How to clean a gas tank

[spstan]

Watching Simon Fordman working on a Torino on You Tube. The guy is brilliant (no words spoken, no emotional outbursts when things go wrong; just a steady, methodical step by step process). So he takes the gas tank out and puts nuts and bolts and chains in the tank. Then he welds a bar to the back wheel and straps the gas tank to the bar. Then he starts the car, puts it in drive and lets the rear wheel spin the gas tank. He then empties the tank of all the bolts and the chain and the rust and puts a couple of gallons of muriatic acid in the tank. Tank comes out almost perfectly clean.

I want to clean the tank on my New Yorker but I don't know if I could do this process. What's the best way; take it to a mechanic or a radiator shop? How much should I expect to pay? Thanks Paul

 

[MoparMike]

Depending on how dirty/rusty your tank is, there is another option. Mix up 5 gallons of HOT water with a liberal amount 9f dawn dish soap. Get a carton/tube/box of BB's and put them in the tank with the soap. Shake, rock agitate the tank for as long as you feel is necessary. Dump it out over a piece of screen or a strainer to catch the BB's. Rinse it out good. Not clean? Do it as many times as necessary. Satisfied with how it looks. Let it set for a couple of days to dry out and reinstall it.

 

[Snotty]

Take it to a radiator shop. They can hot tank it. They drill a small hole in a corner for drainage, then weld it up when finished. Works great!

 

[CBODY67]

OR . . . you can send it to Gastank Renu and let them work their magic on it. Separating the halves, cleaning, and welding it all back together again, with the end result being a "new" tank assy. Shipping can get expensive as the basic service used to be over $500.00 USD about 20 years ago.

Otherwise, find a good radiator shop to do their deal on it.

CBODY67

 

[413]

A new tank is much cheaper and easier. Ready to go OOTB

 

[Big_John]

IMHO, it would be worth pricing a new tank. Cost to have it professionally cleaned might exceed new.

The real question is how dirty is your tank? Does it really need to be cleaned?

 

[spstan]

A new tank is much cheaper and easier. Ready to go OOTB

A new tank is much cheaper and easier. Ready to go OOTB

What is OOTB? Paul

 

[Big_John]

What is OOTB? Paul

Out of the box.

 

[carguy300]

So, where, who is a good source for an after market, close to original? This is going to be my next project for my 68 300.

 

[Just Carbs]

New when possible.

 

[Snotty]

Here's where I bought the one for my '70. (I had the one for the Gremlin cleaned at the Radiator Shop as no one made them.)

1968 CHRYSLER 300 7.2L 440cid V8 Fuel Tank | Shop Now at RockAuto

Fit and works great!

 

[CBODY67]

Rock Auto and Van's usually have the best pricing. Van's used to include free shipping, too.

Everybody uses the Spectra Premium part numbers on their own, so I suspect that's who the manufacturer is, just Spectra gets premium pricing for what they sell retail. BTAIM So shop around for the best total deal.

IF anybody also orders the "matching" sending unit, BEFORE you put the new sending unit in, compare the bends of the swing arm FIRST. DO NOT trust that the new unit will read correctly with the arm that comes on it. OR re-use the original unit, with a new seal AND fuel line clamp (to Chrysler specs, as it is also the ground for the sending unit to the metal fuel line), after cleaning it up some.

CBODY67

 

[MoPar~Man]

I bought a new tank for my '67 Monaco from Vans last year, they were "on sale", $240 plus shipping. Shipping to Michigan was I think $50. It seems to be identical to my original from eye-balling it next to each other and with a tape measure. I'd imagine your '68 300 would have had the exact same gas tank as my '67 2-door Monaco.

I did clean my original tank with double-strength vinegar (about 3 gallons) and electrolosis (which involved floating long pieces of shiny metal in the vinegar connected to a DC power source and rotating the tank periodically over a period of about a week). The vinegar got warm during this. It was taking about 60 watts based on the power supply readout. It was very clean when I finished, but I also had a few holes from rust pitting that opened up. Very small ones. I was debating if I was going to solder them closed or buy a new tank. I bought a new tank, the price was right. Here in Canada a tank delivered to your door would probably cost double what I ended up paying.

 

[Just Carbs]

Most of these old cars that are still in service will be garaged and remain in one usable piece for many decades. Not just the original intended one-decade Chrysler had in mind. They have climber their last mountain and rest in luxury now.
So, new tank when available.
I don't give it a second thought when my cars get a new available $300 tank.

 

[carguy300]

Sounds like the most sensible way to go is replacing my rusty tank.

 

[Just Carbs]

Sounds like the most sensible way to go is replacing my rusty tank.

Get the one with all the vents, so you can use the fuel filter with three ports just before the carb to return/recycle fuel back to the tank so as to avoid vapor lock.
Four vents? I think.

 

[carguy300]

That was one of wonders, dont know how many vents are on my tank, have not dropped it down yet.

 

[1970FuryConv]

So, where, who is a good source for an after market, close to original? This is going to be my next project for my 68 300.

Your 1968 should be the 2-vent tank
My 1970 Fury is 2-vent. By contrast, my 1971 Fury, 1972 Fury, and 1973 Monaco were 4-vent.

 

[Just Carbs]

Available in no vent, 2 vent, or 4 vent for the 68, and bunches of other C body.

SPECTRA PREMIUM CR20C is a 4-vent job.

 

[carguy300]

I have checked out Spectra tanks, probably the way I will go.