Getting more power in a C body

[edbods]

how about putting in a TKX? I'd imagine that in a manual you'd get a lot more power going to the wheels and less being lost to the torque converter in the 3 speed 727. Especially since these didn't have lock up converters until a few years later.

 

[Norwegianmopar]

how about putting in a TKX? I'd imagine that in a manual you'd get a lot more power going to the wheels and less being lost to the torque converter in the 3 speed 727. Especially since these didn't have lock up converters until a few years later.

I think we will end up with a stroker eventually, maybe a 383/496 to keep a stock appearance. The trans will then get a shift kit, new converter and a trans cooler in case we want to install a trailer hitch for pulling a camper.

For now it's converting to electronic ignition and driving it as is.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Just a note on small v/s big. Back about 25 years ago I had a 1997 Ford Explorer with a 302 FI and averaged 600 km on a tank of fuel. That was driving from Edmonton to Kelowna going though the Rocky Mountains. One of the guys I worked with had the same 97 but with the 4.0 l V-6. He could only get 350 km to a tank driving on the flat. In the mountains he had to stop at every gas station.

Qua Erat Demonstrandum! Yes, as the OP pointed out, the right sized engine will be MORE efficient than an undersized one attempting the same task.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I think we will end up with a stroker eventually, maybe a 383/496 to keep a stock appearance. The trans will then get a shift kit, new converter and a trans cooler in case we want to install a trailer hitch for pulling a camper.

For now it's converting to electronic ignition and driving it as is.

Wise Man! I use a modest shift kit on my 1966 727, w good result. The old 11" converter does fine, and I've got a couple more. I have a B & M tranny cooler, and having such upline from the radiator ATF cooling tank does your entire engine and trans a favor by cooling the ATF BEFORE it dumps heat into the engine coolant. Get a nice stacked plate tranny cooler when you get one.

I use a venerable NOS CD ignition with the original breaker point ignition which allows one to just push a button and switch back to the breaker point straight connection if the simple CD board for whatever reason dies. For the present, it works nicely with platinum spark plugs. One can tell the difference, and notice how the breaker points never burn up when using such a simple, elegant improvement. Mind you, the stock Hall Effect CD ignition which Mopar adopted by 1972 works very well. Be SURE to use genuine OEM Mopar stuff. The Hopster* can furnish you best in this....

* Halifaxhops

 

[Norwegianmopar]

Will freshen up the engine this winter and have found a set of 906 heads and I am also looking for a stock 4 bbl intake and perhaps Hi-Po manifolds as well.

In that regard we need a new cam and lifters etc as well as a carb, and my question is which cam do you recommend us getting?

We want a cruiser with good torque and want enough vacuum for the AC etc too, so no lumpy bumpstick that has the car shaking at idle.

The trans is stock as is the 2:76 rear end as far as we know.

Some has recommended us getting an Edelbrock Performer setup, but I think I want the stock appearance tbh.

All input is appreciated as always.

 

[496 polara]

Get an aluminum intake and paint it engine color. Between the air cleaner and the a/c compressor no one will ever know. Except your wallet paying for shipping those heavy cast iron parts. Same for the heads and no need for those hi po manifolds either unless you are willing to pay for looks. They won't make any difference in power but they do look cooler for sure.
A set of 440 source heads painted engine color as well will help power everywhere.
If the old cam is still working fine and not worn leave it alone.
Consider switching to a hyd roller cam setup for the next engine unless you can find an older grind nos camshaft and lifters and don't mind taking the chance with a new engine.

 

[Just Carbs]

Get an aluminum intake and paint it engine color. Between the air cleaner and the a/c compressor no one will ever know. Except your wallet paying for shipping those heavy cast iron parts. Same for the heads and no need for those hi po manifolds either unless you are willing to pay for looks. They won't make any difference in power but they do look cooler for sure.
A set of 440 source heads painted engine color as well will help power everywhere.
If the old cam is still working fine and not worn leave it alone.
Consider switching to a hyd roller cam setup for the next engine unless you can find an older grind nos camshaft and lifters and don't mind taking the chance with a new engine.

I'm down for all of that. Except the cam. New hyd roller cam technology does wonders for an old school motor.
So, Edelbrock Performer intake, 440 heads and an up-to-date roller cam.

 

[Norwegianmopar]

So, I have a 1970 383/727 out of an Arizona police pursuit car with 34k miles which will go in our 67 Newport Custom. In that regard I wonder if there are any aftermarket oil pans that will fit our car since the shape is different from what's on it now.

Yes I can use the one on our current engine, but that one will be gone thru and put aside in stock condition so a new pan would be preferable.

Any input on where to buy one?

 

[496 polara]

Any A body or C body pan should work.Mancini racing sells an A body oil pan package but shipping is probably a bear overseas.

 

[Norwegianmopar]

This seems like a good fit:

Oil Pan - 6 quart - A or C body with tie rod relief - EXTRA THICK

 

[330dTA]

I used the 440 Source ”6 quart Hemi pan”. Fits perfectly, if you don’t mind it protruding a bit below the stub frame. Shipping directly from CA to FI was not expensive, and they shipped it quickly.