Headlights are out, tail lights OK

[Scoopy G]

Here's a bit of a long story.

Two weeks ago, I drove the 67 Newport Custom to a car show over in Lakeland, about 50 miles away. People were driving like idiots as usual, so I flicked on my headlights and put on the hi-beams so they could see me coming. I got to Lakeland and parked the car, and evidently forgot to turn off the headlights. When I left, I got to the car and the headlights weren't on. The car started right up, and off I went. Then, I noticed the headlight switch was on, so I turned it off and drove home.

A couple of days later, I realized that the headlights weren't working. The taillights and the dash lights were working just fine, but no headlights. I traced the power from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch, and found that yes, the headlight switch was indeed supplying power to the foot switch. Still no headlights. I cut the wires going into the dimmer switch to isolate the wires from the switch and the plug connector. Again, I found that the headlight switch was indeed sending 12V via the green wire to the foot switch. BUT, when I would use the green wire to energize either the red or black footswitch wires (hi or low beams), the power disappeared. This led to the conclusion that the internal circuit breaker as tripping for some reason.

NEXT, I applied direct battery power to the black and red wires respectively, and both the hi and low beams came on in turn, just fine...no smoke, no fire. SO, somehow, the headlight switch just does not like working the headlights anymore, since I left the brights on for a couple of hours in Lakeland.

Rather than pull the headlight switch again, and have it re-built again, here's how I solved the problem: I ran 12V from the battery to a new toggle switch under the dash. The switch sends 12V to the footswitch, instead of the headlight switch sending 12V to the footswitch. Now, I hit the headlight switch and the taillights and dash lights come on, and I hit the new toggle switch and the headlights come on, still controlled by the foot switch. No smoke, no fire, no problem.

I'll be interested to hear what I've done wrong.

 

[413]

Bad dimmer switch on the floor.

 

[Scoopy G]

Thanks 413, but no. I transplanted the known good dimmer switch from my 65 NYer, into the Newport with the same result. And, (read back through my post), with the power coming from the battery directly and not through the headlight switch, the footswitch in the 67 Newport still works just fine.

 

[Big_John]

At first blush, it sounded like the dimmer (floor) switch, but I think you've shown that isn't the problem.

The only suggestions I would have (and I'm NOT saying you're doing something wrong) is to make sure your under dash switch is rated for the draw of the headlights. Some aftermarket switches you buy at the local parts store aren't rated very high. Look for 20 amp rating at minimum. Another thought is to add a relay and have the switch control the relay. Using the relay could let you go back to the original switch too because the draw will be much lower.

Don't forget to put a circuit breaker in that power wire from the battery. I'd be wrong by not mentioning that. Electrical fires are no fun.

Still, I can't help but wonder if there's an excessive draw causing this though. I assume you don't have any crazy aftermarket lights, so it might be worth double checking headlight wiring to be on the safe side.

 

[Scoopy G]

Thanks Big John.

I had the dash switch rebuilt by Devin Duke 5 years ago when I bought the car. The headlights didn't work then, and somebody here on this forum recommended Devin to rebuild the factory switch. That rebuilt switch has worked just great until I left the lights on.

At that time, 5 years ago, Devin recommended I get a relay kit for the car, and I did exactly that. I installed the relay kit 5 years ago and it has worked fine and continues to work fine. As I was troubleshooting this issue, I disconnected the relay kit out of the equation in case maybe the relay kit had gone kaput. But no, the relay kit was not the problem, so it is back in the circuit and working well with my new setup.

I did think about an inline fuse from the battery to the footswitch, so thanks John for that suggestion, I'm going to do that. Would a fusible link wire work? I have some of that wire laying around.

 

[Scoopy G]

Oh yes John, as I re-read your post (I appreciate the input), yes, the new under-dash toggle is indeed rated at 20A.

 

[Big_John]

I did think about an inline fuse from the battery to the footswitch, so thanks John for that suggestion, I'm going to do that. Would a fusible link wire work? I have some of that wire laying around.

I'd recommend using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. They are self resetting and what the factory used. Hard to beat.

I've never thought about using fusible wire.... I think I'll stick with the circuit breaker recommendation though.

 

[Scoopy G]

I'd recommend using a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. They are self resetting and what the factory used. Hard to beat.

I've never thought about using fusible wire.... I think I'll stick with the circuit breaker recommendation though.

Thanks John. Can you provide a link to a circuit breaker that would work? I appreciate the help. Rich

 

[Big_John]

Here's a couple. These are usually available at your local parts store too.

I kinda like these because of the insulator. I've actually used the 30 amp versions.

https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-DC-12...123&sprefix=20+amp+auto+c,aps,241&sr=8-3&th=1

This is a little plainer, better brand though and what you'll find at the parts store (probably cheaper there) This is very similar to what Chrysler used.


https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CBC...0338123&sprefix=20+amp+auto+c,aps,241&sr=8-14

 

[Scoopy G]

Thanks again John, you've been very helpful.