Matching a proper coil to my set up.

[Timmayy]

My set up is this,
1965 Belvedere wagon with a late 70s 360. Mild build, low compression, headers, aluminum intake and Edelbrock 1406 4 barrel.
Moroso 1.82 ohm ballast resistor. As per FURYGTs advice.

Summit Racing™ Billet Electronic Mopar Distributors SUM-851006 for extra durability.​

MA Mopar electronic ignition conversion, orange box from Mancini Racing.

My problem is with the OEM replacement parts lately. It seems that this overseas junk doesn't last. Coil had less than 2 years, fuel pump the same along with other parts. I don't mind paying more for better quality that will last.
What would be a good aftermarket coil for my setup?

 

[Davea Lux]

Go to a u-pull it yard and pull one off a junker. It will outlast any of the junk made in China which is what you get at Auto-Bone or Car-Crap. For your own piece of mind, grab a second used one for a spare. Carter still makes quality pumps and they are readily available. Might also contact Craig@Mobile Parts, a vendor on this site, he probably still has some Mopar OEM coils.

Dave

 

[Gerald Morris]

My set up is this,
1965 Belvedere wagon with a late 70s 360. Mild build, low compression, headers, aluminum intake and Edelbrock 1406 4 barrel.
Moroso 1.82 ohm ballast resistor. As per FURYGTs advice.

Summit Racing™ Billet Electronic Mopar Distributors SUM-851006 for extra durability.​

MA Mopar electronic ignition conversion, orange box from Mancini Racing.

My problem is with the OEM replacement parts lately. It seems that this overseas junk doesn't last. Coil had less than 2 years, fuel pump the same along with other parts. I don't mind paying more for better quality that will last.
What would be a good aftermarket coil for my setup?

You can find NOS coils on eBay, as I have OR, BETTER, get a BRAND NEW AMERICAN MADE COIL:

Amazon product ASIN B005ASY6DE
Taylor Cable still makes good coils in the U.S.A., and I urge you to support all U.S. domestic industry when possible. I use the coil shown above, which, with a primary impedance of .7 ohms cold, works very nicely with an OEM impedance ballast on my breaker point ignition. Since you use an ECM, you might be alright with that high impedance Moroso ballast, or not. My ballast heats up to about 1.2 ohms, and the coil goes to about 1.6 warm, which makes an EXCELLENT voltage divider warm with coil voltage at ~7.5 V.

This Taylor uses epoxy, not oil for insulation, though Taylor makes plenty oil insulated coils too, if you prefer that for old times sake.

Carter fuel pumps do fine for me and mine, and am running one I bought 4 yrs ago. Stick with them for most purposes.

FWIW, I have a couple junk yard coils also, and these work alright, but are a bit noisy, as is the 60 yr old NOS Delco coil I bought a couple years ago. You should stock up on several coils, so as to NEVER be caught dead without one. I still have my old Taylor coil, which is oil insulated, though after a minor engine fire caused by my aged Stromberg WWC burping last August, that coil got a bit noisy too. I don't like electrical noise, as it can diddle up other instruments, even when decently low pass filtered.

 

[darth_linux]

I went with a Standard "Blue Streak" coil for my "blue" electronic ignition box. Been working great!

 

[Timmayy]

I went with a Standard "Blue Streak" coil for my "blue" electronic ignition box. Been working great!

I bought the Standard coil and ballast resistor from Rockauto. If that combo works good then I will order spares.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I went with a Standard "Blue Streak" coil for my "blue" electronic ignition box. Been working great!

I bought the Standard coil and ballast resistor from Rockauto. If that combo works good then I will order spares.

I have a Standard UC-12 in my ignition coil drawer. It probably is OK, but again, I ran that one the 1st 3 yrs I ran this engine, and went to the Taylor coils thereafter. I also have a No-Name Junker I pulled off a 318 in a '66 Fury, which might be factory original. Both of these fire OK, but are in the "keep for emergency or test case scenario" category/

I was looking around this morning for you guys, and note that in addition to Taylor, Accel and Mallory still produce in-country coils at or near Mopar OEM specs. Many of these are good for either breaker point or capacitive discharge (Mopar ECM) ignitions, often with vendor ballast resistors with them for optimal match. These run from ~ $70 - 200, so they won't break our plastic cards.

This heartens me some, seeing all the cheap asiatic trash on the shelves flooding the market and our hearts' despair. I'm no paytriotard, FAR from it, but am very keen on quality workmanship and opposed to slave labor in all guises. Our C body Mopars were built by men who often were veterans who fought against fascism in Europe and Asia, and paid their UAW dues. They were meant for working folk, built by working folk who didn't need to grovel for worthless college degrees to live. I try to honor this.

 

[Captainfury]

Go to a u-pull it yard and pull one off a junker. It will outlast any of the junk made in China which is what you get at Auto-Bone or Car-Crap. For your own piece of mind, grab a second used one for a spare. Carter still makes quality pumps and they are readily available. Might also contact Craig@Mobile Parts, a vendor on this site, he probably still has some Mopar OEM coils.

Dave

Thanks Dave, that reply was funny. Made my day. I love your terms “Auto bone”, and Car crap”. I replied because my 24 year old son says similar sentiments about parts that we sometimes replace on cars. Just last week when the issue of a new starter motor came up, rather than my suggestion of buying a new one, he wanted me to get the old one overhauled, as it “still has good bits inside, much better than modern ones”.
Cheers mate.