Still the dang best thread for power window motor repair!
Thanks Mr. C!!!!
Thanks Mr. C!!!!
How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly
- Thread starter Mr C
- Start date
twostick
Senior Member
I usually share my solution for avoiding bloodshed when dealing with the killer clock spring but missed this one at the time.
Just locate the 3 bolts that hold the motor to the regulator and the drill a 3/8 hole through the inside steel door panel over top of each one. This allows a 1/4 drive socket access to the bolts and because the regulator stays bolted to the door, it doesn't snap shut and cut your arm off when you remove the motor. Takes less time than the FSM method and makes future issues with the motor a 5 minute job to resolve.
Once you replace the interior door panel, all evidence of the unauthorized drilling of holes that cause no harm will be hidden. Lol.
Kevin
Yes i've found that motor,but my ones are works good and i don't want to buy new ones.
And shipping costs to Uk makes them expensive.
Hello
I´m having the same problem, motor turns but delivers no movement to the glass. One of the pucks was broken, I made a new one. Then the tooths are almost completely shot inside where the small gear makes contact. Maybe they act like "fuses" too like the pucks (so I think the nut-job you guys have made is fine). Why else is the metal parts separate and not made from a single piece?
I think I will make some semi rigid fitting there, that moves the window but breaks on over torque. Glue, steel putty or similar.
71NewYorkMan
Member
I am years late to this thread. FWIW- I remember an article from years ago (30+, can't find it now) explaining the two functions of the plastic pucks:
1st- shock absorber for the motor when hitting the "up" and "down" stops.
2nd- "breakaway" should someone or something obstruct the the "up" motion.
I replaced the pucks in both of my cars with 1/2" polyethylene rod.
I had to file the rod section slightly to fit (stock pucks measure 0.485 IN)
15 years of service in one car, 10 in another.
I don't believe this solution provides any "breakaway" functionality, but does allow for a "soft" stop of the window.
Material source link:
McMaster-Carr
Bonus- this also works for the 92-96 F-series trucks that I own! Other applications????
1st- shock absorber for the motor when hitting the "up" and "down" stops.
2nd- "breakaway" should someone or something obstruct the the "up" motion.
I replaced the pucks in both of my cars with 1/2" polyethylene rod.
I had to file the rod section slightly to fit (stock pucks measure 0.485 IN)
15 years of service in one car, 10 in another.
I don't believe this solution provides any "breakaway" functionality, but does allow for a "soft" stop of the window.
Material source link:
McMaster-Carr
Bonus- this also works for the 92-96 F-series trucks that I own! Other applications????
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 28,195
- Reaction score
- 27,423
Had to share that the one motor I fixed using the 1/4” nuts years ago quit working a few days ago. The window quit halfway up but I could still hear the motor click so I took it apart and replaced the nuts with the delrin rollers mentioned above and it’s back in action. I guess the nuts got worn to the point they were causing it to jam? Anyway while I had the door panel off I made some needed repairs to the panel as well as repainted the black parts and started to refinish the wood. Still more to do but I only had a few hours to do it so I had to pick and choose just how much I tackled yesterday.Got them today. Perfect fit!
So... that means the Fords used the same rollers.
These were $6.99 plus shipping for 12 delrin rollers. Nice quality and cheap enough.
(12) Ford Lincoln and Mercury Power Window Motor Gear Delrin REBUILD Bushing Kit
Ghostultramarine
Active Member
I know it’s been 7 years since this thread has been started, but I’m just wondering how everyone’s fixes held up?
I read where the nuts wear too much and need to be replaced? But nothing about the brake line and fuel line nor the Delrin bushings.
I read where the nuts wear too much and need to be replaced? But nothing about the brake line and fuel line nor the Delrin bushings.
TxDon
Well-Known Member
I signed on more than two years ago as my front passenger window doesn't work, but like a whole lot of things I never got around to doing it...
73Coupe
Senior Member
All is working well with the NORS Dorman gears/bushings I installed years ago...and surprisingly, the Cardone motor too.
Mr C
Senior Member
Nuts working fine on all of my rebuilds.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 28,195
- Reaction score
- 27,423
I wore out my first set of nuts….
Seriously I did but I got a lot of use out of them.
Seriously I did but I got a lot of use out of them.
Ghostultramarine
Active Member
The nuts did not work well in mine. They were just too harsh and it seemed there was a bit too much play in them (yes, I used the size (1/4 - 20) as per the original post) and they ended up cracking my gear housing they sit in.
I ended up ordering some delrin bushings off ebay as well as ordering a couple of rebuild kits.
Super glue will glue the plastic gear/bushing housing back together but I don't know how long it would last (perhaps as long as a replacement) but it's such a hassle taking them all apart I think the glued one will just be allocated as a spare.
I ended up ordering some delrin bushings off ebay as well as ordering a couple of rebuild kits.
Super glue will glue the plastic gear/bushing housing back together but I don't know how long it would last (perhaps as long as a replacement) but it's such a hassle taking them all apart I think the glued one will just be allocated as a spare.
KGVJEC
New Member
hi all, newbie to this very informative forum and searching for some guidance. i was searching B body forum but this thread was the best i found. I have a 68 satellite convertible and i am having trouble with the drivers side rear power window. Its stopped about 3 inches down. based on what i read it seems it could be the issue with the "pucks" but i want to take it out and see (motor runs just no movement of the window). but this leads me to my question related to taking the regulator out of the door. is it the four bolts (two bottom, two directly above) pictured by the motor holding it all in? from what i have been reading (thanks bajajoaquin) is 1- hold the window in place. 2- remove regulator (4 bolts?) 3- clamp regulator preventing spring from springing. 4- remove motor and fix if needed. I attached a picture hoping someone could confirm or guide me on the correct way. there isnt much room in there and i dont want to make a mess of it.....but excited to try.... thanks
Ghostultramarine
Active Member
I don't think you're going to get the motor out without the regulator, so you don't have to clamp it until you are about to remove the motor. Unless in your Step 2.5 it is remove both regulator and motor from vehicle and Step 0.5 or 1.5 is to undo the window from the regulator (that's what I've done - and clamped it with a wood clamp so it does not fall down).
*EDIT - Don't listen to me (or read, I guess, as this is typed) - read the threads below - BUT you might not want to drill into your car and make new holes (I really don't - BUT - it's in a place no one will see).
I'll take some photos from the manual on how to remove and clamp and post them for you.
Beautifully clean panel, by the way and I really like the colour.
Last edited:
Ghostultramarine
Active Member
In the mean time check out this thread:
Removing/changing power window motor
and this one:
Removing Rear Window Motor 1970 Chrysler
Removing/changing power window motor
and this one:
Removing Rear Window Motor 1970 Chrysler
Your car will probably have the drive with the springs rather than the pucks. From what I've seen and read, 1974 seems to be the year they changed, but I could be wrong.
Here's how I repaired the motor in my car. Power Window Motor Repair
KGVJEC
New Member
thanks much to the both of you. i read and re-read and then look again at what i have going on. i was able to access the 3 motor mount screws. i clamped the window and propped it up from inside the door (just to cover my bases). below is what i found. going to clean it up and see what i'm dealing with. definitely shredded.
KGVJEC
New Member
Looks like i have the same type SpitFire had a page back.. anyone know if they still make replacement gears? i havent found a source yet.
Ghostultramarine
Active Member
Sorry, I did not get a notice to this thread and I looked in the book and could not find the same page I am SURE was in there ...
I looked a few times because I'm redoing my passenger window - turns out the "premium oem" replacement kit that included a new metal gear had the gear teeth sheered off ... It's obviously NOT Chrysler quality ...
I went with that one because the new pucks did not fit in the new plastic housing for the pucks (must be JUST a bit smaller on the inside) because my original one broke using the nuts.
Anyway, I have not seen a replacement gear like the one you and Spitfire have. There was the recommendation for just getting a new motor from Summit:
CHRYSLER Dorman 742-301 Dorman Power Window Motors | Summit Racing
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
The pucks are available on eBay from seller dixiepowerwindow
They call them Rollers, these seam pretty universal so you might want to doublecheck. There are other listings.
They have many other parts including complete motors.
Alan
They call them Rollers, these seam pretty universal so you might want to doublecheck. There are other listings.
HEADLIGHT GEAR PLUGS ROLLER PINS for CHRYSLER LEBARON NEW YORKER 1980-1996 | eBay
LEBARON 1980-1995 (ROUND BODY MOTOR ONLY). NEW YORKER 1980-1996 (ROUND BODY MOTOR ONLY). HEADLIGHT MOTOR GEAR ROLLER PLUGS.
www.ebay.com
They have many other parts including complete motors.
Alan
Similar threads
- Locked
