Finally got my dream car : 2-dr 300!

[CitronPresse]

A guy not too far from me offers me a rebuild brake booster

It's not identical to mine in appearance...

But he tells me that it will fit (my car is a 69 power brake with front drums), someone could confirm it to me?
Sorry for all the questions I did some research on the net but hard to find something :/

That would be great if you could get the parts directly! No AM radio! Chris Parnell would be disappointed. The dashes are the same from '69-'72 on Chrysler's, but there were so many different radios offered, I can't tell you if it would fit. I keep the one in the dash for looks, and install a new deck in the glove box, if you do this, be sure to get a deck with a remote. Lots of guy's are praising those Bluetooth speaker's.

I hadn't thought of modern radio hidden in the glovebox, good idea!

I love those early 70,s chunky looking lincolns.Love them.They are my 2nd tier favorites in full size luxe boats. I just like chryslers more.There,s a subtle sinister quality to them that say,s i,m big and bad.heh.B>B

Hehe in sinister style his previous Lincoln (a black 70 4 door) was even cooler

But I prefer his white 2 door

Ooooh.Sweet LIncoln.Lovely Imp.What more could a guy want?B.B

Mmh...a 65 NewYorker, a 68 300, a 69 300, a a 72 Caddy Deville, a 71 and 76 Buick Electra and Centurion, a 71 Mercury Marquis, a 69 Mercury Marauder and a 71 Ford LTD?

 

[CitronPresse]

C Bodys look better lowered around 1-2inches IMO if its possible
My 300 with DeTomaso Pantera wheels. LOL, I worked on Renault 5 and DS back in the 70's.80's, do the headlights turn with the steering? also had a 1,4 Gordini for a while
My 300 with a 2" drop...".before it was Trendy"
View attachment 366203

Ahah awesome!

I didn't think there were big old Chryslers in UK, even less in 80s!!

Yes my DS has the directional headlights ;)

Your 300 is beautiful, do you still have it?

 

[Kram Edyorloh]

LOL, no Sir, I wish. I have a '68 Fury Conv im doing at the moment.
I have had prob 40 cars since then all MOPAR, still have my RR though after 37 years.
C Bodys amongst others were sold new here...

..... you know about the MOPAR dealer in the 60's/70's on the Champs Elysees? and the HEMI Cuda found in an underground carpark?...sorry for spelling, 40 years since I did French LOL

 

[CitronPresse]

LOL, no Sir, I wish. I have a '68 Fury Conv im doing at the moment.
I have had prob 40 cars since then all MOPAR, still have my RR though after 37 years.
C Bodys amongst others were sold new here...

..... you know about the MOPAR dealer in the 60's/70's on the Champs Elysees? and the HEMI Cuda found in an underground carpark?...sorry for spelling, 40 years since I did French LOL

Wow!
I didn't think they sold Mopars new in Europe between mid-60s and mid-80s
They must have been particularly rare!

 

[3C's & a D?]

That booster does "look" good. You still have to question some people's definition of "rebuilt". Also, it doesn't look like any OEM model I've ever seen, with that Y stamping on the front. What does he claim it's from?

 

[CitronPresse]

That booster does "look" good. You still have to question some people's definition of "rebuilt". Also, it doesn't look like any OEM model I've ever seen, with that Y stamping on the front. What does he claim it's from?

I contacted him again, he told me that the part comes from a '67 B-body, so I really doubt it fits on my car, but he tells yes, because the bolt-pattern between the 4 studs (those crossing the firewall) is good (4-1/8 x 3-1/4)
However the main rod could really be longer or shorter since it comes from a B-body, I can't measure it before my part is removed so impossible do determine for now if it fits
He offers me both (master-cylinder + booster) for 250$CAD and he assures me that he will refund me if doesn't fit so it's tempting but I still thinking it won't fit so I'll keep looking

The ideal should be to find the Cardone no503500 (master-cylinder + booster) but it seems to be back-order everywhere... (I tried 8 local parts shops chains and on Rockauto and Summitracing I have to send them mine and wait for it to be rebuilt)
And I can't pay 400$ + 400$ shipping for a brand new one on eBay so I'll have to wait until the refurbishing shop near to me reopens after the corona crisis


Other news: I brought my fuel tank to the radiator shop: they told me the first time I contacted them that they were rebuilding it completely (boiling + sandblasting + lining) for 250$+tx, the price increased to 435$+tx then 625$+tx when they saw it so I ordered a brand new tank for 590$+tx, and they found the fuel sending unit: according to them it would be the same as on a 63-64 Chrysler, I have some doubts but I'll see what it looks like...my fear is that the connection for the fuel gauge is different, but I'll carefully test the part before installing the tank
I think
1) connect the gauge connection and play with the float to see if the indicator moves on the dash
2) plug the unit on the fuel pump and crank the starter to see if the "sock sucks"

Would any of you do it differently?
I should get the new unit and tank this afternoon

Thanks for your help!

 

[3C's & a D?]

There are alot of variables with boosters, which is why it's usually best to have the one that came with the car rebuilt. 250 for a rebuilt booster and master cylinder is a great deal! Will it fit? Maybe. Will it work? Possibly. If you can't find one anywhere else, and can't have yours rebuilt any time soon, and trust the guy to refund your money if it doesn't work, it may be worth a shot. First thing to check - the bolt spacing at the firewall. If that doesn't match, you're back to square one. Edit - I see it is the same. Then, check the pushrod to pedal length, it can be a little longer or shorter, but not much. I hope it works out for you! And, hold onto your old master. 400$ shipping??? It's going to need to come out, so you may as well pull it, and know what exactly you're looking for.

2) plug the unit on the fuel pump and crank the starter to see if the "sock sucks

Don't bother doing this, that will only test the pump, which judging by the rest of your fuel system, will need to be changed. And of course, replace all rubber hoses, and clean the long steel line as best you can, if it doesn't need replacing, which it probably will, again, judging by the tanks condition. I'm not sure about the year crossovers, it wouldn't surprise me if they were the same. I'll try to find the thread which details brand new sending unit resistance testing.

 

[3C's & a D?]

Gas Gauge Fix
Electrical & Ignition

The magic numbers for that are 10 ohms for full, 23 ohms for half and 74 ohms for empty.

I'm trying here, computers aren't my forte.

Fuel gauge

There we go!

More great info linked in post # 4, thanks to Big John!

 

[brougham brummel]

Damn it i love cars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I want an Imp. I want a Marauder.I want a lovely early 70,s Lincoln.I want a 6 barrel Fury GT!!! Iwant! I want! I want! I want!.Heh.At least i know what i wantB.B

 

[brougham brummel]

Oh.I want a 68 Javelin or it,s sister AMX> Love those cars.B.B

 

[CitronPresse]

The last news!

I got my brand new tank and the sending unit

It hurts the wallet ($625 US) but at least I'm okay for a long time!

I carefully checked the sending unit, the manufacturing quality doesn't seem as good as the OEM part: the float and sock are made of cheap plastic, the gauge wiring isn't made in the same way...
However it works: I plugged it and the gauge moves on the dash!

But the sock doesn't arrive at all where it should in the bottom of the tank...

Probably because this part is designed for a 63-64 Chrysler (they told me it was the same)

It probably would have worked anyway, but I don't want an imperfect, poor quality part, so I returned it to the shop, and ordered this one:
1967-1973 C-Body - 5/16 inch fuel tank sending unit

After all it's not my 2005 Toyota, I think it's normal to be attached to the details and want to have something well made and durable...

It costs me $50 US less shipped at my door and it's the right model, with the same design as the original (it'll reach the bottom of the tank), the sock is made of fabric/canvas and the float of brass, like the OEM!

I'll receive it within 2-3 days, I'll replace the rubber fuel lines while waiting

The old fuel filler neck was full of surface rust like the inside of the tank, but not perforated so they sandblasted it, I'll paint it to protect it

All I will miss is a compressor to clean the steel fuel lines before trying to start the engine with the fueling system instead of a fuel can!

There are alot of variables with boosters, which is why it's usually best to have the one that came with the car rebuilt. 250 for a rebuilt booster and master cylinder is a great deal! Will it fit? Maybe. Will it work? Possibly. If you can't find one anywhere else, and can't have yours rebuilt any time soon, and trust the guy to refund your money if it doesn't work, it may be worth a shot. First thing to check - the bolt spacing at the firewall. If that doesn't match, you're back to square one. Edit - I see it is the same. Then, check the pushrod to pedal length, it can be a little longer or shorter, but not much. I hope it works out for you! And, hold onto your old master. 400$ shipping??? It's going to need to come out, so you may as well pull it, and know what exactly you're looking for.

I think you have summarized the situation very well...
The question of the rod's length remains pending until I have removed my master-cylinder/booster, so I'll wait until I have done that before confirming my order...but I'm a little scare to start remove the master/booster, it seems that it's difficult for someone who has little experience in mechanics
So for now I move on to other parts, including the fuel system

Don't bother doing this, that will only test the pump, which judging by the rest of your fuel system, will need to be changed. And of course, replace all rubber hoses, and clean the long steel line as best you can, if it doesn't need replacing, which it probably will, again, judging by the tanks condition. I'm not sure about the year crossovers, it wouldn't surprise me if they were the same. I'll try to find the thread which details brand new sending unit resistance testing.

I hope that the steel lines and the pump are good, at least the pump was functional when I get the car
But a new pump costs $50 so in the worst case it's not a big deal

The long steel fuel line (from rear to front) could be more problematic if it's shot

Gas Gauge Fix
Electrical & Ignition
The magic numbers for that are 10 ohms for full, 23 ohms for half and 74 ohms for empty.
I'm trying here, computers aren't my forte.
Fuel gauge
There we go!
More great info linked in post # 4, thanks to Big Dave!

Fantastic!! Big thanks again!!
I love this kind of thread

Damn it i love cars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I want an Imp. I want a Marauder.I want a lovely early 70,s Lincoln.I want a 6 barrel Fury GT!!! Iwant! I want! I want! I want!.Heh.At least i know what i wantB.B

Hehe you make me think that I forgot a model in my fav' list: the '70 Sport-Fury 2-door hardtop
What a beautiful car, at one point I almost turned to this model instead of the 300!
But they are even more expensive, and less huge

 

[brougham brummel]

Heh.And the 69 had that subtle body curve shaping running atop the door and curved upward along the door pillar.It really set this year apart from the other years when that subtle,beautiful feature vanished.I bet you love that car.You would be surprised how many cbodies are up in canada on Kijiji website sometimes.Congrats.B.B

 

[3C's & a D?]

Sweet! New parts. Definitely worth getting the right sending unit. Is the old grommet good? And careful painting that tube. Originally they were bare galvanized, like the tank. Don't get any paint inside or around the end that goes in the tank. If you do, it'll flake off once exposed to gas, and possibly clog the sock. Do you now how long this car sat for? I've never seen one of those necks rusted, and that tank was awful.

You don't have to be extremely mechanically inclined to do a booster, mostly just flexible! Clean around the two brake lines, remove, seal lines with plastic and tape, remove four bolts attaching master to booster, remove master, unplug vacuum line, remove fender brace, starter relay. Then crawl under the dash and remove the bolt holding the pedal to the booster, then the four bolts holding the booster, they can be fun, I use a deep 1/4" drive ratchet with a universal joint and an extension. Reverse for installation.

If it pumps, let it pump! If the long steel line isn't good no worries. Reproductions are made, shipping is a bunch though due to the size. Not hard at all to bend your own, with a roll of tubing, a simple tubing bender, a flare tool, and some patience.

 

[CitronPresse]

Heh.And the 69 had that subtle body curve shaping running atop the door and curved upward along the door pillar.It really set this year apart from the other years when that subtle,beautiful feature vanished.I bet you love that car.You would be surprised how many cbodies are up in canada on Kijiji website sometimes.Congrats.B.B

I know that there are a lot of C-bodies on Kijiji and others (Facebook marketplace especially) but I hardly ever see a 2-door 69-71 300

Sweet! New parts. Definitely worth getting the right sending unit. Is the old grommet good? And careful painting that tube. Originally they were bare galvanized, like the tank. Don't get any paint inside or around the end that goes in the tank. If you do, it'll flake off once exposed to gas, and possibly clog the sock. Do you now how long this car sat for? I've never seen one of those necks rusted, and that tank was awful.

The grommet was dry cracked, they ordered a new one with the tank ($16 CAD)
For the filler neck it wasn't rusty outside I don't know why they sandblasted the outside ahaha
But the inside was covered with this sort of cristallized rust found in the tank, so I asked them to sandblast the inside ;)
Good note thanks! I'll be careful not to paint the edges of the neck!

I don't know exactly when the car was stopped for the last time, the old man who was the first owner (who sold it to my seller in 2017) kept a diary of everything he did with the car in a little notebook...the last mileage record dates from november 1990 at 86,750mi, then I see he that he released the car for 5 days in october 1991...then nothing until an oil change in september 2001 at 88,893mi, so he did 2243mi between 1991 and 2001, probably rather around 1991/1992
I'm pretty sure that the car was stored from around 1992
The oil in the engine must date from 19 years so I can't wait to change it

You don't have to be extremely mechanically inclined to do a booster, mostly just flexible! Clean around the two brake lines, remove, seal lines with plastic and tape, remove four bolts attaching master to booster, remove master, unplug vacuum line, remove fender brace, starter relay. Then crawl under the dash and remove the bolt holding the pedal to the booster, then the four bolts holding the booster, they can be fun, I use a deep 1/4" drive ratchet with a universal joint and an extension. Reverse for installation.

Ooh said like that I admit that it's not that scary, you reassure me
I think I'm going to try! It would allow me to have the part in hand and to be ready to bring it to the rebuilding shop as soon as it reopens
My many bad experiences with mechanics (other than the basics like changing oil or brakes) are largely due to the fact that I have always worked in poor condition...on the ground in the street or gravel, on rotten canadian cars, with unsuitable tools, in freezing cold and especially with little time

Now that I have a garage (small and unheated but still), many more tools than in my younger years and a nice car that I plan to keep, I intend to gain resourcefulness
Again, thanks for you advice, they are precious!

If it pumps, let it pump! If the long steel line isn't good no worries. Reproductions are made, shipping is a bunch though due to the size. Not hard at all to bend your own, with a roll of tubing, a simple tubing bender, a flare tool, and some patience.

Yes I see what tool you are talking about (the tubing bender), I hadn't thought of that, it's true that it's common and affordable, for the ends it's another story but why not?

 

[CitronPresse]

While I'm at it, I could post some pictures that I had in reserve!

The location on the block where the engine number should be engraved...nothing there, proof that it's an engine replaced under warranty by Chrysler

Higher on the block is the date, 1973...proof that the dealers didn't always put an engine to specs conform to the year of the car when they replaced an engine under warranty

The first owner had always complained that his engine made an abnormal noise...
Tired of being harassed, the Chrysler dealer ended up replacing the engine under warranty and installed it in the Charger of a customer who was looking for a 440...
The engine blew out after 2 hours of driving
It's the seller who told me this story that the first owner (I'm the third owner) has told him

Very little info on the front pad on the block...
I think that 718 is for July 18, so probably July 1973...the car was almost 5 years old when they replaced the engine
I don't think that the warranties lasted as long at the time but maybe the dealer saw the opportunity to resell a 1969 440 at a great price while providing work for its mechanics?

Then here's what you find when you open the trunk...

An old spare wheel (maybe the original one?) with a Fina bias tire, the original bumper jack, the trailer wiring (the car was mainly used for the holidays with a camper trailer) although the trailer hitch has been removed, 2 old belts, the original wheel covers and a lot of blankets and carpets of all kinds

The original "tablecloth" trunk mat is still there!!

You will have other pictures once I have removed the carpets and reattach the spare and its accessories in their place

Now the underside of the car

There is some surface rust and the original coating that comes off but for a canadian car it's exceptionally sound, I didn't see any rust hole!
The body is full of small surface rust spots so I was worried about the condition of the portion under the rocker moldings but it shouldn't be that bad

The muffler isn't really good, but it'll be enough while waiting for me to install a dual exhaust with 2 Magnaflows or something like that

I was surprised to find these strange rear shocks...

Until I found these documents in the glovebox (with all other paperwork from the car)

Adjustable Armstrong air shocks, dating from July 1973 (26,000mi) they are shot, but it's still a fun find
The contract says "lifetime warranty", I want my brand new shocks now!

Speaking of the other papers here they are:

The original paperwork: 1969 Chrysler operator's manual in english and 1969 general Mopar car operator's manual in french (I'm in Quebec), warranty booklet and the Airtemp system manual, although my car doesn't have A/C

A bunch of old road maps and "accident reports" (I don't know how you call them in english)

And the notebook which traces the whole life of the car...the mileage and the date of each oil change, each storage in the fall and "unstorage" in the spring...

-Engine overhauling at 23,500mi and 25,400mi (no dates)
-Engine replacing under warranty at 30,000mi (no date either)
-Fuel filter + radiator hoses July 1982 (71,600mi)
-Air filter + windshield + backglass kit (?) July 1984 (77,200mi)
-Battery April 1985 (79,000mi)
-Muffler + driveshaft U-joint + rear brakes adjusting May 1983 (79,300mi)
-Brake booster + rear brakes + a tune-up (spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor and ignition wires I suppose) at the dealer August 1985 (so my brake booster is not original!)
-Thermostat + radiator + exhaust manifold trap (?) June 1989

 

[3C's & a D?]

Looking good! The engine warranty story is great! Reminds me of a time when I was a teenager riding a city bus which I had spent countless hours riding on many others'. Usually at the back, right over the engine. One day, the engine on the bus I was on was making a very different sound than any of the buses I had ever been on. So I walked up and let the driver know, he said that he didn't hear anything and told me to go sit down. Not even four blocks down the road, the thing throws up thick black diesel exhaust for ten seconds, lets out an incredible whine, and I'm sure seized on the spot. So, we got off and waited for the next one. I made sure to make eye contact with the driver and smiled. He didn't smile back.

That tire is definitely old, but I don't believe is the original spare. '71's had the dual super skinny white walls, but skinnier yet. And they came with "Name brand" tires originally, Goodyears, Firestones, and the like, never heard of fina.

Do you by chance have the receipt for the Armstrong's? If you do, they will give you new shocks! They would be air though, which I wouldn't recommend. I did the shocks on my '70 Newport a couple of years ago and the front one's still had the Monroe lifetime warranty sticker on them, and I had the original warranty card similar to the one you have, and I have the pleasure of dealing with one of the most experienced and knowledgeable part's guys on the planet! Shout out to Gary, at Gary Auto! So nothing to lose right? So I brought them and the warranty card in, mostly as a joke, he looks at them and says, "do you have the receipt?". I'm like, uhh, no. He says "too bad, if you did, I could warranty them for you"!

 

[CitronPresse]

Looking good! The engine warranty story is great! Reminds me of a time when I was a teenager riding a city bus which I had spent countless hours riding on many others'. Usually at the back, right over the engine. One day, the engine on the bus I was on was making a very different sound than any of the buses I had ever been on. So I walked up and let the driver know, he said that he didn't hear anything and told me to go sit down. Not even four blocks down the road, the thing throws up thick black diesel exhaust for ten seconds, lets out an incredible whine, and I'm sure seized on the spot. So, we got off and waited for the next one. I made sure to make eye contact with the driver and smiled. He didn't smile back.

Ahahaha epic

That tire is definitely old, but I don't believe is the original spare. '71's had the dual super skinny white walls, but skinnier yet. And they came with "Name brand" tires originally, Goodyears, Firestones, and the like, never heard of fina.

Too bad
But at least it looks old
Thanks for the info!
Fina was an european oil company (like Total, Shell or Esso), I didn't know they produced tires

Do you by chance have the receipt for the Armstrong's? If you do, they will give you new shocks! They would be air though, which I wouldn't recommend. I did the shocks on my '70 Newport a couple of years ago and the front one's still had the Monroe lifetime warranty sticker on them, and I had the original warranty card similar to the one you have, and I have the pleasure of dealing with one of the most experienced and knowledgeable part's guys on the planet! Shout out to Gary, at Gary Auto! So nothing to lose right? So I brought them and the warranty card in, mostly as a joke, he looks at them and says, "do you have the receipt?". I'm like, uhh, no. He says "too bad, if you did, I could warranty them for you"!

Yes I have the receipt but it mentions that the warranty is applicable only for the buyer (first owner of the shocks)

 

[3C's & a D?]

Yes I have the receipt but it mentions that the warranty is applicable only for the buyer (first owner of the shocks)

One more reason to have a parts guy on your side. You have all necessary documents, how is Armstrong going to know you're not the original owner? Are they going to send the warranty police over to check your name against the original owners name? Not that it matters, shocks are cheap. Start spraying those upper shock bolts with penetrating fluid. The side that has the exhaust is usually on there pretty good.

 

[LocuMob]

When I worked at a parts store, I'd have pushed that warranty job right on through. Like Carmine said, who's going to know the difference.

 

[CitronPresse]

One more reason to have a parts guy on your side. You have all necessary documents, how is Armstrong going to know you're not the original owner? Are they going to send the warranty police over to check your name against the original owners name? Not that it matters, shocks are cheap. Start spraying those upper shock bolts with penetrating fluid. The side that has the exhaust is usually on there pretty good.

When I worked at a parts store, I'd have pushed that warranty job right on through. Like Carmine said, who's going to know the difference.

Hehe it's true that I have nothing to lose trying

However, I can't find any trace of this company on the net, I think it no longer exists