I'm so confused

[Reece Stephens]

*it was in fact the ammeter, I have bypassed it temporarily and will be wiring in a new set of gauges than you for the helpful tips* I have a 1967 Chrysler Newport Custom, and it has no power past the dash. I've gone through all my grounds, all my connections, and fuses, I've put a test light on all the connectors and fusible links and its confusing me more than its helping. I have power to the starter relay, the ballast resistor, through the bulkhead and to the voltage gauge in the dash. I don't have power to anything else, but if I jump the relay the engine will crank but not fire. I'm at a loss and wondered if anyone else had the same issue and how to fix it.

 

[cbarge]

Do this and get back to me..
Underhood Ammeter Bypass
I am suspecting the ammeter gauge took a dump

 

[57fury440]

When you jumped the relay was the ignition key in the start position? Do you have headlights, etc. or is it just the dash not working?

 

[James Romano]

Do you have voltage passed the ammeter. Unless you've swapped the gauge yourself, or know that it was swapped before you bought it, it's still an ammeter. All the power of the entire car goes into that meter, then back out to the starter relay.

Sounds like the ammeter crapped out and is holding everything back.
Do this first ...bypass the ammeter. Get some 10 gauge wire and do the under hood ammeter bypass.

 

[Reece Stephens]

Yes, I had the key in the on position. As for lights and such, not a single light works on the entire car

 

[James Romano]

Lol... Cbarge is faster then me!!

 

[cbarge]

Yes, I had the key in the on position. As for lights and such, not a single light works on the entire car

yep. Ammeter gauge took a crap.
Do the bypass and drive on

 

[cbarge]

Lol... Cbarge is faster then me!!

 

[James Romano]

When you pull out your instrument panel... disconnect the battery first... Then remove both leads to the ammeter, temp bolt them together and tape. Now see if you have power

 

[cbarge]

When you pull out your instrument panel... disconnect the battery first... Then remove both leads to the ammeter, temp bolt them together and tape. Now see if you have power

He can pull the dash if he wants but really required just to get mobile.
The underhood bypass is a short cut where dash pulling is not needed--but an option when bypassing the bulkhead connector

 

[James Romano]

He can pull the dash if he wants but really required just to get mobile.
The underhood bypass is a short cut where dash pulling is not needed--but an option when bypassing the bulkhead connector

True ..I forgot it will flow right from that spot.

That other member had that issue last week and that got him home

 

[Reece Stephens]

yep. Ammeter gauge took a crap.
Do the bypass and drive on

Working on that, but now driver door is jammed shut

 

[413]

Did we forget about the fusible link? It’s at the starter relay power wire. That’s before the amp meter.

 

[mr. fix it]

Working on that, but now driver door is jammed shut

 

[Big_John]

Before you do start adding any extra wires, or doing the "bypass", find out what the problem is. You may make things worse.

 

[Reece Stephens]

Do this and get back to me..
Underhood Ammeter Bypass
I am suspecting the ammeter gauge took a dump

This did fix the issue thank you

 

[Big_John]

This did fix the issue thank you

I wouldn't say it fixed it.

Here's how it works, the battery power goes up to the starter relay then it goes through a fusible link to the bulkhead connector. From the connector, it goes up to the ammeter. It flows through the ammeter to a splice that powers everything and then goes back through the bulkhead connector to charge the battery.

The "ammeter bypass" is nice that it splits the power off before it goes through the bulkhead connector and lets the alternator charge the battery without going through the bulkhead connectors and the splices. That takes some of the electrical load off the connectors and power wires under the dash.

What you now have is the power is now coming back through the second bulkhead connection. At first blush, yea, everything works, but the first connection isn't working. To take full advantage of the bypass, you really need to make that first connection work again.

My bet is on the fusible link... The real way to test it is with a voltage drop test. Because it can be "on the edge" of burning, it can still show 12 volts, but it won't let any current through it.

I have posted this before and it usually gets ignored, but I'm stubborn.





I would disconnect your new wiring and test the voltage drop from the + battery connection to the both sides of the fusible link. If that was low, I'd go up behind the dash and check both sides of the ammeter. Correct what's wrong and you can do the "bypass" if you like.

Yea, I suppose you could leave it as is, but if you are having a problem at one end of the wiring, you'll probably be having it at the other end eventually.

This isn't saying the bypass is a bad idea, I'm just the guy that stands up and says "fix it right before you modify" when it comes to anything.

 

[cbarge]

This isn't saying the bypass is a bad idea, I'm just the guy that stands up and says "fix it right before you modify" when it comes to anything.

I agree.
Just wanted to help the guy to get back up and running.
Cars I fixed in the past had a reason for blowing the link or frying the gauge which did get addressed.

 

[CBODY67]

For general principles, wire brush-clean the battery terminals and their cable connections. My one experience was when I installed the MP electronic ignition kit. Fired right off, killed it, buton the fifth consequtive start attempt, nothing. Voltage everywhere, but no start. THEN I noticed a thin layer of gunk between the + cable end and the + terminal. Cleaner it off and it started. Just a thin enough layer to let voltage pass, but not "amps", apparently.

Also check the "big red wire" that goes to the ignition switch, from the bulkhead connector. Might need the female connector crimped a bit so it's snug when it's connected.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[James Romano]

For general principles, wire brush-clean the battery terminals and their cable connections. My one experience was when I installed the MP electronic ignition kit. Fired right off, killed it, buton the fifth consequtive start attempt, nothing. Voltage everywhere, but no start. THEN I noticed a thin layer of gunk between the + cable end and the + terminal. Cleaner it off and it started. Just a thin enough layer to let voltage pass, but not "amps", apparently.

Also check the "big red wire" that goes to the ignition switch, from the bulkhead connector. Might need the female connector crimped a bit so it's snug when it's connected.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

That's the same misconception of dielectric grease... some seem to think it's OK so slather it all over the connector thinking it will prevent rust... meanwhile it's non-conductive. Connectors need to be spotless clean for a minimum resistance connection.

 

[Big_John]

That's the same misconception of dielectric grease... some seem to think it's OK so slather it all over the connector thinking it will prevent rust... meanwhile it's non-conductive. Connectors need to be spotless clean for a minimum resistance connection.

Thank you! This is another one of those things that is soooooo misunderstood in the automotive world. Dielectric means it's an insulator. I cringe every time I see people slathering it on everything.

Dielectric | physics