Hazard/Turn Signal Issues

[77newyorker440]

Good Evening Guys,
The car is back to having electrical issues. I parked it on the street today and had to leave it for a few minutes, so I left the hazards on. When I went to disengage them, the switch felt quite mushy, and the hazards turn off everywhere except the driverside front fender. Now, whenever the battery is connected, the turn signal, fender indicator, and the dash indicator for the driver side flash while the tail light does not. It is also no longer possible to turn on the flashers as the switch does not click into place, just moves about. The entire switch feels very loose. What is wrong, and how serious is the fix? I have a tilt/telescoping wheel. I can live without hazards, but I am unable to turn on the turn signals which just will not do.
Thanks,
77newyorker440

 

[77newyorker440]

Work-arounds not preferred but welcome, I was hoping to take the car up to Richmond next week if possible

 

[CBODY67]

Perhaps you might have a failed turn signal switch?

 

[77newyorker440]

That is what it looks like, but I am quite apprehensive going into that job, seems pretty serious

 

[1970FuryConv]

Work-arounds not preferred but welcome, I was hoping to take the car up to Richmond next week if possible

Hazard switch is broken. Is there a way to disconnect it from the wiring, so you can see how the lights perform without a shorted hazard switch?

 

[CBODY67]

As I seem to recall, the button on the hazard switch attached to a C-shaped piece of plastic which overrides the turn signal's contacts (or possibly adds to them, considering the separate flashers for the two systems?). If you can pull ot out to the un-engaged position, squarely, then it might put things back to normal?

Pulling the steering wheel is not as onerous as it might seem. Just need a lock plate compressor and steering wheel puller to do the deal. Might be able to get those things on loan from a local auto supply store? Past that, it's just a somewhat simple process to disconnect the wiring harness near the base of the steering column, attach a wire to its end, then pull the harness out from the top . . . reverse to reinstall. Getting the main connector to turn sideways to be removed and then similar to reinstall, using the "pull wire", it all works reasonably well. Check the FSM before doing any of this so you might know what you're looking at when you see it, for good measure.

Once the lock plate is compressed a bit, it will reveal a small round-wire clip in the recess in the shaft, which keeps the lock plate in place. Use an awl or small flat-blade screwdriver to dig it out, carefully. IF it might fly off, just get a normal paper clip and bend and snip it to fit. Been there, done that on my '70 Monaco Brougham. The clip is the same as on the GM Saginaw columns, but I suspect that FEW if any GM dealers now stock something like that, but it might be in the HELP Rack items at the auto supply or via Dorman products.

Be advised that there is also a "master spline" (wide) at the "high noon" position of the steering column shaft (when the front wheels are in the "straight ahead" position), which mates with a similar item on the steering wheel's splines. Align those when you get ready to put the steering wheel back on. Might check for the torque value of the "nut on the steering wheel", too.

Next thing is to find a quality turn signal switch for your car.

From my experiences,
CBODY67

 

[1970FuryConv]

Thanks, Willis
Then I'm understanding the formal turn signal switch assembly still looks like this fuselage unit. No way to disconnect hazard.

 

[CBODY67]

I believe the earlier switches had the separate contacts, but perhaps that changed somewhere. Or they were consolidated into a different configuration? Sorry for any mis-understandings I might have.

CBODY67

 

[77newyorker440]

Any info on were to get a good switch? The rockauto ones didn't look to great

 

[1970FuryConv]

Any info on were to get a good switch? The rockauto ones didn't look to great

I'd search eBay for a good switch or post a want ad on FCBO!
You could also look under the parts car forum and PM the person with the Formal car.
Formals are not my specialty, but since c-bodies were going out of production, I bet 74-78 steering columns and turn signal switches were the same.

 

[War Wagon2]

Tilt columns changed in '76 away from the black pad/rim blow wheel to the colour keyed inlay wheel with the padded horn pad , most listings show the same switch. Not sure what your problem is with the rock auto stuff .....as I stated in my other post to you I just installed a new switch in my Gran Fury ....works just fine! Here we are in 2022 with 45 year old cars be happy parts can still be found!

 

[Boydsdodge]

Just grab the Rockauto, the restoration shops will send same switch if it isn't an old stock part. I just went through this with a clients Cuda, we wanted the original style with brass wheel. He ordered three different ones, all came like the Rockauto. I am surprised that Rock has one for a tilt C-body. Clean your copper horn ring before you put wheel back on. some cleaning vinegar works well.

 

[77newyorker440]

Tilt columns changed in '76 away from the black pad/rim blow wheel to the colour keyed inlay wheel with the padded horn pad , most listings show the same switch. Not sure what your problem is with the rock auto stuff .....as I stated in my other post to you I just installed a new switch in my Gran Fury ....works just fine! Here we are in 2022 with 45 year old cars be happy parts can still be found!

I am a big rockauto fan, I just wanted to confirm cause it is pretty hard to get to if I install it and it is faulty, plus this is my first time doing this switch

 

[CBODY67]

If you are concerned about "faulty", two things. One is that they should have some sort of warranty return/replacement policy/procedures in place. Two is that you can remove the turn signal stalk, then unplug the lower connector for the switch, install the new switch, use the stalk to move the basic turn signal moving items in the switch, test the hazard flashers, too. If all works well, then unplug the new switch and commence removing the old switch and such.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[77newyorker440]

Okay just to confirm, does a 77 NYB have cornering lights? I thought all New Yorkers have them but it seems to be a real point of contention. I also confirmed that this Mopar PN is correct in the book but it appears to be superceded a few times

 

[CBODY67]

Okay just to confirm, does a 77 NYB have cornering lights? I thought all New Yorkers have them but it seems to be a real point of contention. I also confirmed that this Mopar PN is correct in the book but it appears to be superceded a few times

Check wwww.hamtramck-historical.com "Library" to get to a Dealer Order Guide for '77 New Yorkers. That should answer your question as to "standard" or "optional" on your model.


As to cornering lights needing or having a different turn signal switch. I kind of went through some similar situations when I needed my first turn signal switch for my '70 DH43N (due to Rim Blow steering wheel horn issues). The parts book seemed a bit vague. During that time, Chrysler Mopar was branching out into the aftermarket parts area (as ACDelco and Motorcraft were/had been doing), so I found one of their "auto supply" books that had turn signal switches in it. That book showed my Monaco with cornering lights switch also fit a '76 or so Cordoba (which did not offer cornering lights). I guess we guessed correctly (at the dealership) as the new switch fit correctly and the cornering lights still worked. Check the wiring schematic for your car to see what feeds the cornering light circuit, then proceed from there.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[77newyorker440]

Thank you guys! Fixed the problem by pushing the switch fully out from inside the column!