If the two upper control arm's eccentrics move the upper location points in together, equally, that is camber.
If the two upper control arm's eccentrics move the upper location points in equally, that is caster. Positive moves the upper ball joint to the rear, negative moves it to the front, zero is in the middle.
Adjust camber first, THEN head toward the caster adjustment.
With the tires sitting on a "tire plate", rotate the steering wheel to get a tire turning of about 20 degrees or so from forward, then turn the steering wheel an equal amount in the other direction. Noting the change of the level of the bubble level from positive to negative at the ends of that turning movement. The difference is caster.
Once camber is adjusted, the caster adjustments can be tweaked to get it close, if not exact, to the specs. A trial and error method.
IF there is no issue with steering self-centering with bias-ply tires, no issues with radial tires in that area.
To me, the reasons that people perceive they need a "high caster" front end is that the geometry of their front suspensions allows the outside wheel to lean with the car in a turn. Which means they need stiff sway bars to keep them flat.
On a Chrysler front end, the geometry lets the outside wheel go into negative camber so when the car might lean, the outer wheel remains perpendicular to the road surface. This is evident when you turn the wheels all the way one way and the outer wheel for the turn direction goes into visible negative camber as the inside wheel goes into positive camber.
Which is as Chrysler designed it, from the middle 1950s! The Chrysler MasterTech course on front suspensions and alignments explains this in word and graphics, quite well. www.mymopar.com to find it!
Enjoy!
CBODY67