Harmonic balancer.

carguy300

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I have a quick question, is there an easy way to press balance back on? I tried a rubber mallet to tap it on. Only goes so far, I dont know if thats a good idea anyhow. I pulled back off, the fsm mentions a tool to press back on. I dont want to mess anything up doing it wrong. Any imput would be great.

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Clean the balancer and the crank well, lube. Line up the balancer with key, tap on till balancer resists. I have a longer crank bolt I use to install the balancer, your bolt may reach to pull on your balancer. Lots of lube on the crank end, bolt and washer.
 
Clean the balancer and the crank well, lube. Line up the balancer with key, tap on till balancer resists. I have a longer crank bolt I use to install the balancer, your bolt may reach to pull on your balancer. Lots of lube on the crank end, bolt and washer.
I lack about 1/4 " for my bolt catch crank end with the washer. Never thought about a longer bolt, first 440 ive done. That should be worth a try! Thanks.
 
The best way I've found is to use a small block mopar balancer bolt. They are longer than the big block bolt. Unless the balancer is on most of the way, the big block bolt can screw the threads up (AMHIK).

An alternate way is to buy a bolt the same size, although longer, a couple washers and a nut and use that.

I strongly recommend you don't hammer it on. That's hard on the thrust bearing.
 
You can rent a balancer installer from your local rent all or parts store.
 
The best way I've found is to use a small block mopar balancer bolt. They are longer than the big block bolt. Unless the balancer is on most of the way, the big block bolt can screw the threads up (AMHIK).

An alternate way is to buy a bolt the same size, although longer, a couple washers and a nut and use that.

I strongly recommend you don't hammer it on. That's hard on the thrust bearing.
Thanks john, I was using the mallet to no succes and I was worried about damaging something. The longer bolt will be my option. Thanks again!
 
You can rent a balancer installer from your local rent all or parts store
Thanks john, I was using the mallet to no succes and I was worried about damaging something. The longer bolt will be my option. Thanks again!
That is hard on the crank threads and not recommended. Hammering on it can damage the thrust bearing.
 
Always check for burrs and nicks first on both your damper and crankshaft. Renting or buying an installer tool is the only way to go. I have had to too repair many mistakes brought to me in the pass. Damaged to crank bolts or crankshafts is not worth it. Apply high pressure grease when using.

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Always check for burrs and nicks first on both your damper and crankshaft. Renting or buying an installer tool is the only way to go. I have had to too repair many mistakes brought to me in the pass. Damaged to crank bolts or crankshafts is not worth it. Apply high pressure grease when using.

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Perfect. Those work very well. I always stocked one and sold dozens.
 
Gonna get something tomorow. Since Ive had these 2 300's, been buying tools to make life easier at my age! My sons glad to, he gets everything when im gone!
 
You can rent a balancer installer from your local rent all or parts store.
I tried that once and all they had was metric threaded. A bolt and nut with a couple washers with a touch of grease has done the same thing. Yea, it doesn't have the nice thrust bearing washer, but it works well. Hard to justify buying one more fairly expensive tool that I use every few years.

I'll have to tell you the Mac Tool dealer story sometime.
 
I just made my own tool, I was lucky my work had the hardware, I just needed to get the bearing.
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Alan
 
I tried that once and all they had was metric threaded. A bolt and nut with a couple washers with a touch of grease has done the same thing. Yea, it doesn't have the nice thrust bearing washer, but it works well. Hard to justify buying one more fairly expensive tool that I use every few years.

I'll have to tell you the Mac Tool dealer story sometime.
The 5 black adapters in the MAC set above are standard. The silver colored ones are metric. It sounds like you didn't get ahold of a good set. :poke:
 
auto zone has free rentals...well they charge you for the tool initially and refund it in full when you return it
 
On slightly different topic but same car, do I need to put silicone on either side of the valley pan intake gasket?
 
On slightly different topic but same car, do I need to put silicone on either side of the valley pan intake gasket?
Clean the intake and the cyl head surfaces thoroughly. the only silicone placement should be at the front and rear four corners where the valley pan meets the engine block and cyl heads.
 
Clean the intake and the cyl head surfaces thoroughly. the only silicone placement should be at the front and rear four corners where the valley pan meets the engine block and cyl heads.
Thats what I was needing to know. The instructions said around around the ports, old one didnt show any. I guess when the bolts are torqued the metal ridges press flat?
 
Thats what I was needing to know. The instructions said around around the ports, old one didnt show any. I guess when the bolts are torqued the metal ridges press flat?
With compression of the intake gasket you want the surface to have the ability to slide due to operating temperatures. The metal intake gaskets are a one use item. I have seen this done w/ poor results and problems later.
 
I have a quick question, is there an easy way to press balance back on? I tried a rubber mallet to tap it on. Only goes so far, I dont know if thats a good idea anyhow. I pulled back off, the fsm mentions a tool to press back on. I dont want to mess anything up doing it wrong. Any imput would be great.

View attachment 628470
First, make sure there are no burrs on ANYTHING. I run a file through the keyway and on the key itself. Fine crocus or emery cloth on the smooth surfaces. While doing that, I have the balancer (snout down) on an electric hot plate (on low) to help expand that hub out a bit. Then, while making sure the key is aligned with the keyway, and everything is properly lubed, I start tapping it on lightly. Usually, it will go right on to where you can start the bolt and run it home. If not on far enough for the stock BB bolt, I use a SB bolt and get the balancer on far enough to where the BB bolt will now work.
 
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