Leaded fuel replacement options

Jakter said:
Been driving my old cars on unleaded, before the addition of ethanol, and unleaded with the addition of ethanol, can't even imagine the amount of miles driven on unleaded and have never experienced any valve-valve seat problems.
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43,000 miles on my '70 440 without it. Plus how many miles the previous owner put on of the 61,000 that were on the car when I bought it.
 
Big_John said:
I don't know what the difference would be... So I googled it and came up with this: Marine 2 Stroke Oil VS 2 Stroke Oil: (Explained)

It looks to me like the main difference is the marine oil is an ashless oil. From reading bits from other sources, I believe that means no zinc in the oil and it translates to less deposits on valves and combustion chambers. It also looks like instead of using regular 2 cycle oil to replace marine 2 cycle oil, it wouldn't be a bad idea to use the marine oil in your chain saw etc. That's a bit of speculation on my part.
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When I started buying the Marine 2 Stroke to add to my gas 4 or 5 years ago I decided to use my chainsaws and weedeaterr as well. I've had no issues and I cut close to 20 full cord of wood a year for heating. I figured if the marine 2 stroke was good enough for expensive boat motors it should work for a chainsaw as well. I've had no issues.
 
live4theking said:
When I started buying the Marine 2 Stroke to add to my gas 4 or 5 years ago I decided to use my chainsaws and weedeaterr as well. I've had no issues and I cut close to 20 full cord of wood a year for heating. I figured if the marine 2 stroke was good enough for expensive boat motors it should work for a chainsaw as well. I've had no issues.
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Yep, it sounds to me like it would be a better, although probably more expensive option.

I don't have anything 2 cycle any more.... My little chain saw is electric because all I do is a little trimming and the weed eater comes on a trailer with the guy that mows the lawn. LOL.
 
I too have a 66 Fury (Sport) with a 383. I run straight 91 octane non oxy in mine with no problems. was told that if you don't drive it like more than a few thousand miles a year that this combo is just fine. Just my humble opinion FWIW.
 
I put a bunch of daily-driver miles on a 68 318, Started at 110k, it was starting to run rough around 180k.
Did it need a valve job? Possibly, but I didn't diagnose it, I just put in a different engine.
Most of it was 70mph highway miles.

For the first couple years I added an additive and/or a high-lead avgas a buddy would get at his airport.
After a few years, I stopped and just ran pump gas.

Haven't put as many miles on other engines, but no valve issues with them (pump gas only).

My opinion is that it's not really necessary for the mileage/usage most of us are going to do.
 
I have used some ATF and it also helps prevent vapor lock
 
TCW-3 ashless 2-stroke oil is by far your Best & cheapest option. We run it in Everything that receives regular pump gas. We race & tune for a living...
You buy the 1 gallon jugs from WallyWorld then fill up water bottles & toss in the trunk. The lead was used as a lubricant which is what the TCW-3. You'll get a noticeable increase in MPG in Anything you add it to. The best starting point ratio is 1oz of oil to every 4 gallons of fuel. We've been doing this for 22 Year's now... ANYONE that works on 2 strokes will tell ya when you open the engine up they are immaculately Clean inside.
WHY = The oil
I travel to tune so I get rental car's alot to drive to the track or wherever... And I'll gain 1.5-2mpg on a even a 2023.
Anyone speaking negatively on TCW-3 is clearly confused, doesn't work at a machine shop, & or hasn't used it. It's just like all the folks that talk about nitrous negatively. YET They've Never even EVER had a kit on Anything or experienced any problems first hand...
Besides the MPG benefit you'll see a good improvement on your UOA (used oil analysis) which proves it Greatly benefits friction loss & wear on metals.
Your 2nd best option is a additive made by RedLine Racing Oil & is their Lead Substitute additive. This is a chemically based additive that works much better & more similar to lubricate then the $6 bottle of "lead substitute" from AutoZone in the gray bottles.
We order it in case format from Summit which makes it like $13-14 a bottle

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Grab a 5-gallon gas can and drive to to the closest small airport and buy some 100 octane low lead aviation gasoline (Avgas 100LL). Same airports have self serve with a credit card, others you pay and they drive the fuel truck to you. They won't fill your vehicle. 100LL has an octane rating of 100.

Low lead: The "LL" in 100LL stands for "Low Lead". Regulations limit the amount of lead in 100LL to 0.56 grams per liter. NOTE: AV Low Lead is four times the lead content of what was in gas station gas from the 60's and 70's. So, don't add more than 5-gallons or you'll foul the plugs.

100LL is the primary fuel for turbocharged aircraft piston engines, and can also be used in smaller engines. It's used in private, commercial, and military aircraft.

Need the higher octane without the lead or ethanol? Most airports also sell UL94, which is a 94 octane unleaded avgas that can be used in place of 100LL.
 
NitrousTuner1 said:
TCW-3 ashless 2-stroke oil is by far your Best & cheapest option. We run it in Everything that receives regular pump gas. We race & tune for a living...
You buy the 1 gallon jugs from WallyWorld then fill up water bottles & toss in the trunk. The lead was used as a lubricant which is what the TCW-3. You'll get a noticeable increase in MPG in Anything you add it to. The best starting point ratio is 1oz of oil to every 4 gallons of fuel. We've been doing this for 22 Year's now... ANYONE that works on 2 strokes will tell ya when you open the engine up they are immaculately Clean inside.
WHY = The oil
I travel to tune so I get rental car's alot to drive to the track or wherever... And I'll gain 1.5-2mpg on a even a 2023.
Anyone speaking negatively on TCW-3 is clearly confused, doesn't work at a machine shop, & or hasn't used it. It's just like all the folks that talk about nitrous negatively. YET They've Never even EVER had a kit on Anything or experienced any problems first hand...
Besides the MPG benefit you'll see a good improvement on your UOA (used oil analysis) which proves it Greatly benefits friction loss & wear on metals.
Your 2nd best option is a additive made by RedLine Racing Oil & is their Lead Substitute additive. This is a chemically based additive that works much better & more similar to lubricate then the $6 bottle of "lead substitute" from AutoZone in the gray bottles.
We order it in case format from Summit which makes it like $13-14 a bottle

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The TCW-3 seems like a great option to.uae as fuel additive. I have a 1967 Dodge Polara with the Mopar 383. Do you know if this also acts to protect non-hardened Valve seats in these older engines?
 
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