Holy Rust!

saylor said:
no fear my friend ! for we have gone before you, and done the same.

somewhere in this forum is my post where I did the roof with truck bed liner and por15 patch and putty. I based my posts off of a previous work by another forum member, and they actually chose to cover their (good) roof with pookey and not vinyl.

but ya- sand it down, por patch and putty up everything, then coat it with bedliner, and drive the wheels off it.

try not to die -

- saylor
Click to expand...


So PorPatch works and holds up? Can you link me to pics?
 
If you want to Keep it forever as part of the Family then do it or have it done correctly with new metal, anything else is cutting Corners that you will regret in years to come.

Taking out the Windows, engine Overhaull and such already done is too much time, Money and Spirit invested already if I were in your place to Resort to such patch ups not even mentioning structural integrity of such a Swiss cheese roof.

Otherwise be prepared to start again in the near future.
 
Last edited:
so thats what i started with. id trade you.

i sanded all the rust out that i could get to without unriveting the metal pieces previously added.

used the por PUTTY to build my straight edges around the window channel, etc, and to fill void, etc.

used the por GOOP in the tube to fill after that, the seams, etc

then i taped off in vinyl roof pattern ,and bedlinered the whole thing
 
here is a different pic

sanded-roof1.jpg


sanded-roof1.jpg
 
Saylor you still need a new roof.:poke:
 
I think the "new roof" scenario is a bit much to keep this car on the road. At the same time I'm a fan of structural integrity. Let's assume the headliner is removed? Good, then remove the rest of the interior (carpet/seats at the least).

Find someone that knows how to weld, even if he/she (lol) is just agricultural grade (plows, etc.) Get some strips of heavy sheetmetal in strips just wide enough to make it between the headliner bows. Cut the metal strips long enough that fits between the left & right roof rails only when under a great deal of tension (somewhat like a headliner bow). Have your welder run a bead at each left/right rail, and in spots wherever it contacts the old sheetmetal panel.

If it's done correctly this would be stronger than what you had originally. The headliner and pad will cover up this butchery on the underside. Assuming you've done all you can to remove/convert/burn-at-stake any existing rust, give it all a coat of Rust-Bullet (or whatever in in fashion this year). Apply some kitty-hair fiberglass on the lumpy mess, then bondo. Get it reasonably smooth. Use a good quality paint and let it outgas for a while. Install your top.

You'd probably be in for $50 worth of metal and $150 for the welding labor. This is a heirloom, not a rare car where you'll ever be able to see a return on investment. This solution is ethical and only your hairdresser would know for sure assuming some level of skill by your welder and your ability to apply/sand bondo.
 
Not that I'm not going to have massive issues in my rear window channel but this thread is making me very thankful I found a two tone car as opposed to a vinyl car.

I personally wouldn't be able to resist replacing the skin. Not that it wouldn't be expensive and time consuming it's just that as an heirloom, I'd have an idea of how the person it is honoring would want to see it. In that way, money be damned.

I don't know, man. Good luck with whatever you wind up doing.
 
[QUOTE="GrandpasDream, this is tough without knowing how to weld is tougher![/QUOTE]



Well, you can hire it out. Save some money by preparing the car yourself, (remove interior parts and headliner).
OR........ Enroll in welding class at a local trade school. Learn something and fix your car at the same time.
 
Being somewhat structural you could go with 18 gauge which is harder to form into shapes but is easier to weld. Since the pieces are mostly flat it shouldn't be that hard. 22 gauge would be too thin for a roof, I personally would never use that gauge, and butt welding would be tough. You might find some 20 gauge on your car if you mic around different panels. Ford used 19 gauge throughout most of their cars in the 60s. I have a few flat patches on my Park Lane and I will use 18 gauge I have.
 
commando1 said:
That's a nifty lil thing. Looks like something I could leave at my bench for a fast tack. Does it realy work?
Click to expand...
Back when Ben Hur subscribed to "Hot Chariots" magazine, there was a ad for one of those on the back page.
 
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