Lugnut Nightmare

[Dylan Galvin]

I'm taking the old garbage wheels off the 66 Monaco. Two lugs on the driver front wheel were rusted on badly, somehow much worse than the other three, and would not come off no matter how much WD-40 and wrenching i applied. The nuts are completely destroyed now, and no socket will go on without slippage. I can't weld, so i cant weld a larger nut over it, and have tried to sledgehammer a socket on with no luck. Any other possible solutions you guys have? Tomorrow I'll probably end up going back to the sledgehammer if I don't have any fresh ideas.

 

[Welder guy]

Do you have access to a torch? You can heat them up and try to take them off .

 

[swisherred]

I know its a little late but I just found a single right hand thread on the left rear wheel...all the others were left hand. Possibly your issue?

Otherwise even just some penetrating oil and a propane torch will help. Heat the nut not the bolt.

 

[swisherred]

You could use a cutting wheel to split the nut but you will have to replace the stud after.

 

[Davea Lux]

If all else fails, drill a pilot hole in the center of the wheel stud, gradually increase the drill size until the stud is removed and the lug will fall off.

Dave

 

[polara71]

I know its a little late but I just found a single right hand thread on the left rear wheel...all the others were left hand. Possibly your issue?

Otherwise even just some penetrating oil and a propane torch will help. Heat the nut not the bolt.

I agree, I think this is a leftie rightie issue .

 

[Davea Lux]

FYI WD is a piss poor penetrating oil. Use Break Free or PB Blaster for better results.

Dave

 

[Dylan Galvin]

Thanks! I'll report back late tomorrow.

 

[Davea Lux]

Thanks! I'll report back late tomorrow.

The other method that will work is to drill a small hole in either side of the stuck lug and use a chisel of tapered punch to split the nut. Be careful not to drill too deep to where you damage the drum or rotor.

Dave

 

[Welder guy]

If you can - check the end of the stud and see if there is an L stamped on it . If there is it’s a left handed thread . Just A thought, before you heat the nut up for removal

 

[thrashingcows]

Pick up one of these systems....super handy for when things get sticky.

I have one very similar to this and it sure comes in handy. ;)

 

[FURYGT]

Another option is to remove the front drum or rotor assembly by removing the wheel bearings and then drill out the back of the problematic wheel studs.

 

[TxDon]

I will bet they are left hand threads and will come right off unless you have damaged them. Driver' side only, look for the "L" stamping.

 

[thrashingcows]

Well he did say they were damaged so badly now that a socket will not work on them.

 

[65Fury440]

After you verify you have a RH or LH stud, this tool works well.

 

[livininharrow]

the best method for removing any tight bolt stud nut or seized pipe thread is lots of heat followed by cold water. heat again if necessary and douse with water again. this will break the rust seal and you will then be on your merry way assuming you are turning the wrenches the right way.

 

[Jakter]

Wire brush the exposed threads.
Heat the stud/nut and apply candle wax to the exposed threads.
Do this after you figure out how to get a bite on the lug nuts.
Do not use heat while there is still wet penetrating oil visible because some things like brake cleaner can emit noxious fumes that can hurt you and I'm not sure if PBBlaster and the likes would fall into the same category.

 

[ascari]

Since they're front wheels you may as well just split the nuts, pull the hubs and replace the corroded lugs. Save you some trouble down the road.

 

[polara71]

Apparently we're never gonna know.

 

[Dylan Galvin]

Apparently we're never gonna know.

Hey sorry I haven't updated. Last week of school for the quarter and haven't gotten back to the Monaco since I posted. Hopefully I'll be back at it tonight.