I could use your help?

[jake]

I can not get my back brakes to bite. Brand new everything on the rear wheels. Master is bleed, pumped awhole can of fluid through the lines, watched the rear cylinders push out when the wife pushes on the pedal. Adjusted the star so there is alittle drag. When the car is not running, I can spin the back wheel and tell the wife to push the brakes, it grabs, as soon as I start the car and put it into drive, it will not brake. Any help would be great, I am about to set it on fire soon.

 

[commando1]

Power brakes? Yes?

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[jake]

Brake booster is brand new.

 

[commando1]

When the wheels are spinning while off the ground, even the most poorly adjusted brakes will grab the wheel yet while rolling wouldn't do crap in stopping the car.
Also, way too many "new" boosters are defective especially if they are Cardones.

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[Wollfen]

What year is the car? does it have an adjustable pressure valve feeding the rear brakes? Is the brass block feeding the rear brake line maybe got crap in it? I'm just throwing some suggestions out there.

 

[jake]

Its a 64 dodge, discs up front and drums in back. The booster is good, no doubt there. Is there a lead, lag brake shoe. Meaning does one grab more then the other.

 

[Mr C]

Spongy pedal? Any indications of air in the system (despite the extensive bleeding.)?

 

[jake]

No, the pedal is firm. I roughed up the new drum also to get the film off. I have a manual proportioning valve, that is wide open also.

 

[commando1]

Get it up to speed in a safe area and hit the E-brake.

 

[KcImperial]

How solid is the pedal and how low does it go while engine stopped vs. engine running?

Is this a new disc brake conversion? Could be an undersized master cylinder

 

[Wollfen]

Hmm, the manual proportioning valve, does it allow more pressure when wide open or less pressure when wide open? I know it may seem the opening it up gives more pressure but sometimes its the opposite. personally i think you should screw it in and try it, heck its a simple thing and you will find out quick whether it changes anything or not. Always try the simple things first.

 

[commando1]

You won't know if the rear brakes themselves are working until you get up to speed and try and stop it with the e-brake.
Not doing that first you're just shooting in the dark.

 

[polara71]

for that matter he wouldn't have to take it to speed, he could set the emergency brake and place it in drive and give it a little gas..... NO?

 

[commando1]

Perhaps.

 

[polara71]

Well that will happen if he did what you suggest, taking it up to speed. In the driveway is a bit easier to overcome, besides, he has front brakes.


ops:

 

[jake]

E brake works great. Rear end is in the air. When in drive and press e brake the wheels stop hard. The manual prop valve is wide open to the rear with the valve all the way in. Just in case I have tried it both in and out. I put two different Masters on just in case and they both do exactly the same thing. They are both disc/drum master. The pads that I bought have one that is thinner and one thicker on both sides. Does that matter. Thicker one on the e brake side? Wheel cylinders, I assume could go on either side.

 

[commando1]

OK. Brakes fully functional. Check.
Now, lets work our way forward.
Brake lines. They shot their wad when you bled them so they are clear. Brake lines. Check.
Moving forward. Proportioning valve. Bypass it entirely. See what happens.

 

[65sporty]

thicker shoe to the rear of car. is the friction material the same length? the shoe towards the front would have the shorter shoe if not the same. did you have the drum diameter ck'd, you may have to ck the actual hyd pressure

 

[jake]

I just saw something on a different site stating that there is a leading shoe and trailing shoe for the rear drums. Any truth to that?

 

[jake]

I am going to check that right now!