I am sorry but I have replaced my old wiring with new! 1970 - 300

Waggy

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I have finally had it and I have purchase a Painless wiring harness (#10127)for my 1970 Chrysler 300. Every wire that I can, I will replace and then hopefully then the car will not stop in the middle of traffic for no reason!
The problem with the harness and Painless, is there is no instructions on wiring the power windows and the convertible top. Has anyone any ideas? I know on the old set there is a red wire, a relay and a circuit breaker, so I am thinking maybe I need a relay. The new harness has an extra circuit with a breaker in it that I was thinking of trying.
 
you are in for an ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE! painless kits are more for dune buggies and street rods with easy access and routing.. my car did the same thing as yours ..it was the ign switch electrical portion.. replaced it and no more issues.. i kept an EMERGENCY wire with me with alligator clips on each end so i could jump the +battery to the + side of ballast resistor and it would start right up..
 
the wire trick also separates the the two sections of the vehicle electrical system.. if car starts then its the vehicle wiring side... if it doesn't its the engine side.. coil/distributor etc.. simple..
 
I carry one of those too, just make sure it's a heavy gauge wire.
you are in for an ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE! painless kits are more for dune buggies and street rods with easy access and routing.. my car did the same thing as yours ..it was the ign switch electrical portion.. replaced it and no more issues.. i kept an EMERGENCY wire with me with alligator clips on each end so i could jump the +battery to the + side of ballast resistor and it would start right up..
 
like vo said they are great for street rods and even then you have to add this and that. hope you are electrically inclined and capable. jmho
 
The heritage of Painless Wiring is in the street rod side of things. When they started doing that, back then, they were the only ones using OEM quality wire (gauge and insulation type/thickness) and connectors. All GM-Packard Electric. This was good, back then! Usually matched the GM color codes!

In later years, they have branched out into some vehicle-specific harnesses. What they sell, otherwise, is "universal fit" and depends upon the number of circuits in the harness. AND that universal harness is probably what you have.

In the mean time . . . get/download the appropriate Chrysler factory wiring diagram for your vehicle! It's quite good! Just make sure it's for your vehicle!

The Painless Wiring harnesses were NOT designed to completely replace EVERY piece of wire on the vehicle, especially Chrysler vehicles, as their main thrust is typically GM and Ford vehicles. And THAT's why you correctly diagnose where your electrical issues are and repair THAT area rather than tearing up a complete car with new universal-fit wiring. In theory, you determine which circuit on the Painless harness will go where, matching color codes when possible, and then put that circuit to where it should go. Any "branches" will probably have to be wired by YOU.

As mentioned, you have the harnesses inside the passenger compartment. You have the multiple harnesses outside the passenger compartment, which go through the bulkhead connector. Outside, you have the forward lamp harness, the connector harness that goes to the rear lights, the rear light harness, the charging system harness under the hood, the engine harness (engine senders/sensors, distributor, etc.). Once you get it all broken-down into which wire does what and where it goes, it's not space ship mechanics, just pay attention to what you're doing.

I believe you can download a '70 Chrysler parts book at MyMopar.com. With that, you can see the individual harnesses in the illustrations section. That will give you an idea of what goes where and is paired with what components.

ALSO, make sure any harness grounds are in place and functioning! NO matter what! In some cases, when voltage can't find the normal ground, it looks for a ground by back-feeding and finding ground in another place/harness. Make sure all electrons jump where they are supposed to, on cue!

CBODY67
 
The heritage of Painless Wiring is in the street rod side of things. When they started doing that, back then, they were the only ones using OEM quality wire (gauge and insulation type/thickness) and connectors. All GM-Packard Electric. This was good, back then! Usually matched the GM color codes!

In later years, they have branched out into some vehicle-specific harnesses. What they sell, otherwise, is "universal fit" and depends upon the number of circuits in the harness. AND that universal harness is probably what you have.

In the mean time . . . get/download the appropriate Chrysler factory wiring diagram for your vehicle! It's quite good! Just make sure it's for your vehicle!

The Painless Wiring harnesses were NOT designed to completely replace EVERY piece of wire on the vehicle, especially Chrysler vehicles, as their main thrust is typically GM and Ford vehicles. And THAT's why you correctly diagnose where your electrical issues are and repair THAT area rather than tearing up a complete car with new universal-fit wiring. In theory, you determine which circuit on the Painless harness will go where, matching color codes when possible, and then put that circuit to where it should go. Any "branches" will probably have to be wired by YOU.

As mentioned, you have the harnesses inside the passenger compartment. You have the multiple harnesses outside the passenger compartment, which go through the bulkhead connector. Outside, you have the forward lamp harness, the connector harness that goes to the rear lights, the rear light harness, the charging system harness under the hood, the engine harness (engine senders/sensors, distributor, etc.). Once you get it all broken-down into which wire does what and where it goes, it's not space ship mechanics, just pay attention to what you're doing.

I believe you can download a '70 Chrysler parts book at MyMopar.com. With that, you can see the individual harnesses in the illustrations section. That will give you an idea of what goes where and is paired with what components.

ALSO, make sure any harness grounds are in place and functioning! NO matter what! In some cases, when voltage can't find the normal ground, it looks for a ground by back-feeding and finding ground in another place/harness. Make sure all electrons jump where they are supposed to, on cue!

CBODY67
 
Well I have started and as warned, Painless is far from painless! They talk the good talk, but they really have no idea about Mopars! They could not supply me with a wiring diagram of the harness, any information on wiring a 2 wire temperature sender nor a 1 wire brake switch! Nothing on power windows nor power roof! They did ship fast!
 
Honestly before you start being stupid (trust me I've been there), return the harness and spend the money on having someone rebuild the harness you have. There are a couple people who do this and utilize your factory harness ends. This way it truly is suited to the options you have. I am doing this for my 1970 300 Hurst. For the dash harness it was around 500.00 if I remember right. By the time you figure it out, and the countless parts you may burn out and have to replace, you will come out money ahead.
 
Honestly before you start being stupid (trust me I've been there), return the harness and spend the money on having someone rebuild the harness you have. There are a couple people who do this and utilize your factory harness ends. This way it truly is suited to the options you have. I am doing this for my 1970 300 Hurst. For the dash harness it was around 500.00 if I remember right. By the time you figure it out, and the countless parts you may burn out and have to replace, you will come out money ahead.
These guys make BRAND NEW Chrysler wiring harnesses, great guys to work with, AND many members on this site have used them.
Reproduction Wiring Harnesses for America's Muscle Cars
 
Honestly before you start being stupid (trust me I've been there), return the harness and spend the money on having someone rebuild the harness you have. There are a couple people who do this and utilize your factory harness ends. This way it truly is suited to the options you have. I am doing this for my 1970 300 Hurst. For the dash harness it was around 500.00 if I remember right. By the time you figure it out, and the countless parts you may burn out and have to replace, you will come out money ahead.
i agree 100 percent. plus when you sell the car to the next poor bastard because the wiring is all ****** up he wont be scratching his head swearing at you.
 
No need to diminish somebody else's ownership experience due to "quick fix" wiring repair. I know, that's not the intent (a quick fix), but in some cases, that's how it later is perceived by others. In some cases, best to turn the vehicle as "More than I desired to get into" rather than start something that will need to be done better by others. NO intent to disparage what you're trying to do or have done, just the reality I have seen several times . . . especially with Chrysler products.

As for what Painless sells, they used to have TWO main harnesses to build from. One had more "circuits" than the other one. What the user does with those "circuits" happens at the user's side of things. Following color codes (GM as I believe they used to be) is important, but they probably will NOT match Chrysler circuit color codes. So, that might translate to the perceived "no help" situation. They might have some specific-application products, but I don't believe those major harness products could ever qualify as such.

IF you don't have a factory service manual for that specific model year C-body Chrysler, GET ONE. Look at it closely to see what is what and connects to what other circuit, on both sides of the fuse block firewall connector. And, as much as "new products" might be desired, sometimes a non-molested salvage yard harness might be a better option.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
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