GBsPanhead
Active Member
Was a good read last night! I fell asleep at the computer late into the night yesterday! Wife woke me up, and said 'OMG, what are you doing now'! lol
Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
- Thread starter 70_NPORT
- Start date
Was a good read last night! I fell asleep at the computer late into the night yesterday! Wife woke me up, and said 'OMG, what are you doing now'! lol
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
ha,ha it was quite an adventure, I just dove into it because I wanted disc's upfront. I never would've gotten thru it all without the help of some of the people here. I'm gonna be doing my heater core later towards the end of the summer.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Welcome back. You've been missed!!
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Lol, thanks.
JasonKaw
New Member
Are those pdf files still available? The links are bad for them now.
Robert69FuryIII
New Member
Needing some help with drum to disc conversion. I purchased a conversion kit,
LEB-FC2003-8405 and LEB-RC2001. The problem is the brake booster that came with the kit does not fit. I am on my second or third effort and LEED Brakes says the only solution is to drill holes in the firewall.
LEB-FC2003-8405 and LEB-RC2001. The problem is the brake booster that came with the kit does not fit. I am on my second or third effort and LEED Brakes says the only solution is to drill holes in the firewall.
I'd use a stock booster. Once you get that GM piece mounted, I'll bet that the geometry of the push rod is going to not even be close.
Andrew Douglas
Member
i was able to get a reman brake booster and master cylinder from rock auto.com for my 67 T&C.
I just realized what an idiot I am for not thinking of this sooner... start an LLC, sell $400 worth of random parts for 4x the investment, sit back comfortably knowing that no one will ever make it work without liability derailing modifications, and wrap up the LLC at the first sign of trouble. With a little though, I bet I could do it without warehousing anything.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Wow, four whole years....seems like I muddled my way through this just last week.
BigBen
Member
I used the scarebird brackets and sourced everything from local parts store. They give you complete list of parts that are proven tried and fit correctly. I did mine in 2016 total cost for all parts
Was under 800.00 and I have big 4 wheel discs
11 3/4 rotor up front 11 1/4 rotor rear with working parking brakes. And to all the haters . no I dont care that all the parts were not stamped mopar.
I care about stopping safely and saving hard to earn money. I used brake booster for 1968 polara with front discs and a proportioning valve to help dial in rear optimum pressure.
Do yourself a favor and look into scarebird
If your not an hard core purist or semi wealthy enough to buy NOS OEM parts to adapt.
Was under 800.00 and I have big 4 wheel discs
11 3/4 rotor up front 11 1/4 rotor rear with working parking brakes. And to all the haters . no I dont care that all the parts were not stamped mopar.
I care about stopping safely and saving hard to earn money. I used brake booster for 1968 polara with front discs and a proportioning valve to help dial in rear optimum pressure.
Do yourself a favor and look into scarebird
If your not an hard core purist or semi wealthy enough to buy NOS OEM parts to adapt.
BigBen
Member
Call a company in Orange California called ABS power Brake inc 714 771 6549 they do custom system parts and should be veey helpful
BigBen
Member
Yes I did. Works great we had to search for a longer brake hose than they recommended for the rear. But all the parts are readily available at most parts stores. On my 68 polara the end of rear axle was just a little to big around for the rotor center hole. So we took out the axles turned the ends in lathe to fit the rotor standard size hole and resealed the differential at the same time. Figured I will probably need new rotors long before I need new axles parts cost me under 800.00 in 2016 when it was completed
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't call myself a "purist"....in fact far from it.....and I'm DEF not wealthy (sure as **** wouldn't hang around this joint if I were, hahaha). Seriously though I wanted to keep my conversion as "Chrysler as possible" for the ease of it (not that this was easy). I envisioned a hodge podge of OEM/after market/"insert manufacture name here" parts wrenched to work together if I went the other way ànd just did not want that. Seems like either way gets the job done though.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Welcome back Lego boy.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
"Lego boy" --- thx (I think, lol).Welcome back Lego boy.
GBsPanhead
Active Member
Just about to start this project. Have all my new rotors, pads, caliper rebuild kits, seals, hoses etc, and OEM calipers and spindles/brackets. Before I start pulling old parts off....is it absolutely necessary to replace the master cylinder and brake booster for a different style...designed for a disc brake setup? I thought I saw where it wasn't necessarily required, but I could be wrong. I currently have drums upfront, along with power booster/brakes. If I for sure need a different MS and booster, I'll have to wait before I start this project. I don't want to start pulling stuff apart, to find I in fact did need these two additional items. Thanks for any info!!
69polara440
Member
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