Isolated Rubber Steering Column Couplers

saforwardlook

Old Man with a Hat
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Since the "hockey pucks" are no longer available anywhere that I am aware of, what are you guys doing to replace couplers that are worn out these days if you want to keep the "isolated" feature intact? Is there a "Help" generic part or a GM part that can be made to work with the Chrysler columns for the 1970 and up fuselage Chyslers at least? I have not seen this discussed recently at least.

For example, I was wondering whether anyone has tried to stack a couple of these these type of generic part together and maybe sleeve the holes and use the factory bolts/nuts to replicate the original chrysler coupler:

Borgeson 000941 Steering Shaft Coupler-Rubber Disk Replacement | eBay

This listing says it can work for "many Dodges" as well as GM models but the fuselage cars have 2.75" couplers and these are 3.75", so that these specifically won't work, but are there others possibly that are the smaller diameter that anyone has run across? Or other options?

s-l500.jpg
 
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I made mine from a side wall of a tire. It easier to work with when its frozen .
 
I have some bulk material of this reinforced rubber; it's about 1/4" thick I believe. Very tough to cut, but useful when needed and I have successfully punched holes through it.
 
Google for "mtc vr599". I saw and saved this name a while ago, but haven't found any measurements yet.

Ok, never mind, it's to small.
60mm x 60mm x 33mm
HOLE SIZE 5/16"
HOLE DISTANCE 37mm CENTRE TO CENTRE.
 
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i thought that this forum discovered the land rover / jaguar ones fit right in ?

am i trippin?

$.02

- saylor
 
i thought that this forum discovered the land rover / jaguar ones fit right in ?

am i trippin?

$.02

- saylor
Unfortunately I missed that. Do you remember which Year Land Rover or do you even have a part number?
 
Since the "hockey pucks" are no longer available anywhere that I am aware of, what are you guys doing to replace couplers that are worn out these days if you want to keep the "isolated" feature intact? Is there a "Help" generic part or a GM part that can be made to work with the Chrysler columns for the 1970 and up fuselage Chyslers at least? I have not seen this discussed recently at least.

For example, I was wondering whether anyone has tried to stack a couple of these these type of generic part together and maybe sleeve the holes and use the factory bolts/nuts to replicate the original chrysler coupler:

s-l500.jpg

I used one of the smaller diameter Dorman/Help disks and the included hardware when mine broke turning a corner. It's very similar to the picture you posted and you can get one at any auto parts store. Two were too thick, so I just used one. There was enough play in the coupler cup to close the gap. It never gave me any trouble and is still going with the new owner 6+ years later.
 
Since the "hockey pucks" are no longer available anywhere that I am aware of, what are you guys doing to replace couplers that are worn out these days if you want to keep the "isolated" feature intact? Is there a "Help" generic part or a GM part that can be made to work with the Chrysler columns for the 1970 and up fuselage Chyslers at least? I have not seen this discussed recently at least.

For example, I was wondering whether anyone has tried to stack a couple of these these type of generic part together and maybe sleeve the holes and use the factory bolts/nuts to replicate the original chrysler coupler:

Borgeson 000941 Steering Shaft Coupler-Rubber Disk Replacement | eBay

This listing says it can work for "many Dodges" as well as GM models but the fuselage cars have 2.75" couplers and these are 3.75", so that these specifically won't work, but are there others possibly that are the smaller diameter that anyone has run across? Or other options?

s-l500.jpg
 
I have the replacement coupler, but can't figure out how to take the old one apart. I took out a small cotterpin that was preventing the 1/2" nut from coming loose, but how to I get to the other end of the shaft? The round heat shield thing seems to be covering up the other end of the bolt I need to hold still while I take off the nuts?
 
Manual is useless. they show a picture, but no words to describe how to remove?
 
It's an allen head bolt going through the coupler that's recessed into the coupler.
 
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