A shout out to mobileparts, we chatted a couple of weeks ago, and reviewed commando1s post to build the parts list
If interested and for future reference happy to share the spread sheet if interested, if so instructions on how to post. Cheers from North of the border for a few more cold weeks.
 
Got my XRF upper and lower ball joints, and inner and outer tie rod ends at www.mibearings.com . You use the moog PN but add the XRF prefix in front of the moog PN. Example XRF K781 is an A body lower ball joint. Not sure what they got for C body lower ball joints, however they have the big ball joint upper ball joints, i had to use them for my disc conversion, and larger C body inner and outer tie rod ends.

When you thread in any new upper ball joints i recommend installing at minimum 2 tack welds from the joint to the upper control arm on the zerk fitting side this will prevent the joint from possibly loosening up.
 
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Here is the spread sheet I have come up with
20170405_131744.jpg
analyzing steering and suspension components from the various suppliers, with cost, kit content and the like, think it's correct. Let me know if you find any mistakes and if there is a better way to post.
 
So, how do we attach a pdf file. Anyone, anyone, anyone? If interested PM me a email we'll send a pdf off to ua polara71
 
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