Journey Begins 67' Fury

I'm not making this up. trust me this guy is on the forum, ask other.
For Sale - Refurbished distributors
I believe you, I did a little searching on it the other day. As long as the engine isn't toast, at least rebuildable (hoping it doesn't need that.) I'll go with a 4 barrel carb, I'll get holley stuff, new intake ect. This is later on when I'm working on getting it to start and idle properly after redoing the fuel system. A 2 barrel on a 383 just doesn't make sense to me. And I'd rather spend money on this than a disk conversion kit, as long as the drums perform well. I'll have to see if my current distributor is working. Parts come in this weekend, so I'll know soon.
 
As someone who owns a 68 Plymouth Fury Sport Suburban wagon and has done the front disc brake conversion using 1973 Plymouth Fury Custom Suburban parts i want to say it was one of the best improvements i have done to the wagon. I used all the parts from a donor car including the proportioning valve & front lines, spindles & lower control arms. I did however use the power disc brake booster from a 65-68 c-body(little hard to find) because the one from the donor was too big & would not fit.

The second improvement i made was replacing the worn steering box with a rebuilt unit from Steer & Gear (614-231-4064 contact Carmine) they manufacture their own gears inhouse to tighter tolerance's than factory get the modern feel rebuild the steering is very tight and able to drive onehanded now with no wandering get their rebuilt pitman arm also. Total cost was $600.00 with core shipped and they have them in stock for immediate shipping. Firm Feel was a 4 month wait & a couple hundred dollars more.
Welcome to the forum great bunch of knowledge people here.
 
Firm Feel was a 4 month wait & a couple hundred dollars more.
Can confirm, took about 3 months for mine. Was an agonising wait only alleviated by the fact that I had other stuff on the car I could work on at the same time. I'm probably just being impatient though...good things take time.
 
You're spot on about not running off the cars tank. The old fuel can turn into a turpentine like fluid that will work itself into the valve guides causing stuck valves, bent push rods or worse.
 
Looks like water in corrosion in two cylinders. I don't have a scope. cold compression on 2 and 3 is 25, 6 was 75. Probably looking at a full rebuild. Might pick up a scope this weekend or just pull the left head off to inspect, I'm betting a blown head gasket. Not factory numbering, it's was just for my notes for this.

Well if I have to rebuild anyone got any thoughts on what to do? I'd like to throw in some aggressive-ish cams to get that rumble idle. Stroker?

I was kind of expecting this honestly, if it sat for 30 years then there was a reason.

Any engine builders out there got some recommendations? Anyone in the central/north florida area?

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Hi, you have the firing order all messed up, you have a service manual ? correct order 18436572 looking right to left #1 is by PS pump, right side is 1357, left side 2468
 
Hi, you have the firing order all messed up, you have a service manual ? correct order 18436572 looking right to left #1 is by PS pump, right side is 1357, left side 2468
Thanks, I know the order isn't right. I just labelled it like this so I didn't forget where I took stuff from and where to put it back. I'm not worried about that. More concerned about the compression and the corrosion.
 
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