Looks great Randy. The exhaust tone should be more to your liking. Are you planning to attended Tim's 8th Annual C Body Show in June. As for details on it still nothing official. Hope to have the Hurst 300 ready.
Hello from the Dark Side (DRK SD 73)
- Thread starter 73 New Yorker
- Start date
Thank you David. I did notice a difference in the tone and it is an improvement. I am definitely attending Tim’s C Body Show in June and looking forward to seeing the HURST in person.
Just in time for summer. DRK SD 73 has an all new AC system that blows a cool 44 degrees.
And since I am retiring May 24th my new part time job will be going to car shows this summer.
And since I am retiring May 24th my new part time job will be going to car shows this summer.
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Some recent improvements to DRK SD 73. The car spent a little time at @71Polara383’s garage.
He installed Mity Mount motor mounts, a transmission mount and a torque strap. All of which combined to completely eliminate engine vibration at idle and during acceleration from a complete stop.
He solved the driver’s side window problem that had broken the motor gear repeatedly (4 times) over the past two years. Causes included the screw and washer that were protruding into the roller track and a broken regulator rivet that had been replaced with a nut and bolt. Luckily he had a good replacement regulator in his spare parts inventory.
Lastly he replaced the valve cover gaskets with silicone gaskets from Real Gaskets and the original valve covers were painted and reinstalled. Coupled with a new air cleaner from Mancini Racing to give the engine bay a slightly more stock appearance.
Thanks again to @71Polara383 for all the problem solving and hard work!
He installed Mity Mount motor mounts, a transmission mount and a torque strap. All of which combined to completely eliminate engine vibration at idle and during acceleration from a complete stop.
He solved the driver’s side window problem that had broken the motor gear repeatedly (4 times) over the past two years. Causes included the screw and washer that were protruding into the roller track and a broken regulator rivet that had been replaced with a nut and bolt. Luckily he had a good replacement regulator in his spare parts inventory.
Lastly he replaced the valve cover gaskets with silicone gaskets from Real Gaskets and the original valve covers were painted and reinstalled. Coupled with a new air cleaner from Mancini Racing to give the engine bay a slightly more stock appearance.
Thanks again to @71Polara383 for all the problem solving and hard work!
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
It was my pleasure to resolve that issue for you. After hearing the issue had happened numerous times after being repaired - I knew everyone that had been in the door missed SOMETHING while repairing the window motor. Having been inside several fuselage C doors, I noticed that screw with a washer behind it in the window track, and the repaired regulator. Everything else looked okay.
I do believe i could have left the repaired regulator in, however I was this cars last stop for window repair - and I had the regulator on hand. It made sense to replace it. Remove the washer and put it all back together.
The rest were routine repairs and straight forward.
Thanks again for the opportunity to actually repair your car @73 New Yorker
I do believe i could have left the repaired regulator in, however I was this cars last stop for window repair - and I had the regulator on hand. It made sense to replace it. Remove the washer and put it all back together.
The rest were routine repairs and straight forward.
Thanks again for the opportunity to actually repair your car @73 New Yorker
Over the last two years I had my entire heating & A/C systems replaced. The heat works great, the A/C doesn’t work well at all. It worked decent for the first few weeks after having it installed last year. There was a problem with a crimp on one of the fittings. I had it replaced and it wasn’t much better. I had some health issues late fall and early spring and it became less of a priority.
Two days ago, I took the car back to the mechanic that installed the AC.
He ran a dye test on the system, replaced an O-ring on the dryer, tightened the belts and recharged the system. It’s only blowing slightly cool air at best.
When I researched the problem, frosting of the lines represents a leak/problem with the system. The mechanic told me he thought part of the problem was that the two belts that run through the compressor are not cut from the same lot and are not effectively turning the compressor.
I bought the A/C unit in 2023 and it wasn’t installed until 2024. It’s sat on a shelf in my house for over a year. Would it be possible that in someway this damaged any of the components?
I am providing pictures of the frost on the fittings. If anybody’s willing to give advice, I would appreciate it. I have a lot of money invested and basically no return on my investment.
Two days ago, I took the car back to the mechanic that installed the AC.
He ran a dye test on the system, replaced an O-ring on the dryer, tightened the belts and recharged the system. It’s only blowing slightly cool air at best.
When I researched the problem, frosting of the lines represents a leak/problem with the system. The mechanic told me he thought part of the problem was that the two belts that run through the compressor are not cut from the same lot and are not effectively turning the compressor.
I bought the A/C unit in 2023 and it wasn’t installed until 2024. It’s sat on a shelf in my house for over a year. Would it be possible that in someway this damaged any of the components?
I am providing pictures of the frost on the fittings. If anybody’s willing to give advice, I would appreciate it. I have a lot of money invested and basically no return on my investment.
73Coupe
Senior Member
It looks like the control valve is allowing too much flow into the evaporator, causing the refrigerant in the line to evaporate before it reaches the evaporator, thus resulting in less cooling to the cabin. The refrigerant's change of state from liquid to gas (evaporation) is what provides the cooling effect.
The control valve may be receiving an incorrect signal - capillary tube not in right place, or broken. Also, is the control valve the correct one for using with the aftermarket compressor? And of course this all depends on type of refrigerant. The original system with the RV2 compressor used a valve at the back of the compressor as well. Does your compressor cycle on and off?
The control valve may be receiving an incorrect signal - capillary tube not in right place, or broken. Also, is the control valve the correct one for using with the aftermarket compressor? And of course this all depends on type of refrigerant. The original system with the RV2 compressor used a valve at the back of the compressor as well. Does your compressor cycle on and off?
The control valve - all parts that were installed are what came with the kit. Unfortunately I’m not knowledgeable enough about A/C to know if it’s the right one.
Compressor cycling - I can still feel slightly cool air coming through the vent after I push the off switch.
I think the air continues to be slightly cool until I move the lever more than halfway to the hot side of the temperature display. Because the system works so poorly it’s hard to tell if it’s cycling at all.
I’ve tried to research how the Sanden compressor works in these older cars but I haven’t had a lot of luck. Thank you for responding.
Compressor cycling - I can still feel slightly cool air coming through the vent after I push the off switch.
I think the air continues to be slightly cool until I move the lever more than halfway to the hot side of the temperature display. Because the system works so poorly it’s hard to tell if it’s cycling at all.
I’ve tried to research how the Sanden compressor works in these older cars but I haven’t had a lot of luck. Thank you for responding.
If I wanted to disable the A/C unit, since it’s not working correctly anyway, wouldn’t removing a fuse be the easiest way to accomplish that?
73Coupe
Senior Member
If your Sanden compressor is powered from the same source that the RV2 was, that wire is "hot" all the time since in 73 that's how it was designed (at least with non ATC II systems).
You can hack the power supply though by moving the temp control lever slightly to the right, until you hear a click behind the control unit. About 1/2" if I recall correctly....that's the temp cutoff switch.
If you have switched to R134A then your compressor should be a cycling on-off where the power is regulated by a temp sensor on the lines going into the firewall.
You can hack the power supply though by moving the temp control lever slightly to the right, until you hear a click behind the control unit. About 1/2" if I recall correctly....that's the temp cutoff switch.
If you have switched to R134A then your compressor should be a cycling on-off where the power is regulated by a temp sensor on the lines going into the firewall.
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