how to free or prevent sticky valves and lifters

[CBODY67]

ANOTHER USE OF 2-STROKE MARINE OIL . . .

Just happened across this in another forum. Not in regards to sticky valves and such, but general cleaning of the combustion chambers and spark plugs, plus alleged increase in fuel economy and better, general operation.

www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/ was the supplied link.

www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91206 was the address when I got there

Advocates the use of Pennzoil Marine Full-Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil 1oz to 5 gallons of gasoline. Mentions of how it cleaned the cyl of carbon and the spark plugs too. Plus increased highway mpg on a TBI V-8.

FWIW,
CBODY67

 

[Mid70's Chrysler Fanatic]

You can always go with either of these as well:

View attachment 600631View attachment 600632

I’m pretty sure that Berryman’s is what I used in reviving my Dodge Caravan that was in storage way too long and didn’t even run when parked. (I had to change the timing belt—and then discovered that the fuel pump was shot.) After hand-cleaning the gas tank, replacing the pump and filter, I used such a product to clean the fuel system. (I may be misremembering the brand.) Van fired right up like nothing bad had ever happened.

 

[SuperDave]

2 stroke or Marvel Mystery oil added to the fuel will only help with the valve guides from sticking, sticking/ticking lifters are treated by the oil. As was stated earlier, it's likely dirty oil, or even clogged lifters (baked on varnish from old, broken down oil or trash). That crap needs to be cleaned, either physically (complete teardown - a last resort) or chemically. They do make an oil "flush" you can add to the oil, don't remember the brand (ask the manager or most experienced counter person at the auto parts counter) or as previously stated, ATF or kerosene.

Definitely get the motor hot before draining the oil before adding your "oil wash", but once you do, please don't drive it, just let it idle for 20 minutes. If it were me, I'd do 2 quarts kerosene and 3 quarts 0w20 oil (non synthetic) or the cheapest, lightest oil I could find. If you don't already have a magnetic oil drain bolt, now is a good time to add one. As that trash is washing out, any metal particles trapped in the varnish can get loose to reek havoc on the bearings & rings and the magnet will capture it. Rev the motor to 2500 and HOLD IT THERE FOR A FEW MINUTES. By now the lifters should have stopped clicking. If so, pull the dipstick and see how much darker the oil is. If your satisfied, drain it all and swap the filter again, drain the oil and refill with your preferred lubricant.

Preventing sticky lifters and valves is religious oil changes and a steady diet of quality fuel. My Chrysler has never seen a drop of ethanol blended gas since I've owned it. My daily driven Dodge Ram 1500 does, and it also gets a bottle of STP fuel treatment (the cheap white bottle sold in 2-packs) every other fill up. It's 20 yrs old and still wearing the original injectors. When I got it, it was hard to start, ran a little rough when cold and got 11mpg. Now it runs better, starts easier and gets 14mpg, 17 on long hwy road trips. I also run 20w50 oil and a quart of Lucas oil additive in both my vehicles and magnetic drain plugs. My DD Dodge doesn't sit long enough for the ethanol to go stale so no additional additives (other than STP) are needed. My Chrysler might sit a whole month between car shows so it gets Prolong fuel stabilizer and a trickle charger on

 

[Milo]

The old timers used ATF added it the oil and it worked 1/2 qt some added 1 qt during oil change

 

[Just Carbs]

Well, if I'm having a lifter problem that doesn't respond to oil additives on the big Chrysler motors, I try to get the lifter out through the holes in the head. If it won't fit, I move it around with a magnet to a hole that it will. If it won't come out of the bore to be serviced and reinstalled so as not to introduce a new lifter to an old cam, I then resort to the total bug juice program.

This is the rigmarole that has works over the decades.

Rotate the cam to get the lifter off its oil intake ring so the trash doesn't get pushed back into the lifter galley.
Remove rocker shaft.
Put a pipe cleaner inside a push rod and use it to collapse the lifter and evacuate/wick the oil out of the lifter with repeated plunging.
Put a washer on the top of the lifter to seal the lifter to the push rod.
Use the push rod to collapse the lifter and pump the lifter full of carb cleaner as you let it up.
Let sit to the limit of your patience. Days is the way to go here.
Drain, fill and wick out the lifter to remove dirty fluid as many times as you have patience for.
Clean valve cover and top of head top.
Reassemble valve train. But not valve cover, yet.
Remove oil, filter and distributor.
Install new oil filter and put in 4 straight quarts of your favorite bug juice cleaner that don't eat seals.
Run the pump though the distributor hole and rotate the motor by hand as needed to expose "each" lifter oil ring intake hole to the galley oil supply until all the lifters flow clean out of the rocker when exercised.
Let sit to limit of patience so as to clean oil pan and filter valley. Weeks works good here.
Drain cleaner.
Use a braided wire with a weight on the end through the drain hole to agitate the now submissive sludge in the bottom of oil pan.
Flush pan with cleaner though drain hole. Repeat as needed.
New oil filter and 4 quarts or less new 10 weight oil.
Run oil pump and rotate motor by hand to flush cleaner from lifters AND crankshaft/rods.
Install distributor, new oil and filter.
Drive car. Repeat rapid oil changes as needed, to be determined by owner, to remove gunk from the motor that's suspended in the oil.
Lots of effort here, but abbreviated effort, abbreviated results.

Run high zinc content oil so as not to wipe vintage flat tappet cam. Mobile 15/50 FULL SYNTHETIC would be one.

Now, having said all that. I have had smashing success with neglected high milage clapped out motors that ran like the rubbish they were and clattered like they were 3 quarts low, while burning 2 quarts every tank of gas and smoking up the intersections at stop signs. And had "some" resemblance of compression left with no crank knocking.
The treatment for that was to fill it with 50/50 varsol/oil, set the timing at 20 ATDC and slow idle (usually hours) at 300 rpm until they smoothed out and shut up. And didn't "visibly" burn oil.

 

[garyh]

Marvel Mystery Oil.

 

[Jack E/NJ]

>> marvel mystery oil works >>

Absolutely! Balanced and complex, this marvelous mysterious red is harmonious, even elegant,
with a clear deep rich garnet color, a pleasant delicate bouquet and a curious lingering finish on the palate when siphoned. It pairs quite well with just about any gasoline and oil.

 

[garyh]

>> marvel mystery oil works >>

Absolutely! Balanced and complex, this marvelous mysterious red is harmonious, even elegant,
with a clear deep rich garnet color, a pleasant delicate bouquet and a curious lingering finish on the palate when siphoned. It pairs quite well with just about any gasoline and oil.

Now i have to find my Wine Glass !! LOL

 

[Rusty Muffler]

>> marvel mystery oil works >>

Absolutely! Balanced and complex, this marvelous mysterious red is harmonious, even elegant,
with a clear deep rich garnet color, a pleasant delicate bouquet and a curious lingering finish on the palate when siphoned. It pairs quite well with just about any gasoline and oil.

Smells like Pepto Bismol

 

[Boydsdodge]

 

[stain]

Valvoline has a new oil called "restore and protect"
Lake Speed JR. does a dive into it on his you tube channel.

Unfortunate, I don't see any 10-30,10-40 available.

 

[Big_John]

That was great! I've been saying it for years that all those additives do is drain your wallet. It's really interesting that he has even proved it would be detrimental to use.

 

[Rusty Muffler]

That was great! I've been saying it for years that all those additives do is drain your wallet. It's really interesting that he has even proved it would be detrimental to use.

Yes, for oil additives only. He was more forgiving about fuel additives. My last resort will be to dump some 1 gallon of lacquer thinner into 10 gallons of gas in the tank for sticky valves. I know for a fact lacquer thinner dissolves varnish on valve stems quickly when I had a motor apart. I can only hope it penetrates to the stems through the fuel system. Scotty Kilmer suggests using it to clean your CAT on more modern cars.

 

[Just Carbs]

Lacquer thinner does cut the varnish off the valve guides. It will clean out the entire intake runners and combustion chamber and rings.

Don't put it in the car's gas tank unless you plan to replace "all" the rubber parts in the fuel system. Also, the fuel pickup sock will clog repeatedly until the tank is clean because the dissolving varnish in the tank is going to end up on the sock faster than the thinner can completely dissolve it. So, the car will have to sit for a period of time for the sock to clean up enough for the fuel to flow again, and you will have to repeatedly reverse flush (blow) the varnish off the sock.

Put the thinner in a "temporary" tank with 9 parts 93 gas to one part lacquer thinner to cut the varnish, and add one quart of TCW3 outboard two stroke oil to the mix to prevent the valve stems from sticking until the stems are clean.
Then drive the car on the temporary tank until the stem side of the valve is clean when viewed through the spark plug hole with your endoscope.

If the valves are stuck bad it's necessary to free them up first.
Remove spark plugs.
Bring each piston to the top.
Remove valve spring.
Remove valve seal.
Place short rubber hose over stem seal mounting post.
Fill hose with straight thinner.
Let soak.
Attach drill chuck without the drill on the valve stem.
Rotate the drill chuck first before moving it up and down. Don't move the drill chuck up and down, yet.
Rotate motor back and forth by hand a few degrees as needed to allow valve to move up and down for cleaning.
Fill hose again, rotate chuck. Repeat as needed until valve is completely free in rotation, up, down and you can hear and fell the valve slamming against the seat when you pull it up.
Rotate piston by hand the few degrees to "TDC" top.
Replace seal and spring. Lock motor and air up cylinder if needed. Don't drop valve.
Attach separate tank with cleaner solution and drive car until all is clean.

Have carb rebuild kit handy.

Reconnect car gas tank and hope the contaminated car tank don't restick the valves, again.

 

[Justin Plant]

That was great! I've been saying it for years that all those additives do is drain your wallet. It's really interesting that he has even proved it would be detrimental to use.

I've used STP since ever. He mentioned it in this video, but I couldn't find where he said or showed what its outcomes were.