Hello from germany / 440 New Yorker

After runnig god to ok yesterday, a carb question. Kind of urgent ;).

I have never had a car with carb befor...but it seems to me, that looking at my Carter stock carb the left, smal "silver" area is the "first stage" and the gold, right area are the "secondaries" on this 4bbl?
The car will start. But runs very rough and you have to keep it on gas for a time with your foot. I took out the carburettor cover and it seems to me like there is NO gas floating througt the "silver" area, which is connected to the autom. choke.

Can anyone get me a hint whats up here? I didn't touched the carb yet.

There is a noise like the carb ist "pulling" air through the low speed circuit. is it possible, that the float chamber has emptied? It looses some gas on the side of the carb...
IMG_20240311_104323164.jpg


IMG-20240311-WA0042.jpeg
 
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On the Carter ThermoQuad 4bbl, the smooth flap on top is the choke valve, the "bent metal" flap in cad plating coating is the secondary side of things.

The round tube in the middle goes directly into the float bowl, as mentioned.

First thing I would do is to trace each of the tubes/hoses from the carburetor to where they go. Looking for cracks or breaks in them, which can cause a vacuum leak. Sometimes, the rubber deteriorates and a very minute crack can become larger suddenly.

To determine if the float bowl has fuel in it, you can actuate the throttle lever ro get an accelerator pump "shot" into the primary throttle bores. The nozzle it comes out of is between the two primary venturis. Easy to see. The accelerator pump fills from the bottom of the float bowl, so if there is any fuel in there, it will be evident. If there is enough for three or so pump shots, that's enough for the engine to run, usually.

If you add fuel to the float bowl through the bowl vent tube, do NOT fill it to the top of the vent tube, for obvious reasons. Too much can send fuel into the carbon canister system, which attaches to the top of the float bowl with a rubber hose. You might use a thinner-shaft screwdriver as a dipstick of sorts to gauge the fuel level in the float bowl vs the top of the vent tube.

If you know how a fuel injection system works, a carburetor works on the same principles, just not quite as precise as a timed, electronic fuel injection system is. Same functional areas: cold start (the choke valve, choke pull-off, fast idle speed screw, and thermostat located on the intake manifold), hot idle (idle speed and mixture screws), acceleration and power misture (power valve), and WOT (secondaries). Throttle body EFI is more like a carburetor with electronic metering items in it.

Also make sure the ignition timing is where it needs to be (according to the factory service manual or the underhood emissions settings decal.

What is the engine not doing?

Take care,
CBODY67
 
Thanks. I will make the accelerator pump test. It runs rough. Wenn you hit the pedal its unwilling to accelerate fast. If you drive slowly and touching the pedal carefully it accelerates slowly. No matter which speed.
Later I will check some sparks how they look.

Also the power steering fails after I rebuilt the pump. Now iam looking to exchange the federal pump with a new one, but don't know which pulley I should order cause it seems like I ruined the original one.

I will also test the ignition point later this week, even if I didn't touched the ignition system.
 
Ignition is full electronic. No contact points as in the past.

Power steering pumps are all "reman" now, no new ones that I know of. Look for quality brands other than "Cardone".

Match the pump pulley diameter. Might be a 7-digit part number stamped into the old one?

CBODY67
 
I made the test. It sprays perfectly.
But...i follow your tip and checked all hoes.
Found this...



seems like it runs smoothly again. Very interesting how though this old engines are built! It stil drove okaaaaay with this!!

now iam looking for an power steering pump. Pulley seems to be an 7" 2951128
 
Lycidias said:
I made the test. It sprays perfectly.
But...i follow your tip and checked all hoes.
Found this...



seems like it runs smoothly again. Very interesting how though this old engines are built! It stil drove okaaaaay with this!!

now iam looking for an power steering pump. Pulley seems to be an 7" 2951128
Click to expand...

That would definitely cause an issue! I love simple fixes.
 
CBODY67 said:
Ignition is full electronic. No contact points as in the past.

Power steering pumps are all "reman" now, no new ones that I know of. Look for quality brands other than "Cardone".

Match the pump pulley diameter. Might be a 7-digit part number stamped into the old one?

CBODY67
Click to expand...
I will order this one. But I give it a last try tomorrow.

Screenshot_20240311-192404.png
 
bE SURE to NOT put automatic transmission fluid in the system. Use only genuine power steering fluid, as Chrysler spec'd.

CBODY67
 
Okay. New pump is in there. I can't test it until tomorrow... Shipping from the USA, the invoice says Made in Mexico, the package says Made in China :cheers: ...we'll see...

IMG_20240319_192922659.jpg
 
Yes!!! Back on the road again! Driving good, firing up good. Power steering super super smooth. Good investment!

New TTi exhaust, lot of small stuff done, all liquids changed.
No it wants me to drive it around :)

Thanks for yous help so far guys!!!

IMG-20240320-WA0014.jpeg
 
Checked the Trans fluid, added a little. Ok.
Tried to adjust the idle speed... didn't worked.
I turned this screw a half turn left, an a half turn right from it's actual position...no reaction.

This is way to fast idle for an 440!


IMG_20240321_102009942.jpg


Let's see... first test with brake cleaner over the next few days to see if it gets wrong air somewhere.
 
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Maybe...that's the problem. I think I got an wrong picture from the curb idle screw. I would say it's the lower screw in my picture??

17111155414386842126758614357246.jpg
 
Not sure. All I can say is if you turn the screw while car is idling, you should get a change in engine RPM up or down depending on which way you turn the screw. That's one way to tell.
 
Like you see there is a huge space between the screw and the metal...I don't see a way that the idle screw affects the idle in reality...
 
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