Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion

Yeh.
I could sit here all damn day with a sack of washers and still get the same results. Can't see it with the naked eye but there must be an irregularity with the surface where the washer sits.
 
Wuts the best way to drain the MC....turkey baster? OR maybe it doesn't have to be drained...I've got plugs.
 
Yeh.
I could sit here all damn day with a sack of washers and still get the same results. Can't see it with the naked eye but there must be an irregularity with the surface where the washer sits.

Don't give up and chance it... what I would do... look for a thicker ring... try more than one parts store, hardware, etc. You want one that just fits over the threads or if it has a raised area at the base, that. Different copper seals exist, any shop that does european cars likely has a selection from a company called Wurth. They may let you match an old one from their selection. Don't go aluminum, I dot know if there is a compatibility issue, but I have never seen aluminum sealing rings used in brake service. Search Dorman products and you can find the dimensions on their rings... don't sweat a few thousandths on the circle, but pay attention to the thicknesses. And don't tell us it can't be tightened anymore until you have broken something (kidding, sort of) sometimes the imperfections you are wondering about kick anyone's butt... its about smashing the washer into them so too much torque does happen sometimes. No, I do not want you to brake your hose ends, just don't leave them leaking. Have you checked the depth of the holes yet?
 
Don't give up and chance it... what I would do... look for a thicker ring... try more than one parts store, hardware, etc. You want one that just fits over the threads or if it has a raised area at the base, that. Different copper seals exist, any shop that does european cars likely has a selection from a company called Wurth. They may let you match an old one from their selection. Don't go aluminum, I dot know if there is a compatibility issue, but I have never seen aluminum sealing rings used in brake service. Search Dorman products and you can find the dimensions on their rings... don't sweat a few thousandths on the circle, but pay attention to the thicknesses. And don't tell us it can't be tightened anymore until you have broken something (kidding, sort of) sometimes the imperfections you are wondering about kick anyone's butt... its about smashing the washer into them so too much torque does happen sometimes. No, I do not want you to brake your hose ends, just don't leave them leaking. Have you checked the depth of the holes yet?
It's not a leak; in fact its not even a SMALL dribble....ya can't notice it unless your right up on it. I wish it would fit perfectly; like its supposed to - but its not...so enough is enough with it. There are bigger fish I need to catch.
 
It's not a leak; in fact its not even a SMALL dribble....ya can't notice it unless your right up on it. I wish it would fit perfectly; like its supposed to - but its not...so enough is enough with it. There are bigger fish I need to catch.

OK, relax a while... you're good for sitting and maybe a test drive, but any fluid is a leak in a brake system. In fact very rarely one happens that you can't find the fluid, but it manages to suck air enough to give a spongy pedal. I know this has gone on for too long. Just please wash it thoroughly with water and see if it gets wet again in a few days... maybe your good, but please error on the side of caution with brakes.
 
I don't think this is going to be a problem but ya I'm def going to wring it out during a couple test drives before any "real" street time just to be sure. The pedal feels nice too but see whut its like during the test drive.
 
Did a "pre" - test last evening in the driveway. Back down the driveway and back up....slow stops, and a couple hard stops going forwards and backwards. The pedal feels pretty good...no spongy feeling, but its not hard as a rock either. Once the discs grip....they stay gripped. Got enough guts to drive around the block last night ..after all the traffic mostly cleared. Again the brake feel great coming and going. I parked in the garage over night so that if there were any leaks it would show up on a board I have underneath the parking area. NADA.
So went out on the roads this morning..into traffic. Didn't seem as if there were any problems. If they calipers are dragging can it be heard? Rode around for a good while, came back and took some shots. Oh, and found a great spot for the disco switch.

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So I just wanna say "THANKS" to ALL of you who commented and/or gave up some piece of advice to help me get through this...."saga". It all helped to get me over the finish line....which I thought I'd never see.

AND for those who posted pics and diagrams.....those were EXTREMELY helpful and went a long way in giving me focus: Commando1, Big_John, Snotty, Traintech55.

AND most of all to SF66TC, who supplied the step but step instructions (WITH pics as well) and cell phone calls to guide me along when I had no idea WTF I was doing.

...but I'm glad its over.
 
Disco switch is ground side, right? That way even if it gets dislodged or pinched, it wont do any unauthorized welding for you. I like it though.

Now burnish those new brakes and enjoy.
 
Disco switch is ground side, right? That way even if it gets dislodged or pinched, it wont do any unauthorized welding for you. I like it though.

Now burnish those new brakes and enjoy.

So I guess no one is going to answer me with an actual answer
 
:lol:Oops... sorry...

Maybe you can find someone around here who understands computers enough to find 70N_PORT's fire thread... There must be someone here...
 
Battery DISCOnnect...

Thanks Stan that's what i was thinking but wasn't sure
:lol:Oops... sorry...

Maybe you can find someone around here who understands computers enough to find 70N_PORT's fire thread... There must be someone here...

Ahh yes I recall. As a fried of mine used to say "Its all coming together now" LOL
 
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