I pulled the trigger on 2019 Scat Pack Charger
- Thread starter 1978 NYB
- Start date
I just ordered Carven 5" black exhaust tips and a Vicrez diffuser for it.
I was surprised to get a call from my Dodge dealer with an update on my Scat Pack warranty repair for the blower motor howling. They said they got the problem figured out and had to order a new blower motor and they would have it the next day. Not hard to figure out when it was making that much noise. You could here the blower motor howling even outside the car. I don't know how big of a job it is to replace the blower motor. I'm hoping it is easy and quick access. The less my car is taken apart the better.
Do you have a catch can on your 6.4L yet? I would highly recommend one to prevent your intake manifold, throttle body and exhaust valves from getting all gummed up from the blow by that these engines produce.
The blower motor replacement must of been an easy job to replace. The dealer called me and said I can pick up the Scat Pack anytime after 11AM today.
I was looking at them but was concerned about potential warranty issues. Did your dealer notice it when they were troubleshooting your blower motor?
They all know better. A catch can will not void any warranty. I'm surprised that Mopar hasn't added them by now. I guess the few pennies it would take to buy millions of them is too much of a cost. I've had mine in for 3 oil changes and the blower motor so far. I have a bunch of non factory stuff on it already.
I also have the Billet Technology engine dress up kit on it.
I also added the ZL1 Addons lift pad kit too. If you haven't figured it out yet.... it is difficult to Jack the car up. The lift point is the pinch joint and you'll just crush that area using a floor Jack. You will need this kit for the front end. The rear has pads that you can jack up.
I also added the ZL1 Addons lift pad kit too. If you haven't figured it out yet.... it is difficult to Jack the car up. The lift point is the pinch joint and you'll just crush that area using a floor Jack. You will need this kit for the front end. The rear has pads that you can jack up.
The pad goes over the lift pad and there are 2 set screws that you tighten to keep them tight on the pinch joint.
Last edited:
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
$53 for something that shouldn't be so crappy in this day and age? I folded one of the rear points, they are ****. Why in the hell haven't they come up with a solution that is solid and works? I can't understand it. I can't spend $53 on that simple an item, I can probably make my own. Thanks for the idea!
It only took them 10 minutes to replace the blower motor. Access in the engine compartment. Not like a Formal where you have to take half the car apart to replace the blower motor.
The original blower motor was defective since day 1. I cant even hear the new blower motor even cranked all the way up. The defective blower motor sounded like a chainsaw yesterday. It was loud!!!
The original blower motor was defective since day 1. I cant even hear the new blower motor even cranked all the way up. The defective blower motor sounded like a chainsaw yesterday. It was loud!!!
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
Should be SRT damn it.
sixpkrt
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The ZL1 Addons lift kit will definitely make jacking from the side easier and will save the rocker panel from getting crushed if the floor jack isn't lined up properly.
The placement of the lift kit for your Charger at the pinch weld is where I usually place the jack stand.
Even with a low clearance floor jack, I still need to drive my 2013 300 onto some short 2x6 wood blocks before I go in from the front of the car with the jack to lift it up. I will place the jack on the back of the rear stub frame, just in front of the catalytic converter (1:09 in the video), just outside of where the splash shield that covers the oil drain plug is located. (in the video the splash shield has already been removed)
Going through all these steps just to lift my car is a PITA, but the reason for going in from the front with the floor jack is because, if going in from the side I'd need to find another place to put the jack stand under the car to support it.
I'll need to look at the lift points and jack stand placement choices next time I get under the car.
BTW...Diggin' all the upgrades you've been doing on your Scat Pack.
The placement of the lift kit for your Charger at the pinch weld is where I usually place the jack stand.
Even with a low clearance floor jack, I still need to drive my 2013 300 onto some short 2x6 wood blocks before I go in from the front of the car with the jack to lift it up. I will place the jack on the back of the rear stub frame, just in front of the catalytic converter (1:09 in the video), just outside of where the splash shield that covers the oil drain plug is located. (in the video the splash shield has already been removed)
Going through all these steps just to lift my car is a PITA, but the reason for going in from the front with the floor jack is because, if going in from the side I'd need to find another place to put the jack stand under the car to support it.
I'll need to look at the lift points and jack stand placement choices next time I get under the car.
BTW...Diggin' all the upgrades you've been doing on your Scat Pack.
sixpkrt
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2013
- Messages
- 2,363
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- 7,188
I just noticed I became a "Senior Member" with that last post
The ZL1 Addons lift kit will definitely make jacking from the side easier and will save the rocker panel from getting crushed if the floor jack isn't lined up properly.
The placement of the lift kit for your Charger at the pinch weld is where I usually place the jack stand.
Even with a low clearance floor jack, I still need to drive my 2013 300 onto some short 2x6 wood blocks before I go in from the front of the car with the jack to lift it up. I will place the jack on the back of the rear stub frame, just in front of the catalytic converter (1:09 in the video), just outside of where the splash shield that covers the oil drain plug is located. (in the video the splash shield has already been removed)
Going through all these steps just to lift my car is a PITA, but the reason for going in from the front with the floor jack is because, if going in from the side I'd need to find another place to put the jack stand under the car to support it.
I'll need to look at the lift points and jack stand placement choices next time I get under the car.
BTW...Diggin' all the upgrades you've been doing on your Scat Pack.
I'm having problems rolling up on a drive on lift with hitting the splitter. Nothing easy on these cars...
This diagram should be exactly the same for a 300.
I bought a BendPak QuickJack, mostly because I'm getting too damn old to crawl around under cars anymore. It gets the car up high enough for my mechanics stool. I added the pinch weld blocks also.
If I had a garage.....
I would got one of those quick Jack's.
Those are nice!
I would got one of those quick Jack's.
Those are nice!
World's fastest Demon
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