HELP Need Opinions on my Fury Build

Turboomni said:
For the car's sake I would suggst if you build the engine with the setup you already are committed too run it without a hood. Then when you hate it you will still have a nice hood when you take all that stuff off.
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I hear you on that for sure, not cutting her up til I'm somewhat happy with what I got. However worse case I guess I could always bolt a scoop on, but I don't really want to do that. Haha
 
bajajoaquin said:
I'm a bit confused. Are you looking for advice or validation? If you already bought the combo, then there's not much to be gained by asking for opinions. Put it together, get it in the car and drive it.

Other than the hole in the hood for a tunnel ram, the big issue I see is with the cam. That much duration is going to give away a lot of torque on the bottom end.

I also believe you'll be unhappy with the combination in the long run, but it will probably be pretty fun to have it rumble and make noise on the street. There's nothing wrong with a little posing every now and then.

You might consider some limited changes with an eye toward the next version. A single four barrel and intake combo won't give up anything in the real world for you and would keep you from having to repair a hole in the hood later. 3.55 gears might be a compromise choice as well. Once you have driven it for a while you can revisit the cam. If you want hot street with the rest of the package you can look into something like 225 degrees of duration. That would give more balance but still have the attitude you're looking for.
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All advice is welcome Baja and thanks for your reply! Some of what I was asking for is some suggestions on what isn't allowing that set up to work properly, and what I could potentially get to make it work with this radical dueled set up (something with in reason to save up for a little down the road) like a different head that will help with compression and flow, different Pistons for compression, different cam set up, etc. aside from just scraping the whole idea. In my inexperience I don't know what to expect from this combo I have, so any guesses on what to expect would be helpful. The things I changed based on community influence is going from two 450 cfm mechanical secondary Holley's to two 600 cfm Vacuum Sec. ones, going from 2800 stall to 3500, changing out the rear from 2.76 to 4.10, and was Hoping for the next step so to speak to making this set up workish enough to be a fun putter til that next big part. As of now all be been driving is a dying Slant 6 in a 69' Dart 4dr Sedan so I don't think it'll take too much to give me that, in comparison, massively different seat of the pants feel haha. Thanks again to everyone who has been throwing in their Two bits!
 
commando1 said:
No. We definitely do not want to do that.
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Only reason I say that is because of this one I saw a while ago haha, and The Blue one is one of my inspirations for this build.

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Slantsix said:
If u want 3.90 or 4.10 gear, swap 727 to 518. Or other OD transmission.
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Down the road I want to swap a 4 speed into her with secret 5th as an overdrive in it, always loved the idea of a stick right over the bench like the 68' Road Runners. So I hear ya on that, with gears like that it's a must. Until then I'm stuck with this 3 speed detonator...
 
My first Mopar was a '68 Dart GT. Loved that car. If it had been a manual transmission, I might still own it today, but that's a different story.

I bought it from a guy who had built the engine. 318, 0.030 over, solid lifters, Street Dominator intake, dual exhaust. Ran freaking awesome. No bottom end, but it rumbled and sounded cool as F----. One day, it started clattering and wouldn't run right. I didn't know what was wrong, so I decided to rebuild the engine. I figured I'd find and fix whatever was wrong.

I did, kinda.

It wiped a cam lobe. It had an Erson High-Flow 2 cam with 246 degrees of duration at 0.050. Stock heads, adjustable valvetrain, but not really up to the lift. I just replaced the cam because I didn't know any better.

When I got it back together, it ran f-----g awesome again, sounded awesome etc. Still no bottom end, but charged hard on top (before running out of steam because it was head-limited on top). At the time, I loved it. Now, I realize it would have been way faster if I'd had something like 225 degrees of duration with the rest of the setup (and an Eddy performer intake) rather than 246 degrees. Wouldn't have popped and spit and sounded so cool, but it would have been faster. I really wish I had just asked the guy on the phone at Erson for a recommendation based on my complete setup, but I just didn't know to do that.

Why am I telling you this? Because if you're new to all this, you're going down the same road I did, and you're going to build a car that sounds super cool but just plain old doesn't work as well as something that is either ratcheted back a ways, or dialed up to 11.

Want to get to the wild street car with 4x2 intake and ground-pounding muscle? Start with a well-built short block, reasonable cam, intake and overall combo. From there, you can add a cam, add some intake, add some head work. You probably won't be out any extra money, and in the short run, you'll have a faster, nicer-driving car, and in the long run, you'll understand how to build a faster, nicer-driving car.
 
bajajoaquin said:
My first Mopar was a '68 Dart GT. Loved that car. If it had been a manual transmission, I might still own it today, but that's a different story.

I bought it from a guy who had built the engine. 318, 0.030 over, solid lifters, Street Dominator intake, dual exhaust. Ran freaking awesome. No bottom end, but it rumbled and sounded cool as F----. One day, it started clattering and wouldn't run right. I didn't know what was wrong, so I decided to rebuild the engine. I figured I'd find and fix whatever was wrong.

I did, kinda.

It wiped a cam lobe. It had an Erson High-Flow 2 cam with 246 degrees of duration at 0.050. Stock heads, adjustable valvetrain, but not really up to the lift. I just replaced the cam because I didn't know any better.

When I got it back together, it ran f-----g awesome again, sounded awesome etc. Still no bottom end, but charged hard on top (before running out of steam because it was head-limited on top). At the time, I loved it. Now, I realize it would have been way faster if I'd had something like 225 degrees of duration with the rest of the setup (and an Eddy performer intake) rather than 246 degrees. Wouldn't have popped and spit and sounded so cool, but it would have been faster. I really wish I had just asked the guy on the phone at Erson for a recommendation based on my complete setup, but I just didn't know to do that.

Why am I telling you this? Because if you're new to all this, you're going down the same road I did, and you're going to build a car that sounds super cool but just plain old doesn't work as well as something that is either ratcheted back a ways, or dialed up to 11.

Want to get to the wild street car with 4x2 intake and ground-pounding muscle? Start with a well-built short block, reasonable cam, intake and overall combo. From there, you can add a cam, add some intake, add some head work. You probably won't be out any extra money, and in the short run, you'll have a faster, nicer-driving car, and in the long run, you'll understand how to build a faster, nicer-driving car.
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Thanks for the advice Baja! I think on this build I'm gonna be going to 11 for sure, Especially since there's no feasible way to start from scratch at this point haha. I found out that my engine in a '69 Block 440 so as far as my dreadfully low compression concern from being a late block engine, thats a big step in the right direction. Hopefully that'll make this build have a little more low end pick up needed for a somewhat easier street ability.
 
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