Ters
New Member
Only one solution then..... Drive it like you stole it, keep speed above 80?! Lol!! Serious now, please do share when you find the source?
Ters.
Ters.
Horrible mind numbing vibration....
- Thread starter butchr66
- Start date
Meh we got the whole stoplight/stop sign thing going on here so cant stay over 80 much. You know I'll totally share what I find! Alot of newbies on here and afrikaners that never seen a real live car cept in pictures! Sorry, I'm the sort to bust your balls back, prick! heehee
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
My Suggestion is to get it on the highway and up to the speed where the vibration is worst.
Then disengage the clutch and see if the vibration goes away.
If it does go away, I would pull the driveshaft and borrow a 3 foot machinist straight edge and check it in multiple places for straightness. If no straightness issue, I'd have a shop rebalance it.
If it keeps vibrating at speed with the clutch disengaged, I'd rev the engine up and down at speed and see if the problem varies. If it does not, I'd consider getting all my wheels balanced. If it does, I'd look at the front of the engine. A common problem is a spun harmonic balancer. If the outer portion spins against the inner portion (rubber seal in between) you can have a lot of vibration.
Then disengage the clutch and see if the vibration goes away.
If it does go away, I would pull the driveshaft and borrow a 3 foot machinist straight edge and check it in multiple places for straightness. If no straightness issue, I'd have a shop rebalance it.
If it keeps vibrating at speed with the clutch disengaged, I'd rev the engine up and down at speed and see if the problem varies. If it does not, I'd consider getting all my wheels balanced. If it does, I'd look at the front of the engine. A common problem is a spun harmonic balancer. If the outer portion spins against the inner portion (rubber seal in between) you can have a lot of vibration.
Ters
New Member
:laughing4: No offence meant or taken!
Contrary to popular belief, we do not commute with oxen and cart in Africa anymore....and yes, we Afrikaners do envy the US and Canada for availability of different cars and ease of sourcing spares! Very large contingent of Mopar owners in South Africa, trying to keep the "legacy" alive, despite having to import most parts/upgrades needed.
Me joining this Forum was not only for drooling over your cars.....but to learn and assist in sometimes obvious issues over looked. :icon_winkle: Hope you get it sorted soon! (honestly!)
Ters.
Contrary to popular belief, we do not commute with oxen and cart in Africa anymore....and yes, we Afrikaners do envy the US and Canada for availability of different cars and ease of sourcing spares! Very large contingent of Mopar owners in South Africa, trying to keep the "legacy" alive, despite having to import most parts/upgrades needed.
Me joining this Forum was not only for drooling over your cars.....but to learn and assist in sometimes obvious issues over looked. :icon_winkle: Hope you get it sorted soon! (honestly!)
Ters.
Last edited:
Ters
New Member
Browse this Forum: http://www.africanmusclecars.com/forum/ ....see some of SA's finest.
Ters.
ps: Oh yes, I am administrator on that Forum.....:tiphat:
Did that, done that. I got levels with my job that measure flat in .0001 millimeter. Soon as I let off the verticle peddle on the right it goes away so I'm figuring driveshaft/U joints/ shaft balance but finding zero. Way strange
Twist in a driveshaft can be hard to see. The U-joints have to be in the same plane and eyeballing it won't tell you if they are or not. I've twisted shafts that look fine on the car, but take them off and lay them on the floor and you can see how the u-joints are not in alignment.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
To dove tail on what Big John said, since you have the manual 3 speed, which is a short transmission from front to back and since you may have a light duty rear to match the 6 cylinder, my guess is that you have a long driveshaft, even by C-body standards. So it might not take much to throw it out of balance and give bad harmonic vibrations. Since you've eliminated the u-joints and straightness, rebalancing the shaft may be the only way to end the shakes.
For me, that's much more likely the solution than clutch chatter that is high speed only, or very short, but well supported trans input and output shafts that somehow got bent. I think it's either a driveshaft balance issue, or a hidden straightness issue, like Big John said.
Best of luck. Ben
For me, that's much more likely the solution than clutch chatter that is high speed only, or very short, but well supported trans input and output shafts that somehow got bent. I think it's either a driveshaft balance issue, or a hidden straightness issue, like Big John said.
Best of luck. Ben
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
You will never hear the end of this.
I SAID IT IS THE EFN PRESSURE PLATE!!!
Why doesn't anybody hear me ?
JeezesHKiste, did anyone read the post?
45 to 80 - STOPS when he gets off the gas...
1. U-Joints. He says they are good.
2. Then you go to the pressure plate.
rexus31
Senior Member
I experienced this a while back.
Any recent backfires? My issue turned out to be a blown muffler from a bad backfire. Literally blown. Split at the seam the entire length. The car ran like crap with a ton a vibration at speed.
Any recent backfires? My issue turned out to be a blown muffler from a bad backfire. Literally blown. Split at the seam the entire length. The car ran like crap with a ton a vibration at speed.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I would go after the clutch, could be one of the dampening springs in the clutch plate in nuetral or off gas it is centering, on gas loading over and causing imbalance. That's my shot in the dark hope I hit something.
furyus 67
Senior Member
Driveshaft 180 off? I know it's a simple one but....
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
You need a two piece unless its twisted like Big John said, 180 degree twist that is a bad *** poly
furyus 67
Senior Member
That would be a bad *** poly! Not what I meant tho. Not sure if it holds true with these older mopars, but for my 99 Cherokee and my 03 Tahoe and several other rear wheel drive vehicles I've owned. What I've done is pulled the driveshaft out and in my hurry I've forgotten to mark the orientation with the rear yolk. I put it back an and it vibrates like a SOB above 50 or so. Pull it out turn it 180 degrees and problem solved. I don't know if that's the case here but as I said I've had that issue a couple times.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Shouldn't matter but I see what you mean and not a bad idea
twostick
Senior Member
Did it start this after the mount swap?
If so, check your driveline angles. Combine old maybe sagged springs with new maybe not accurate mounts (especially the trans mount) and it can run your pinion angle into the vibration zone.
Kevin
No it stated like last Sept about. I put the car in storage over the winter and just finally got her out the other day. I thought maybe the mounts were the problem because the driver's side mount was Swiss cheese. No change. Trying to remember if I had the shaft out at some point....I might have but don't remember for sure
Actually, I'm thinking along the same lines. Once in a while at crawling speed I can hear a sound like maybe a spring is touching the bellhousing
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
Yes,
I once drove my A12 Road Runner 250 miles to a show, every thing was fine. On the way home at highway speed it started vibrating like you described. It ended up to be a extremely worn slip yoke bushing in the trans tail housing, caused by the drive shaft being to short causing the slip yoke to not fully engage into the bushing. Ruined the yoke.
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