Lycidias
Member
Did my best to fix it by myself without painting it new!
Hello from germany / 440 New Yorker
- Thread starter Lycidias
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Looks good, with some PDR tools and skills you can get the rest worked out over time.
Lycidias
Member
Time. Time is the problem ;) Children, work, driving around,....hard to get spare time for this work.
Lycidias
Member
1. US car Meeting in Ransbach-Baumbach, RLP, Germany. Bad weather, just a few old cars. Most of them Mustangs. Nearly 0 Mopars.
But I fall in love with this black "beast". 6,4 (390?) Hemi 2500 RAM HD Power Wagon
But I fall in love with this black "beast". 6,4 (390?) Hemi 2500 RAM HD Power Wagon
Lycidias
Member
The "Yank Tank", "Battleship", "blue whale"...passed yesterday the german car inspection (TUEV, every two years required by law) without issues. Enginge runs PERFECT. 710 RPM hot idle, 0,55 CO left and 0,6 CO right cylinder bank. The examiners loved the "Tank", it's so long, it nearly dosen't fit onto the lifting platform. We had to do the light test with two people, because the car is too long for the normal test system. 
Lycidias
Member
Today I sinned against the Chrysler ;). Just before the boats by the river mopar meeting in Erden, Germany.
Lycidias
Member
So it was time for a new starter... urgently time. Very urgent. 20% of the flanks have already been eaten away! It was still running perfectly, mind you...
And what you DON'T want to see... :hypno:
And what you DON'T want to see... :hypno:
Lycidias
Member
Stood up this morning and thought about following some advices from this great community...and it was worth it!!! I found the second COMPLETE broadcastsheet!!! I'am very happy about this
Lycidias
Member
Not much happening here. The battleship runs without issues at a reasonable gas milage.
Just bought this one to have a spare part when i need it (Mopar NOS 1977-78 B-C Body 400-440 cu in 4 Barrel Auto TQ Choke Assembly 4027793 | eBay).
November there will start futher projects (e.g. valley pan, oil pressure, oil temp, front suspension, enginge mounts...).
Just bought this one to have a spare part when i need it (Mopar NOS 1977-78 B-C Body 400-440 cu in 4 Barrel Auto TQ Choke Assembly 4027793 | eBay).
November there will start futher projects (e.g. valley pan, oil pressure, oil temp, front suspension, enginge mounts...).
Lycidias
Member
Still not much happening. The last US service of the New Yorker. 9/ 2015 in Osburn Idaho.
Wrong oil I say (10w30). Not it has 20W50.
Wrong oil I say (10w30). Not it has 20W50.
Not so much the oil weight, but the zinc content. So I'd say get some good classic car oil in there. Castrol has classic engine oil. I think Castrol is easier to get in Europe.
Lycidias
Member
After getting a little bit into this oil think i recognised, that the German 20W50 classis oil i use is made for European cars for which the content of 800ppm zddp is enough. @ayilar convinced me in going much higher. So further I will use MOTUL CLASSIC OIL 20W-50 with about 1460ppm. Thanks for your advice!
As discussed, zinc is important but so is viscosity. I’ll let experts like @CBODY67 @saforwardlook and @david hill chime in.
Back when VW was having cam lobe failure issues with its engines, the ones which run a high-pressure fuel pump off of a cam lobe, seems like the API SL rated oil was the newest standard they approved of, which is 1000ppm zddp in a synthetic motor oil. Castrol makes such a 5W-30 motor oil (black bottle) that is not "Dexos Approved" (which is now closer to 900ppm zddp).
The Amsoil syn Z-Rod oil is approx 1400ppm zddp, as Valvoline VR-1 syn or dino, hits that same area, too.
In the USA, whenever you get of of the usual viscosities of OEM spec oils, then higher zddp levels can result. But this can be variable. Especially since there are many "supercar" engines which use an oil heavier than 5W-30 these days.
The OTHER area where wear is decreased with a 1400ppm zddp oil is bearing wear! Lake Speed, Jr. has a video where he compared the normal, current Castrol GTX 20W-50 to the Castrol GTX Classic 20W-50 and bearing wear decreased by a good bit. I have never seen any of the "Classic" oil on the shelf, so it might be an oil to order. You can check his videos on YouTube. His latest gig is with Total Seal Piston Rings and his YT channel is "The Motor Oil Geek". Some videos on the Porsche Club Website, too.
For some reason, he recommends NOT to add a zddp additive to any motor oil, as it allegedly will not "mix" with the original oil. Plus as calcium levels are decreased, the zddp effectiveness can increase. Lots of little interactions that are involved! So finding an oil with the higher zddp levels "from the factory" as always best.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
The Amsoil syn Z-Rod oil is approx 1400ppm zddp, as Valvoline VR-1 syn or dino, hits that same area, too.
In the USA, whenever you get of of the usual viscosities of OEM spec oils, then higher zddp levels can result. But this can be variable. Especially since there are many "supercar" engines which use an oil heavier than 5W-30 these days.
The OTHER area where wear is decreased with a 1400ppm zddp oil is bearing wear! Lake Speed, Jr. has a video where he compared the normal, current Castrol GTX 20W-50 to the Castrol GTX Classic 20W-50 and bearing wear decreased by a good bit. I have never seen any of the "Classic" oil on the shelf, so it might be an oil to order. You can check his videos on YouTube. His latest gig is with Total Seal Piston Rings and his YT channel is "The Motor Oil Geek". Some videos on the Porsche Club Website, too.
For some reason, he recommends NOT to add a zddp additive to any motor oil, as it allegedly will not "mix" with the original oil. Plus as calcium levels are decreased, the zddp effectiveness can increase. Lots of little interactions that are involved! So finding an oil with the higher zddp levels "from the factory" as always best.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
I have found the most reliable information on the use of various oil viscosities comes from the vehicle owners manuals, and here is one example from a 1972 Polara/Monaco owners manual that is placed in the glove boxes at the factory:
Since I reside in Southern California I usually use the 20W50 oils year round since it is very rare/almost never for temperatures go below freezing, I use the 20W-50 grade of oils in my older cars. I also believe it is important to use an oil that has anti deposit/wear additives. For example, if I use the Valvoline VR1 racing oils, they are low on anti deposit additives so if I use that brand I do make sure I get the engine up to normal temperatures fully and drive relatively long distances when I take my cars out but I also change it more frequently. The 50W when the engine is warmed up helps minimize engine wear when the cars are driven hard at/near full throttle.
Since I reside in Southern California I usually use the 20W50 oils year round since it is very rare/almost never for temperatures go below freezing, I use the 20W-50 grade of oils in my older cars. I also believe it is important to use an oil that has anti deposit/wear additives. For example, if I use the Valvoline VR1 racing oils, they are low on anti deposit additives so if I use that brand I do make sure I get the engine up to normal temperatures fully and drive relatively long distances when I take my cars out but I also change it more frequently. The 50W when the engine is warmed up helps minimize engine wear when the cars are driven hard at/near full throttle.
Lycidias
Member
Thannk you @saforwardlook ! I read this in my manual to and because I only drive in summer I choose the 20w50.
The biggest Mopar (only?) commercial seller in Germany sells the above mentioned Motul oil. So I think this will be the right choice over here.
The biggest Mopar (only?) commercial seller in Germany sells the above mentioned Motul oil. So I think this will be the right choice over here.
Lycidias
Member
Another question: I have to get my carb resealed, because it leaks gas on the right side(seen from standing before the car looking onto the carb). I've bought this set and now i'am confused because several gaskets are included multiple times.
How do I know which one to use? Set is Hygrade 657C. I've never worked on carbs before.
How do I know which one to use? Set is Hygrade 657C. I've never worked on carbs before.
Match the gasket to the old gasket. The 440 will have the larger primary holes in gasket.
I lube my gaskets before assembly, keeps the gaskets from tearing if I need to open again.
If you take your primary squirted off be careful not to loose the small needle under it. When taking carb apart there are two screws under the choke flap.
I am rebuilding a thermoquad or three every season for owners. Great carb once set up correct.
I have been noticing a problem with the accelerator pump rubber getting hung up on the walls of the pump chamber, take some very fine emery cloth and smooth out the bore in the direction of travel. The leather accelerator pumps don't have an issue other than very hard to get and very costly now that the manufacturer has stopped selling to public.
I lube my gaskets before assembly, keeps the gaskets from tearing if I need to open again.
If you take your primary squirted off be careful not to loose the small needle under it. When taking carb apart there are two screws under the choke flap.
I am rebuilding a thermoquad or three every season for owners. Great carb once set up correct.
I have been noticing a problem with the accelerator pump rubber getting hung up on the walls of the pump chamber, take some very fine emery cloth and smooth out the bore in the direction of travel. The leather accelerator pumps don't have an issue other than very hard to get and very costly now that the manufacturer has stopped selling to public.
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Lycidias
Member
The carb runs quite well. But it loses gas, so I have get after this. I only want to exchange the gaskets not to play with any adjustments...I hope this will work.
Thank you so far!!
Thank you so far!!
You should check your float level and the small bowls glued to bottom of the float bowl while it's open.
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